MJNewton

Thanks everyone. For once I am determined not to overthink this so will take a plunge. I may try the Dulux Satinwood as whilst I haven't used the water based one before it'd be interesting to compare to the oil based which I have (and which I have suffered yellowing with but that was its only downside).

I've been out of the game (perhaps have never really been in it!) when it comes to paint for interior wood for a while now and am looking for recommendations for paint for doors, frames and skirting. The only requirements I've set so far is white and satin/eggshell finish. I am unclear on solvent (water/oil) and application method (brush/roller) too. I don't really mind the cost. If it's good I'll have it.

Looks like you caught a similar bird feather to me!

Just to close this off, I bought a square metre of 10mm G3 filter media from Just Fans for £8.34 and this should last me quite some time even if I do decrease the service interval which I think I ought to from the state of the old filters I removed! (L = internal extract, R = external intake) I can't work out how long my unit has been in, but it could be over a year and I've been doing a fair bit of renovation work inside. I'm going to go with a six month interval now and see how things look then, adjusting depending on what I find (and reminding myself how cheap bulk-bought filter media is).

For what it's worth I added some acoustic foam to my manifolds, partly to absorb noise but also to aid insulation (they're located in a cold loft, although they have been externally insulated too with rockwool). I don't know how effective it was as it was done pre-install but suffice to say I don't think I can hear any fan noise (just air flow on boost).

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I think most of us can relate to that - I know I can!

Yes, I'd agree with that. I was going to make some but when I saw how cheap they were (eg the Blauberg ones) I decided it wasn't worth DIYing it.

Aside from the variance that's looking good - room with thermostat meeting target temp; system off due to being satisfied. If you want the rest of the house to be warmer you'll need to do one of three things: 1) increase target temp to demand more heat, 2) move the thermostat to your preferred (perhaps coolest) room with the desired target temp set or 3) supplement heating in the rest of the house with local heat sources.

I think they were asked for on/around page 9 so we've still got a bit longer to wait for those. ?

You're beginning to sound like you don't actually want this problem solved! Get the thing taken away - I really don't think keeping it is going to work for you.

Okay, that sounds hopeful! It certainly seems like a fundamental error to have had the 0.8 setting for your setup, and finger's crossed one that may have been the cause of sub-par performance. How have things been since upping the curve to 1.2 this morning? (Noting it may take a while for your house to really warm up)

I'm guessing here, but I suspect it could be a weather compensation parameter. I am imagining there being different curves that it follows to determine how much heat to generate depending on outside temperature, room temperature and response rate. The 0.8 vs 1.2 might be choosing a different one and, most importantly, one that is a bit more generous with how much heat it decides is required. I didn't want to muddy the waters but I was going to suggest perhaps you (/us) working out if your weather compensation could be disabled, not only to rule it out of the equation as being potential cause of issues but also to make it operate a bit more simply / less 'too clever for its own good' / less stingy with what it gives out etc.

I've been using IP cameras with passive 'poor mans' PoE injectors/splitters (i.e. they use the same unused Ethernet pairs but that's as far as compliance with the standards goes) for over 15 years now and never had a single issue. I'm sure there must be downsides but if like me you want full market choice of camera and get maximum bang for buck I'd recommend it. I'd suggest WiFi for mobile devices (or very hard to reach places) and wired connections for everything else.

Re-read the thread and complete any outstanding actions (getting the installers back, getting the figures used to specify the system etc) and if you still have issues we can go from there. In the meantime get some electric heaters.

Is the sink the 'Centinox'? And what's the outside vs inside difference?

Yes, and indeed we've bought a few high-value kitchen items (eg Franke Ariane sink, Kessebohmer LeMans corner pull out unit etc) for a fraction of the retail cost. Always 'new' but tatty box, unsold stock etc. Best played as a long-term game though but that suits my general pace of house renovation anyway! ? I just set a saved search for the things I'm after (with an upper price limit) and then wait for the email alerts to come in.

That's a good (and obvious!) idea. :-)

Whilst this feels like a contradiction interns, this board seems to be of very high quality (it's from DIY Kitchens for what it's worth) and is extremely heavy. No wire seen so far (or is it potentially microscopic due to the way it's made?)

The cuts really have been perfect on both sided - like they'd be done with a Stanley knife. But do you think changing the depth might increase the life? The half-tooth depth was merely what the instruction manual said to do (to improve cut quality).

I've been using my plunge saw on the new kitchen build and with its track found it absolutely brilliant for perfectly neat cuts on end panels, shelves etc. However, I am finding that my blades are dulling after a time resulting in slow cuts and burning of the material. Am I doing something wrong? I wondered if it might be one of the following: - Material - the panels are melamine faced chipboard (MFC) so a fairly dense material with glues and goodness knows what else inside it - Speed - might I be cutting too fast? Too slow? - Alignment - could the tool be out of alignment and hence giving the blade a tough time? It all looks fine, produces nice square cuts, and there doesn't appear to be much adjustment on this model (Titon TTB673CSW from Screwfix) - Support - I've been making my cuts on a sacrificial sheet of OSB. The blade has however been set to only just be below the bottom of the material being cut (as per the instructions) and so is only *just* cutting into the OSB - Blades - the two blades I've tried are one from Triton and another from Trend at £10 and £15 respectively. It is hard to quantify how long they are lasting me, but I could be on to my third blade soon now which seems a lot for one kitchen...?

Perhaps choice of ducting is less critical in that case, and if flexible ducting is acceptable then obviously that flexibility will be to your advantage because it can be clamped down on to the odd-sized vent using a jubilee clip.

Could the foam be intended to be used to fill the gap between the outer diameter of the upper valve portion and the ducting? (i.e. it's currently sitting in the wrong place)

Either solid or the somewhat confusing name semi-rigid: Solid: or Semi-rigid: In all cases the interior is smooth (or relatively smooth in the semi-rigid case) and thus minimises flow restrictions that would otherwise occur with flexible ducting. Edit: I've just re-read that you've got a 'small MVHR' unit... how 'small' is it? I've also just spotted that whilst you've got two vents that's all that's intended on being used? In which case perhaps the 'proper' approach I describing above might not be quite so important and flexible ducting would suffice (like it would with, say, an inline bathroom fan extractor).

I wouldn't expect flexible ducting of that type to be used for runs to ceiling vents?