Temp

Check the gates have free movement as any binding or rubbing on the ground is magnified by leverage. Can massively increase the motor current which is normally limited to protect it.

+1 on the 350mm wide blocks. Just check your bricks are 65mm bricks as there are several standard sizes. That way 65 + 10mm mortar = 75mm then 3*75 = 225mm. The blocks will 215+10=225mm. And check this is all consistent with your finished floor level. If this is a new house now is a good time to think about Part M and level access at the front door. In some cases it's possible to avoid having an obvious ramp.

Don't start on site until the CIL exemption is granted in writing or you can lose it. Not worth the risk.

Not sure there is a general rule. If I remember correctly 3 courses of brick = 1 block = 225mm. So perhaps go for 3 blocks on the inner leaf, 2 blocks and 3 bricks on the outer leaf. But does that get your DPC to 150mm above ground level? I think 225mm of cavity below the DPC is meant to be kept empty. So only the bottom two courses of blocks can be foundation blocks (without cavity).

Three years isn't long enough for you to claim ownership of the land through adverse possession. Check both title deeds are consistent with each other in case only one got changed. Didn't your solicitor ask you to confirm your title plan was correct before completion? He would/should not let you rely on a builder moving the legal boundary after completion without something in writing. Was your solicitor negligent?

They are two different things. I don't think they can withold planning permission if its acceptable in planning terms just because there is a covenant.

I think such covenants are common on property sold by the council under right to buy. It could well still be enforceable. I would find an expert on covenants and ask their opinion.

Deleted my post as it's an old thread.

Apply for the CIL exemption using the correct forms if CIL is a thing in your area. Start on any planning conditions that say "Before work starts in site..." or similar. Apply for temporary electric and water connections or whatever you need for the van and site. These can take time.

I suspect long stay means some kind of enclosed bike store to protect them from the elements and short stay just means a stand you can lock it to? Presumably you don't have to make these available to Joe public 🙂

If that's the only overhang I would allow it. If you want to build your own extension you would build against their wall and fit a wider capping to cover both. If you insisted they move everything back a few inches it would be difficult to build your own extension close to the boundary without it looking naff. No easy way to seal the gap to prevent leaf debris collecting. What mike said..

My understanding is that officially the only thing you are allowed to build on a neighbours land are foundations. I believe they can project under a neighbours land slightly. Overhangs are normally considered a trespass. However the courts don't take kindly to people going to court over a minor trespass. I've heard in some cases they allow the trespass to continue and award you nominal damages instead. That could be very little.

@maznaz See Approved Doc H below.. Para 1.20... Says an AAV is OK. Para 1.22... Says it must be within 750mm of the trap. Should be accessible in case of maintenance. I'd use 50mm pipe.

PS Remember the 1m height limit next to a highway or you need planning permission.

Make it deeper so none of the footing is above ground. Use engineering bricks below ground. Ideally use low efflorescent bricks to help avoid the white salt appearing on the surface.

Some carpets are available in two versions, one with a rubber backing and the other with a Hessian backing. These have different TOG values. Beware because the small print on order forms normally allows the shop to supply either version at their choice. Many carpet sales staff haven't a clue what a TOG value is so ask to see the makers spec/data or go elsewhere if you can't see it. One told me a carpet we asked about had a TOG value over 10 which was clearly nonsense.

Scroll down here to the links for Rigid Construction Flexible Construction https://www.pavingexpert.com/setts02

Was hoping to avoid rolling my own but that might turn out to be easier. I did find one fitting at a local BnQ that was perfect (even got adjustable angle) but they seem to have discontinued the lengths I need.

The Clearview wood burners are pretty good.

I'm not a plasterer but perhaps these would reinforce the corner.. Skim coat bead.. https://www.profilestore.co.uk/c/render-plaster-bead/thin-coat-hook-on-bead Corner tape, not sure how strong... https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-reinforced-corner-jointing-tape-white-30m-x-50mm/981CF?tc=UT2&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19823510542&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPxgoUiqaNEyp2UQAKsiCamHx&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8vvABhCcARIsAOCfwwpR9074scYSb2Y_pj_lW2CO_Ww-QYDxvjZiI5O48eAA1xb3HK5fWysaAh6KEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Interesting. "Are you a developer just trying to make money" was one of the first questions the neighbours and Parish asked me. Hadn't thought about the CIL.

We have stone and tiled floors in bathrooms and it's nice to have these warm at times of the year when we don't need heating in the bedrooms. We also have more bedrooms than we need now the kids have left home. For these reasons we find having everything on separate programmable zones quite handy.

I'd probably just spray it with some diluted bleach. Long time ago Tesco sold thin bleach very cheap but they seem to have stopped selling it. Whatever you use watch out for builders walking on it then your best carpet/wood floor.

Can anyone recommend some under cabinet lights for a kitchen? Ideally... Low profile <25mm Tall (so not T5 which tend to be 30-33mm. The recess is only 28mm deep) Mains powered or "plug-in" Approx 40-45cm long to fit 50cm wide cabinets. A 30cm version would be good as well. Ideally just simple lights without hand waving controls. If it has that does it default to ON (or remember it was ON?) when you disconnect and reconnect the power? I want to use a wall switch to turn a set on/off without having to go around hand waving under each one.

Make sure you understand this. He's saying 4*8 made from 2qty of 2*8 is stronger than just one large 4*8. You might need something bigger than 8" deep? I think it's to do with knots? Id go with his suggestion and follow the advice above about taking it apart to get into place. If working short-handed Id look at making some "clothes props" wuth a tripod base to support one end. While you bolt the other.