Temp

Seems to work on my phone...

Yeah the biodiversity stuff is more work. I'd suggest trying to find one from a similar application.

Can't comment on CAR but the landscaping plan shouldn't be too hard to put together and get approved. Just mark up a site plan. Normally you write "Tree A" or "Hedge B" on the plan then on a separate "Planting schedule" you list each one in a table...."Tree A to be a standard size xyz species" or "Hedge B to be two rows of native hedge plant (whips) planted 60cm apart and protected from rabbits by plastic spirals". That sort of thing. As its a planning condition any VAT paid on trees can be reclaimed if there is a landscaping plan.

Yeah that's just wrong. Should apply the adhesive to the wall and remove excess with a notched trowel held at near 90 degrees to the wall. This maximises the height of the adhesive ridges. When the tile is pressed on the ridges of adhesive spread out filling the valleys so you end up with fairly high % coverage. Not 100% though as that would use up all the depth adjustment available. Some tiles or stone need to be back buttered (as well) with a thin flat layer of adhesive.

I use a notched trowel and a straight block of wood to level tiles with neighbours in two directions. Reckon I could do better than your photo and I'm not a professional.

Looks good. I think I would have moved the tiles about half a tile left or right to eliminate the thin cuts.

That's ok but the mortgage still needs to be secured against the correct bit of land. There can sometimes be issues with the land registry if you split land but want to own both plots. Depends if there are any covenants or easements.

Ask the surveyor to comment. How can he not notice 25mm over 1m.

The mortgage needs to be secured on the land. They can't do that as it's effectively undefined until you split it. You don't want it secured on the whole plot either, only on the bit where the new house will be. This is all normal and will apply to all lenders

There are several low profile solutions for UFH but unless you have at least 80mm of insulation below the concrete I would avoid them. We have 80mm and wish I had fitted more. If you really want UFH think about taking up the floor.

More insulation and avoid wood windows. Had enough of painting.

I agree with others.. 150-200 mm PIR and UFH in screed of 70-80mm Avoid Anhydride (spelling?) screed because it's hard to tile onto. Form expansion gaps at doorways don't screed right through as it will crack. The expansion gaps is just a deliberate gap so you ensure it's straight not curving into one room or the other. If carpeting go for special low TOG underlay and keep total TOG to 2.0 or less. Stone and tile is great with UFH.

Spiders and bees sometimes block overflow pipes

Could easily fill wood frame with offcuts of insulation. I didn't bother as all showers on first floor.

Some top access traps have a higher waste than others.

I've done two or three shower trays on beam and block floors with insulation, UFH and screed. I like the waste pipe to enter the area under the shower as far as possible from the trap so the trap can move a bit in all directions. Not essential but it makes alignment a tad less critical. Then I build a timber frame as per option 2. Normally treated 2*4 cut down if necessary. At least 18mm WPB on top. I cut a clearance hole in the WPB so the bottom part of the top access trap can be moved about a bit in all directions including vertically so it can be pulled up against the underside of the tray by the top part. This is why I like some unsupported length of waste pipe. I do a dry run then mortar the tray down. I Used flexible tile adhesive last time as I had some already for tiling. Used a notched trowel. I screw in the top part of the trap while still soft. Later removed and refitted with sealer. Two of the trays are virtually at FFL but I allow a bit of clearance so the bottom door seal doesn't rub on the tiles when you open the door.

I recommend producing a street scene drawing/sketch showing your proposal and the two houses either side. Our architect did this using pen and a single water colour (green). This allowed a certain artistic licence and harmonised the different designs to certain extent.

Perhaps something like this.. https://ocldirect.co.uk/natural-stone-grey-tumbled-block-paving-200-x-100mm-per-m2 £52 x 40 = £2080 But don't underestimate the cost of mortar for pointing.

When my Aunt died we had to extend her lease before selling her flat. Freeholder delayed and delayed forcing us to take them to court which cost even more time. Eventually the council slapped us with double council tax because the property was empty. We finally completed on the sale in June, stopped the Direct Debit and wrote to the council to notify them. Months later they still haven't responded stating they have a three month backlog of post ! This is now delaying us winding up her estate, most of which is going to charities.

I found this guide some time ago. Haven't checked if it's still current though... https://electrical.theiet.org/media/1695/electrical-installations-outdoors-a-supply-to-a-detached-outbuilding.pdf I think mine was done as per figure 3 eg.. MCB in the house CU. SWA cable to a "Garage CU" in the outbuilding. Garage CU contains an RCD and two MCB (lighting and power) Earth provided at the outbuilding via a rod.

I've hired a few towers over the years. I probably should buy one. A pet gripe is that some companies work on the platform height, some the hand rail height and some the working height. The latter is about 6ft above the platform height. It can be hard to find on their website. You need to check. Last one I hired via https://www.lakeside-hire.co.uk they subcontract it to local hire companies outside their area.

Why 3 batteries? Does the system need 12V and step it up to 24V?

I agree it's most likely an old chimney. You can see remains of the flashing at the top.

Ah sorry my bad.

It's measured from the ground adjacent to the building. If the ground slopes it's from the highest part adjacent to the building. You might get away with raising the ground slightly but if it's obvious that's what you have done the increase will likely be discounted.