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Most bathrooms need some sort of storage. One option is to build storage against a wall and run the waste in the bottom.

Yes think I'm out of date.

I assume they aren't talking about a Building Control Completion certificate but some sort of Completion Certificate for Council tax purposes only? I wonder if the latter could trigger the 3 month window for VAT reclaims. In my case (at a different council) they just sent me a letter stating they are assuming I will be complete on some date. I disagreed and told them it will be complete on a different date a few months later and they accepted it.

Contact companies that make metal or concrete garages and have them confirm theirs meets the regs. Perhaps pay for pre application advice from the planners and send them brochure images? The regs also include the foundation slab suitability for the ground conditions so you may need to dig a hole to check how thick the slab is? Think about how it will be sealed to the slab to stop water running in under? Ditto at the doors?

Not me but Google AI said.. "The specific RS485 communication protocol used by Acrimo for their motorized products is generally a proprietary protocol and is not publicly published or standardized"

Not sure about grab rails but tile and stone over 12mm Hardiebacker board seems to hold things like soap dishes and shower head rails well without needing to find studs. I think 12mm of anything might be marginal for grab rails? Can you drill through into the brick?

I can't quite visualise what you are building but check building regs. They require quite a deep (thick) "constructional hearth" if the fire pit/basket/chamber is capable of raising the temperature of the hearth over 100C. For sealing joints perhaps fire cement? Not sure what colours it comes in but try screwfix/toolstation web sites.

Id probably glue it in place.

Lots of wind farms in East Anglia. Very few south of London.

I make my own extension cables when I can because commercial manufacturers are under cost pressures to use as skinny a wire as they can get away with.

If you feel like it you can always get one done and keep the results to yourself. But I wouldn't. Tell the Architect you will investigate and carry on.

I hope that was by email. Contact them ASAP. Perhaps decide beforehand how much of a discount would persuade you to keep them. I would also measure them all to make sure there aren't other issues.

It would help if you cleaned some of the paint and dust off the wires but dont disconnect any wires from terminal blocks or it will be near impossible to sort out whats going on. Just turn the power off ! Is there a third light you didnt remove? This is what I would try but perhaps see if others agree first... On the lower photo... 1) One of the terminal blocks has a mix of Brown and one Blue wire. It's likely that that terminal block is the switched live and the Blue should really have a red or brown sleeve on it. So the Brown wire from the light fitting goes in that one. 2) The Blue from the light goes into the terminal block with all the other Blue wires (only Blue wires). 3) If there is an Earth wire on the light it goes in the connector which has bare copper wires sleeved with yellow and green. (Ignore the yellow and green tape on the connectors) On the upper photo... This appears to only have three groups of wires coming out of the ceiling so... 1) The Brown wire from the light goes in the connector which has Brown wires coming out of the ceiling. 2) The Blue wire from the light goes in the connector which has Blue wires coming out of the ceiling. 3) If there is an Earth wire on the light it goes in the connector which has bare copper wires sleeved with yellow and green. (Ignore the yellow and green tape on the connectors)

I'm not sure about Scotland but in England I think your right to maintain a discharge pipe should be in the neighbours title. So I'd be looking at that and possibly even speaking to the neighbour. If its mentioned in his title and he's all happy explain you might need to repair the pipe/install a new pipe and see if you can negotiate the cost of that and a sewerage treatment plant off the asking price. Check what permits are needed if any to do the upgrade. I guess it depends how much you like the house if you want the hassle.

Think I would put a layer down the cavity and a layer of insulated plasterboard on the inside. The inner layer would need careful cutting at an angle to fit the existing.

I'm a bit late but I found this useful... https://electrical.theiet.org/media/1695/electrical-installations-outdoors-a-supply-to-a-detached-outbuilding.pdf

For info.. All services, including supply and fit that might include materials (eg Bricklayers, electrician, plumbers, plasterers) must be zero rated to you. The only things you can reclaim VAT on are materials you buy personally. If shown on a landscape plan as part of your planning permission you can also include trees.

I don't think that's the correct procedure. Pretty sure it should all be zero rated to you. So no VAT to pay and reclaim. Might help to provide the company with a certificate. A letter giving your details, that of the site and copy of the planning permission. Something like.. I certify that the service you are providing are for a new house at... You can also refer them to VAT708. You should get the quote revised before you accept it to say vat at 0%. Note you can't reclaim VAT on anything paid before you get planning permission. If the CIL is in your area don't do anything on site until you have filed the exemption forms and have confirmation of receipt.

If its a warm roof then the void should not be draughty. However if its a cold roof then it should be! You can't really make decisions until it clear which it is.

Yes it would raise the roof line by about 30mm. As it's a semi I probably wouldnt add counter battens.

We have 12mm Hardibacker board behind stone. No tanking but shower tray not wet room. Been fine. You can fix almost anything to it without needing to find studs.

I think I would drain and refill the system, possibly twice, then run the heating overnight and do one more drain and refill adding Fernox F1 or similar next day. Ideally when you drain it measure the volume by filling and emptying bucket so you can calculate the exact volume of Fernox needed. Overdosing is OK though.

Ask for alternative quotes. Presumably this project doesn't qualify for reduced VAT? Eg it's not been empty for years?

If you are replacing the membrane with vapour permeable one I don't think you need a ventilated air gap but you should still allow the membrane to drape unless external counter battens are used to lift the main tile battens off the membrane. Otherwise I would fit one layer of insulation between the existing rafters and another layer at 90 degrees below them as @Crofter suggested.

We did but I think in theory you can build a house without full plans under a Building Notice - so I'm not sure if they can insist on them? Your permission letter will almost certainly have a condition requiring you build the house to the approved drawings. In the past you had to submit three copies and they stamped one set and sent them back with the letter. You can probably download a set marked approved from the planning portal if you don't have them.