epsilonGreedy

I am watching a pro builder executive size house build near me, the beam and block floor is over bare weed free earth dug 3 weeks ago.

Only a bit, we have already concluded that post build we will need a different summer and winter locations.

Good point, the position we chose this morning involved a compromise to allow space for when the scaffolding goes up. Think I might try a trial bash in to half the spike's depth and see how it feels.

Don't do as I once did and book the carpet fitting just 48 hours after glossing the skirting board. The carpet fitter turned up and refused to fit saying the carpet would stick to the fresh gloss paint over a few days.

I am getting nagged to install the new rotary washing line, it is a posh Brabantia model with a substantial ground spike, 40cm deep, formed from pressed riveted sheet metal. According to the instructions it is meant to be hammered into the ground (rich silty top sail in my case). Given that I have a cement mixer and other concrete ingredients onsite it seems a bit daft not to concrete in the the ground spike.

It will be a sectional door. I have wanted one since visiting my brother in Seattle 20 years ago, they have caught on over here in recent years. Think I will follow @ProDaveand go for the largest opening, I like how a sectional door frame tucks right out of the way behind the wall aperture.

Tomorrow I will be laying some footing blocks that will define a garage door aperture. If I scale my garage to a round door size figure will the door be cheaper?

A plot will have been priced relative to the size of the approved home, building smaller could lead to a poor financial end result. However if the location is special does it matter!

I paid £160 including materials for a 20m long 6 mm2 3-core mains hook up to my static including fitting of a 2 circuit consumer unit in a tight cavity wall meter box currently on stilts. I laid the cable. Edit: Forgot to mention the electrician was working on a larger job at the plot next door. The shed electrical hookup was much cheaper, just materials because I did the electrical work including a service trench from static to shed, light, double socket and fused spur. The largest cost was 2.5 mm2 armoured cable, about £45 though I had 10m left over for another function.

Is it an online-only auction process?

Hmm some choice items there, is it likely to be returned or damaged stuff?

I took a standard width and full length static caravan as the basis for my comparison which came out at 418 sq ft. Swmbo and I are finding life for two in an extra wide static with 451 sq ft too comfortable = lower motivation to crack on with the self build. As the OP is free of the road haulage constraints of a static there is an option to be more creative with the space for example in a recent TV example bedrooms were formed as pilot berth alcoves off the main room.

Given the gruesome my wound photo is worse than yours in a recent thread, I have been wondering how to stack the odds better in my favour when using my new angle grinder. @joe90 and @AnonymousBosch what as the sequence of events that lead to your injury and how could it have been avoided? Someone suggested that a reduced worn disk could jam on the material being cut thus leading to disk fragmentation.

Have you sketched an accommodation plan for your temporary accommodation? I ask because a family of 4 will struggle in less than 400 sq ft through a winter, which is large gym in the back garden.

I think you are right about the width, I just picked 30" as an example. The "workshop" portion of the garage in this particular side of the garage is really more of an internal store shed about 9' x 7', the largest item in there will be lawn mower. The internal store might become a sauna at a later date, so perhaps I should expand the question to sauna door widths.

I am laying some footing blocks that will stand about 20mm proud of the FFL of my garage floor ground bearing concrete slab. There is an internal door in this garage/workshop. What door aperture width should I create in the masonry wall to accommodate a future door frame kit for a 30" door?

DWB for the Hull and Lincolnshire area. https://dwbgroup.co.uk

Would ceiling speakers be good enough for some 5.1 sound rear speakers?

Are the length errors specific to the angled walls only?

Feedback on my original post: The hammer and metal fatigue method advised by @Declan52 removed two thirds of the screws, the remainder required a 4 inch disk cutter/grinder that the man & van who transported the shed panels had in his tool kit. I now have my own Makita 240v 4" angle grinder which proved useful when my Makita pulse impact driver drove a 5" wood screw into a hidden nail which then proved impossible to reverse out. The site laundry shed is up and running though the washing machine wobbled to an alarming degree on the basic shed floor until I added a supplementary 18mm thick osb floor plinth screwed onto 3" x 2" bearers.

If health and safety culture was applied logically then angle grinders would be sold with a mandatory training course and Kevlar gloves, they are hideous devices.

Hmm a 4" discrepancy on interpreting the design before any natural error tolerance in paint marks on the ground, think this has to be resolved before continuing.

I did my own setting out for an L-shaped house compised of 3 rectangles though nothing as complex as your design. In your position I would use some O level trigonometry to calculate the size of the rectangle that touches the outer edge of your difficult corners, mark out this boundary rectangle and then mark smaller boxes within the large rectangle touching each difficult corners. At this point the weird angles could be produced by joining up between the corners of inner rectangles.

I am thinking ahead to horizontal forces on a wall at wall-plate level introduced by cut roof rafters (assuming minimal joists). My first thought was the cavity wall would be stronger because it is 50% wider but then I realized that wall ties are effective under tension but only marginally so under compression.

Tame what you have otherwise you run the risk that your immature seedling grass will not cope with an August thunder storm and all that foot traffic. How about cultivating a 10m x 6m section of the field with seedling grass for photo's, orientated for the sun at the time of the photoshoot. If it fails to take you can drop in some strawbails, plant pots plus astro turf and do the photo's elsewhere. I would create a smokers zone free of dry grass thatch to remove the risk of a grass fire spreading to the marquee. I would also throw down 10 to 20 tons of 1" limestone at the vehicle entrance to the field as a precaution against 1/2" of rain the day before. When I arranged a similar event the factor I overlooked was external lighting.