Temp

I think it will be fine. Similar to what we have.

Google tells me they operate on 868MHz which is also used by some burglar alarms. I don't think having a burglar alarm on the same frequency should cause a problem but I suppose it might be something to check.

I was told they all count as highways so fences over 1m need planning permission. I think that was the problem with this story last week... https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-14801729/We-bought-land-homes-erected-6ft-fence-yobs-snobby-neighbours-complained-council.html

The retained side is the higher side.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c5y2p0kn5zko.amp Quote: A man who was charged £70,000 by his local council for making "a small home improvement" is to get a refund. Steve Dally had been granted planning permission to replace an existing house extension that was exempt from the Community Infrastructure Levy (CIL), but he did not realise an extra application to make minor amendments was subject to the charge.

When they built the M3 past our house in the 1970s my dad fitted double glazing before they eventually offered to pay for it. We were then told they wouldn't pay for what he had installed because the best gap for noise reduction was 6 inches. So they came and installed Secondary glazing with this big gap so we ended up with triple glazing. My son is away on holiday or I would check with him as he's an acoustics engineer. ChatGPT says...

Would dropping the joists at the outer ends put stress on any wiring or pipe work?

I doubt it's caused damage to the foundations but you can see the brick or mortar are leeching salts (the white powder) which is normally exacerbated by damp. Damp bricks can spall (bits flake off) when the water freezes. However they don't look too bad for their age. I wonder if the path is a lot newer? Yes what @Russell griffiths suggest is essentially a French drain. If really keen you can drop some perforated pipe into the gravel and lead the water away to a soakaway or a drain if they allow combined sewers in your area.

ho hum.. https://www.reddit.com/r/OctopusEnergy/comments/1dl01hk/missing_a_day_worth_of_export_data/

Bit of a scandal if the meter is missing export. Imagine the class action lawsuit if it was found a lot of them missed export units.

The site plan in our planning application/grant showed where the verge crossing would be and it's rough shape.

Ours sounds similar. The wide verge between my plot and the road edge was officially "land maintened at the public expense" according to highways. We did the crossing ourselves, or rather our builder did. He also installed a linear drain where it met the edge of the road as it slopes down towards the road. The outlet of this goes via a short pipe into the piped ditch that runs under this area. I've no idea if he was allowed to do this but my builder was good at just getting things done. It probably only took him a day or two to prep everything and another 1/2 day for the tarmac crew to surface it. He wasn't in anyone's way and nobody ever questioned if he had or needed paperwork (other than our planning permission).

I was told to allow 1 day per mm of thickness so 60mm screed takes 60 days to dry.

I take it the inverter knows how much is exported not just whats generated.

No don't do that. Some of the load tends to pull the rafter away from the ridge beam. Check with your SE.

Perhaps I misunderstanding this but I think 600mm is about the minimum depth recommended for soil pipes. If you must be higher.. Normally you must have a large radius bend at the bottom of all stacks. Think they give you a socket at about 350mm above their invert level. How high that socket can be depends on what you want to connect to it on the ground floor. Things like showers on the ground floor mean you sometimes want to connect into the stack below floor level. If you only have a WC on the ground floor I would work down from it's outlet to see how low you need the branch into the stack for that to be.

On this type of roof the rafters "hang" from the steel so yes nails not enough. Think our SE specified steel straps joining one rafter to the other over the top of the beam.

That's a fairly normal request. We had similar in 2005. It sounds like a lot but it's not so bad if you already have a site plan. It might be possible to do it all the yourself but they may want an arboriculturist to do it.

Yes that looks similar to the Ronseal stuff. They seem to stick and sand well. I've even used them to repair damaged corners. Other fillers are so hard to sand they would normally break off in that situation.

Think I'd glue the side back on and then fix any holes. I've been using a Ronseal two part filler from Wickes recently and it seems pretty good. Think it comes in white and grey.

Presumably the loft room is being let as a bedroom?

On what grounds? Agricultural land and Agricultural barns are normally exempt until they become dwellings. Start collecting evidence from Google maps and streetview so you can prove it was a barn until some date.

Apparently BS EN 1177 standard requires 300 mm of bark or wood chip for critical fall heights up to 3 meters and in the USA they want 230mm to protect from falls of 7 feet. oh and an initial extra 25% to allow for settling!

Google rocks.. https://www.barkukonline.co.uk/collections/play-grade-surfaces?srsltid=AfmBOoqGv5CR_O96uIvH6W7C5qLGVniOzjWKG3iM-RP8oh21auQzXlVG#. I only use bark for weed control on flower beds and it does degrade and become firmer over time.

Not sure about these by they are 230V slim LED strips with built in driver.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07WFC6D7H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1