Temp
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Everything posted by Temp
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boiler behaviour,please let me know your thoughts.
Temp replied to Post and beam's topic in Boilers & Hot Water Tanks
Does it ever lock out with just the CH running? Does it only lock out when you call for DHW or is that only when you notice it? -
Self Build Mortgage - 100% timber house and deposits
Temp replied to NJLJ2024's topic in Self Build Mortgages
Land without Planning Permission might be £12-15k per acre but with Planning Permission it might be worth anywhere from £150k to >£1m per acre depending on location and what it has permission for. I would either get drawings done or find photos of a similar size house and see if an estate agent might value the land assuming you can get with Planning Permission for that. If the numbers stack up get proper drawings done for a planning application. Make sure you know about the CIL exemption and what you need to do to get it and keep it before starting any work on site. -
Confused about birds mouth cut dropping ridge height
Temp replied to flanagaj's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Depends where you measure from.. if you measure from the top of the brick work then the wall plate that fits in the birds mouth raises the rafters by its thickness which is about same as the birds mouth. -
boiler behaviour,please let me know your thoughts.
Temp replied to Post and beam's topic in Boilers & Hot Water Tanks
Have I understood the problem... It occurs when the boiler has been delivering 76C water to the rads so it's nice and hot. Then you call for DHW and the thermal mass of the boiler momentarily heats the DHW to 76C (or perhaps a bit less) aided by the boiler flame not modulating down enough. The boiler detects the DHW is too hot and shuts down for safety reasons. Is that what the engineer was saying? I would start a diary with date and time and description eg Date, Time, No HW for shower. Also any call outs and bills. Backdate it if you still have earlier call out bills for same issue. If the spec says the boiler can deliver CH and DHW at certain temperatures and it can't then that sounds like grounds for asking for your money back. At some point you will have to write to the supplier/installer giving them reasonable opportunity to rectify the problem after which you expect a refund or initiate court action. That's what the diary is for. -
I will assume you filed the completion paperwork within 6 months and you still live in it. I've had a look at the regulations here.. 54A &D.. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2014/385/regulation/7/made I don't think b,c,d or e applies so we only need consider a? Para 10 and 11 are irrelevant. There is nothing specifically about HMO that I can see. Eg I don't see why it becoming an HMO means it's not also still a qualifying self build. My guess is they are arguing its no longer a self build covered by 54A(2) because its not all occupied by you. However 54D(c) appears to allow you to let out part of the building just not the whole building. I think I would find yourself a solicitor familiar with the CIL exemption and run this past them pronto.
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I think I would read the wording of the CIL regs carefully and perhaps appeal. As I recall it requires you to remain in occupation but I don't remember it saying anything specifically about changes to the status of the property. I might be wrong but I'm away from my PC and can't look it up right now.
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Over cautious warranty surveyor?
Temp replied to Gaz Bancroft's topic in New House & Structural Warranties
When you remove the hedge it no longer removes water from the soil and you can get heave. Lot depends on the type of clay. In some areas it's deemed to be non-shrinking and no special precautions are required. In others you need deeper foundations, expansion boards to line the trenches or even piles. We had to get a soil condition report done and then input from an SE who said we just needed expansion boards. A house 100 yards away were told they needed piles and they ended up pretty deep and expensive. Can you find out from local builders if they know what type of clay is in your area? -
Cotterill Civils sell pipe and their page says.. https://www.cotterillcivils.co.uk/blogs/guides-to-underground-drainage/top-tips-for-installing-a-culvert-pipe Perhaps see if they have a guide?
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Google found these which I've not read.. Culvert design and operation guide.. https://www.gov.uk/flood-and-coastal-erosion-risk-management-research-reports/culvert-design-and-operation-guide Superceded by.. https://www.ciria.org/ItemDetail?iProductCode=C786&Category=BOOK&WebsiteKey=3f18c87a-d62b-4eca-8ef4-9b09309c1c91 And a page on grants.. https://www.gov.uk/countryside-stewardship-grants/installation-of-piped-culverts-in-ditches-rp6#how-much-will-be-paid The latter says it should "foll8w the manufactures instructions". Perhaps the pipe company can provide info on what coverage etc is needed to meet the weight limit? Perhaps you could do a sketch design that's compatible with the above and then just tell the planners that it's been designed in accordance with the above guidance. Cite a few paragraphs ? Something like that.
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88 new houses near Cambridge to be demolished.
Temp replied to Temp's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Replacement Darwin Green homes ‘will not be built to all of the latest building regulations’ https://www.cambridge-news.co.uk/news/cambridge-news/replacement-darwin-green-homes-will-28850775.amp Cambridge City Council said the developer had confirmed it would not be building the homes to meet new standards for ventilation, conservation of fuel and power, and mitigation of overheating. The developer forced to demolish faulty new build homes at the Darwin Green development will not build the replacement homes to the latest building regulations, Cambridge City Council has said. Councillor Katie Thornburrow, the executive councillor for planning, building control and infrastructure, said the authority is taking legal advice on the issue. Barratt and David Wilson Homes Cambridgeshire began work to demolish the 88 impacted properties - some fully and some partially constructed - at the Darwin Green development on the edge of Cambridge earlier this year. It was revealed in the summer last year that there were problems with the foundations of a number of newly built homes in the second phase of the development. At the time the developer said that a “small number” of houses had foundation issues and said no one had moved into any of the affected properties. It was initially reported that 36 newly built houses were impacted by the issue and needed to be demolished. However, a council report later revealed 88 fully and partially built properties were impacted. Councillor Simon Smith submitted a question to the city council’s planning and transport scrutiny committee this week (March 19), highlighting new building regulations had been introduced. He asked whether the developer had said if it would be building the replacement homes in accordance with the new regulations, which he said provided for “better ventilation, conservation of fuel and power and mitigation of overheating”. Cllr Thornburrow said the developer had told the city council it was not planning to meet these new regulations. She said: “BDW have confirmed that the replacement dwellings will not be built to the new standards for ventilation, conservation of fuel and power, and mitigation of overheating, they will not be built to those standards. 3C Building Control, the council’s shared in-house building control service, are in the process of taking legal advice as to our next steps.” -
Pricing error on Jewson site? Says... Ancon ST1 Type 1 Heavy Duty Wall Tie 200mm Pack of 250 £3.08 inc VAT https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/ancon-staifix-standard-heavy-duty-wall-tie-200mm-l-CIWT0275 They obviously mean per tie but it does say "box of 250" in several places. The page for the longer version doesn't.
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Perhaps tell us more about what you are building and why it needs Planning Permission?
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Dealing with standing water on oversized slab
Temp replied to oliwoodings's topic in Landscaping, Decking & Patios
Perhaps you could cut a few grooves in it to act as drainage channels. Bit like you have on a kitchen draining board. -
Can be at switch if there is a neutral there. Has to go Switched Live to Neutral on the input side to any ballast if there is one..
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If it's got sleeping accommodation it will likely need Building Control Approval anyway.
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How bright is it when it's meant to be off? Hard to tell in the photo. If a dim/medium glow then yes its probably capacitive coupling between live and switched live or similar. A bypass capacitor should sort it. They go in parallel with the light. Only usually need one to fix multiple bulbs on same circuit. If its full or near full brightness then it's possibly a wiring fault of some sort?
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Can I set up my site before building regs approval (Scotland)
Temp replied to Dunc's topic in Building Regulations
Not familiar with Scotland but.. I've heard of people asking the BCO if it's OK to dig (but not fill) the foundation trenches while you wait for approval to start. After all some people go down the Building Notice route rather than Full Plans Approval. -
Mixing wood fibre sarking with PIR in pitched warm roof
Temp replied to DonnaP123's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
OK so the target U value is 0.15. That's an R value of 1/0.15 = 6.7 needed. Wood fiber has a Thermal conductivity = 0.041 W/mK R value of 80mm would be.. = (1/0.041) * 80/1000 = 1.95 So the PIR needs to provide an R of.. 6.7 - 1.95 = 4.75 The Thermal conductivity of PIR is about 0.022 W/mK The thickness in mm you need would be.. T = 4.75 * 0.022 * 1000 = 104.5 mm However I'm not sure it's safe to put any insulation between the rafters without a condensation risk analysis.. The term warm roof has two different meanings that get confused. One refers to the temperature of the loft (I prefer warm loft for this). The other refers to the temperature of the structural members (rafters). If the insulation is entirely above the rafter then we call this a Warm Roof because the rafters are on the warm side of the insulation where condensation cannot form. Conventional roofs have all the insulation between or below the rafters putting them on the cold side. To prevent condensation in this case they must normally be ventilated, typically with a 50mm ventilated void. If you have some insulation above and some between the rafters then this is a hybrid roof frowned on in some quarters. The insulation between the rafters lowers the temperature of parts of the rafter potentially increasing the risk of condensation. Some insulation can be installed between rafters but you really should get a condensation risk analysis done to work out how much. I have a feeling it won't be as much as you need. You could try approaching a PIR manufacturer. Explain you have 80mm wood fiber above rafters and would like to fit some PIR between but need a condensation risk analysis done to work out how much is safe. They might be able to do one free for you to try and get the business. Note I'm not an expert on condensation and the breathability of the wood fibre might make a difference to the above. Could you put a whole lot more wood fibre on top of the existing 80mm to make it a proper warm roof? I estimate you would need a total of.. T = 6.7 * 0.041 * 1000 = 275mm wood fibre, Less the 80mm you already have is another 195mm. Or you could possibly put the 105mm PIR on top? This would complicate fixing tile battens. Your BCO might have strong views about this. Did he approve the original hybrid with wood fibre both above and between? What do others think? -
Complain to advertising standards. Very easy to do and its anonymous (to the company). I've submitted a few including against big companies.
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Can just leave it. Next time use low efflorescent bricks
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You can buy metal garages but Ive never had one. If it's within 1m of the boundary building regs require it to be essentially non combustible so that might be an issue. Learn how to lay blocks and pay to get them rendered?
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UFH and Carpets. Tog ratings, specialist underlay and other nonsense?
Temp replied to peekay's topic in Underfloor Heating
You can get special low tog underlay For UFH. Try and keep the total tog as low as possible. Some carpets are available in two versions (with Hessian or foam backing). Beware the small print in carpet shop contracts that allows them to deliver either version at their choice.
