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I don't know if these are actually any stronger or if it's just marketing speak but they say upto 40kg. https://www.eurofitdirect.co.uk/collections/heavy-duty-concealed-hinges

The vertical separation between the hinges matters so a short wide door is the worse combo. Think I'd look to see if they make a version for heavy doors and/or move the hinges as far apart vertically as possible. I guess replacing with two doors would look odd.

Blum hinges are probably the most widely used hinges on the market. Have used them myself. What I would do is remove the middle one temporarily. Set up the other two and refit the middle one.

VAT 708 has akl the details but it's quite a messy guide that tries to cover all the schemes. Best find the relevant section and refer your tradesmen and builders to that. I assume you haven't moved into the property as I believe that restarts the 2 year clock.

I feel for you. This sort of thing is unfortunately quite common. It took me over a year to get to the "recommended for approval" stage. All I can suggest is to keep going. If you run out of ideas consider employing a planning consultant.

Yeah I know that but I think you can only apply to discharge numbered conditions.

Mentions cavity trays should be used above windows etc in here but not a lot of detail. https://www.recticelinsulation.com/sites/default/files/country_specific/uk/Specification Guides/Recticel Insulation Cavity Wall Spec Guide.pdf

I notice the house also appears to be close to a slope on the left. I wonder if there are any foundation issues?

Was the 3 year time limit a formal numbered planning condition? I suspect not but if it was one option would be to apply to have it discharged 🙂 There is a fee but one fee covers all of the conditions you ask to be discharged at the same time. So if you discharge them in two groups then there are two fees.

I can see some people not putting in a first floor to stay within the new floor area limit. Then later trying to add a mezzanine.

Different councils have different attitudes to class Q. Some seem very opposed, others seem to have no issue. If its just been used for agricultural use for 10 years it should be OK. But it must be "capable of being converted". Some councils want a structural survey that confirms that the amount of work doesn't take I into the realms of a knock down and rebuild. I think I would get a locally based planning consultant to quote to do a site visit and comment on your chances and what he would recommend you do next. That might be a survey to convince the planners it's capable of being converted. If the survey isn't favourable you don't have to submit it, figure out what you need/can do to it while it's still a barn and if necessary get a new survey done to accompany the application. I've heard some councils draw the line at underpinning. Eg if underpinning is necessary they won't grant it as a class Q. However I don't think there is anything to stop you underpinning while it's still an agricultural building. Others are probably more knowledgeable about this than me.

The issue is this... The planners are only allowed to issue legally binding decisions using official documents. So for example if they just wrote you a letter saying your PP is till valid that would not be legally binding on them, they could in theory change their mind. So if you want a legally binding ruling on the status of your PP then you would have to apply for an LDC. If you are confident that you can prove your PP is still valid you could just carry on. I think what I would do is carry on working AND apply for an LDC on the grounds that work started before PP expired. Its extremely unlikely the planners would start any kind of enforcement knowing an application for an LDC has been filed.

Approved Document S.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/infrastructure-for-charging-electric-vehicles-approved-document-s Might have to read that a few times to work out how many are needed.

Looks cool but I noticed it's "coming soon".

Buy brand name. The big manufacturers tend to use same cartridge in new designs for a long time. Not so sure about unbranded makes.

Does the path get any use? Can you replace the fence without needing to do anything to the path? Think I would find an odd job man willing to break up the concrete and replace with a gravel path if it doesn't get much use. Replace the fence before putting gravel down as he will need somewhere to put the dirt from the fence post holes.

According to Google the ideal shower temperature is in the range 37 to 40C so you're looking for a differential of perhaps 3-5C. This discussion from 2010 ended up talking about Thermostatic valves in general rather than just shower mixer but you get the idea.. https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5751 Maybe by now there are showers with electronic mixers that can do it?

+1 You will need to apply for a dropped kerb. This isnt just permission to lower the kerb, it also gives you legal permission to drive over the pavement. I think it also stops the post office or cable companies putting post boxes, or similar on the pavement that could prevent you driving over it. How busy is the road? The council might not want you to reverse out if it's a busy road. They may insist on you being able to turn around in your front garden. What do the neighbours have? A few years ago the planing laws were changed to try and reduce flooding. This means that Planning Permission is required to pave a front garden unless you deal with all rainwater onsite. You should be fine with gravel but be careful what you put under it. You might consider MOT type 3 hardcore instead of MOT Type 1. I believe Type 3 is water permeable where as some versions of Type 1 can be like concrete. Have a look at the Paving Expert website. See their index for everything related to paving and drainage. Preparation is key to making a driveway that lasts. Pay attention to what they recommend you put under the grids/gravel. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ https://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex The grids you mention come in different materials. I suspect some makes last longer than others when driven over regularly.

It depends a lot on the soil type. We have trees close on clay. According to the soil report and the SE we didn't need exotic foundations. Just deepish trench foundations lined with expansion boards and beam and block floor.

We have two wall mounted WC with these concealed frames and cisterns. In my case they are in boxing below windows. You can service them through the flush plate but I formed an access panel on the top of the boxing as I'm over cautious. Haven't needed to use it. Shop around as prices vary. There was once a German eBay seller that was cheap but that was pre Brexit. Note that the distance between flush, soil pipe and bolts is not a standard ! Most pans will fit but it's worth checking before buying as there are some exceptions that won't. Remember to set the height of the feet taking into account any floor tiling. Basically follow the instructions and all goes smoothly.

Water gets into regular sealed units through the smallest of holes because the gas inside expands and contracts with changes in temperature. That pumps air in and out taking water vapour with it. So unless the whole thing is one triple glazed sealed unit it will be near impossible to keep it out. If the humidity is high small reduction in temperature is all it takes to start condensation. Perhaps the other window gets slightly more sun.

PS: You might consider telling the Builder you would like to be there when the BCO makes his inspections. Not to check up on him but you are just interested in how it's done.

Based only on the photo it looks ok to me. I mean the general quality looks ok. Possibly one of the joist hangers could be neater? This sort of thing (where the beam goes) often involves compromises such as trading off increased headroom for thermal bridging. It generally looks better if the beam in in the ceiling rather than boxed in under it but that can increase heat losses. This sort of beam should really be designed by a professional, typically a structural engineer or similar. They will specify how big the beam is, how its jointed and supported. Frequently the Building Control Officer will ask to see those calculations/design. The job of the padstone is to prevent a "cheese wire" effect by spreading the load of the beam along the length of the wall which it is doing. Laying it flat would make it overhang the sides of the wall and that would have no benefit. The area of the padstone in contact with the wall is what matters and is calculated based on the load and the crush strength of the wall. Is it going to be a warm roof (insulation above rafters) or cold roof (insulation between rafters with ventilated void above the insulation) ? Edit: Ideally the padstone should be centred below the beam but even that may not be an issue especially if the pad stone is longer than necessary.

Doesn't make much difference either way. Might as well do your bit/both at same time. Joint ownership of property can be full of hidden issues. Be sure to get a solicitor involved to do the paperwork. Consider what would happen if one of you dies or gets made redundant or you had a falling out and had to move out. How would you get your share out? It should define your share of any bills like council tax? Maintenance, insurance etc. If you want to be able to sell it as two separate properties I believe that would need planning permission. Two lots of council tax etc.

I believe the problem is the single glazing on the outside. You can't avoid water vapour getting into the 18cm void and the single glazed outer will be cold. I think it would be better to have a sealed DG unit on the outside, an 18cm gap and SG on the inside. That way the outer unit would be warmer. Probably too expensive to change now. Try putting dehumidifier crystals in the 18cm void?