Temp

In an ideal world you wouldnt have joists to conduct noise through the floor, you would have a separate floor and ceiling or false ceiling. In short wool insulation and double plasterboard is probably the best way to go. That will reduce transmission of things like music or TV but might not reduce impact noise/foot fall as much as you would like.

It should be fine as long as the concrete isn't too shallow anywhere.

I'm on a fibre to the the cabinet then long copper. Originally got 64mb but over time it's degraded to 16mb with periods as low as 2mb. Think Starlink looks like a good deal now.

How important is the amount of sky you can see? Do wet trees cause an issue like they do for satilite TV?

Tiling over any kind of joint between slabs can be problematic. My bet would be there is some movement going on causing the tiles to crack. Wax in the cracks may make it difficult to get anything else to stick now. Not sure what to recommend short of relaying the lot with some sort of isolation underlay. I think even replacing the tiles might only be a temporary solution.

Definitely a job to for a structural engineer to go look at. Perhaps not a full report just a visit and his thoughts on feasibility of removing it? Go back for a design report if he's optimistic?

If you are selling off part of your garden with planning permission its important that the sale qualifies for Private Residence Relief (PRR). My understanding is you shouldn't clear the land and fence it off. It should still look like part of your garden. ChatGPT says..

+1 We have two of these and the work well.

I gave it a good thrashing with the cerium oxide on a slow angle grinder/fast mop going over it about a dozen times in different directions... worked up a good sweat.. and it's only reduced it slightly. Oh well.it will have to do.

I put receipts into plastic sleeves in ring binders as they arrive. Each sleeve was numbered. Entered the data in a spreadsheet with an extra column for the sleeve numbers. Most stressful part was worrying it might get lost in the post. Make sure you understand the rules..eg ... Labor must be zero rated to you not paid and reclaimed. Supply and fit ditto including the materials supplied. Vat paperwork needs to have your name and address or you have to explain why not. It's always best to get a new quote before work starts if vat is mentioned in error.

I have some 2.5 micron on the way. Will see how that goes.

Thanks but it's been cleaned within an of an inch of its life. Definitely etched.

Our shower glass has been etched by descaler over the years. Has anyone tried polishing/mopping out the frosting it produces? Have slow speed angle grinder/mop.

What have you agreed with the Architect? Some contracts are limited to getting Building Control Approval, others include construction drawings. These are sometimes the same drawings but not always. The minimum required by Building Control is less than required for construction drawings. On our house we had to use denser blocks in a few key areas like pillars supporting steel beams and between two windows where loads were higher than normal.

Most of us just yell at the kids... Turn the f... light off.

It could be the lead valley was designed/installed incorrectly so perhaps don't just copy what you have with new. Why did it split? Were the strips of lead too long (thermal expansion)? No expert but I know lead work is a bit of a skill/art.

This bloke seems to know what he's doing. See if he has a vid on valleys.. https://youtu.be/srpMbLCTnMg?si=hFricBFGC_FSeikN

Both. Building Control normally want to see drainage plans and may want to inspect before trenches are back filled. The utility will also want to approve a connection to it. Think I would get some drawings done and approved by the utility co. Think it's unlikely or less likely BC will object if the utility co is happy.

The more insulated the UFH is by carpet the higher the UFH temperature has to be to push the heat required into the room. Ultimately that can affect the efficiency of the system. But if your house is very well insulated that might not be a problem. Does it even need heating upstairs. We have some rooms with 21mm wood floors and have had to raise the UFH temperature to 50C when it's very cold outside. But our house isn't super insulated.

For small qty I'd use one of those big blue flexible buckets and a plasterers whisk in a drill.

They recommend you keep the total TOG value to around 2.0 I think. You might get away with a bit more but how much is hard to say. There are special low TOG underlays that allow more to be allocated to the carpet. Note that some carpets are available in two versions foam or Hessian backed. The small print in some contracts allows the shop to choose which they supply. Hessian has lower TOG but a harder feel. Go visit some carpet shops and ask about TOG values. If you get blank looks ask for another staff member or go elsewhere. Try out samples to see if the carpet and underlay with a low TOG are ok underfoot. Then you can decide if you need thicker.

I've used VP400 on a project and its quite robust. It was exposed for a few months and survived ok.

Use a vapour permeable "felt"/membrane before battens and I think you are ok. Check the makers instructions and show to Building Control before you install. Remember the membrane must still drape so a 25mm unventilated void maybe required. This is to stop water pooling above the battens.

Would it be possible to jack up the joists and put packing (or just DPC) under the ends?