jayc89

I had our system boiler moved a few months back. I now want to drain the system to take a couple of radiators off and discovered the wally’s that moved the boiler removed the drain tap and haven’t fitted a new one, that I can see. System has 3x 2 port valves, downstairs UFH, upstairs radiators and DWH. I’ve tried manually forcing those to open, opening the bleed nipple on the highest radiator (towel rail) and draining from the UFH manifold, but nothing’s coming out. The boiler has depressurised. short of fitting a new drain tap, is there anything I can do today?

Thanks. It says their most efficient hatch as 100mm PIR bonded to it, whereas their cheapest uses 65mm "foam". I have plenty of 100mm offcuts kicking around, do you think it would be reasonable to buy the cheapest, rip off the foam and bond a length of PIR to it?

Looking for a pretty basic loft hatch, doesn't need to be massive, or have integrated ladders, purely for access only, and I very rarely plan to be in that part of the roof space. Preferably something that's airtight and has some level of insulation incorporated. Any recommendations?

It's been a wide spreading project, I'm sure our BCO loves us. - Replaced rotten suspended timber floor with a new slab - Covered over cellar with block and beam floor - Windows/Insulation/MVHR (did these all through BC as I couldn't find a window fitter to supply windows without vents until we had MVHR and didn't want to rip the house up once to fit MVHR to do it again after windows had been fitted for insulation/airtightness etc, so a bit of chicken and egg situation) We're also doing an extension on the same Building Notice, so we're locked into regs as they were in '21, which gives us some nice wiggle room.

The windows I just removed were similar. Held in with 4x hammer fixings, that I was able to pull out with my fingers, and massive gaps where the sealant had hardened and fell out over the years. No foam in sight, although I guess that was less prevalent 30 years ago...) No wonder the house was cold.

BCO is being a stickler for the regs. My proposal for IWI would achieve a u-value for 0.35, for a couple of reasons; keeps the build up reasonable, allows "some" heat to escape, especially around floor joists pocketed into brickwork (this is a reno, not a new build). I've queried it, citing traditional building, risk of damage etc etc, so we'll see what he says. He's been pretty pragmatic so far... If he does dig his heals in, I could get around it by in-filling the service cavity with 25mm PIR, which would get me to 0.25, but it would mean I'd be encasing my socket ring with that 25mm PIR too... It's currently 2.5mm T&E, what would I likely have to upgrade it to if I did have to put 25mm PIR in the service void? Would 4mm be enough? Note: This is a renovation, not a new build. I'm aware I'm not achieving PH-level standards.

A fully grown man whose avatar is him sitting in his Porsche 911.

As some may now, we decided to replace our own windows. Prior to doing so we spoke with a couple of local window fitters for quotes, timelines etc. One of them got back in touch this week, commenting on the new windows, asked who did them and stated they don't comply with building regs. As I dug into it, it turns out their concern is the lack of trickle vents. They were bigging up their FENSA membership and how they're now a GGF member (the only member in the area, in fact). I don't know why I felt the need to explain myself, I haven't told them who fitted the windows as it's none of their business, but I told them we're also installing MVHR and all of this is being done via a Building Notice. However this wasn't good enough for them, and because the MVHR is yet to be commissioned the installation should be reported to FENSA and GGF and new windows need ripping out. None of this is a concern to our BCO. Their last email to me; This guys owns, arguably, the most respected window fitting company in the area. I've never known anything like it. Sour grapes?

Given I already have the sealant, I'm going to continue using that. Allows me to use hammerfixings for areas where I want to hang heavy stuff too.

Heard good things about the more recent Husqvarna Automowers.

I'm rubbish at being able to vision what good looks like, but tell me what to build and I'll give it a go. Are online landscape designers a thing? I have a topographical survey and can take plenty of images for them. Anyone had any success using one?

BCO approved my calcs today! Thanks everyone.

I made a start on our IWI; PIR adhered to the wall, VCL (not necessarily needed, but belts and braces...), battens mechanically fixed through and PB over the battens. In the rooms I've done so far, I've been putting a glob on acrylic sealant in the batten screw holes before driving the screw into the brickwork. On the ones I checked, there was a decent seal between the back of the batten and the PIR/VCL. But it's slow going. For the next room(s) I'm considering running strips of butyl tape behind the battens with the expectation/hope that it will provide the airtight seal around the screw as it's driven into the brickwork. Pros/cons to either? Is one more foolproof than the other? Any other suggestions?

I have a similar problem, I'll be doing something along the lines of; PIR adhered direct to the wall, mechanically fix battens through it using hammer fixings, this becomes your service void, use 25mm battens if just cables, go larger if you need to route water in there too. OSB and PB over the battens.

Just found 2x for £70 on eBay. The Yorkshireman in me is much happier with that price.

I only have a 25mm service void between PB and AVCL running across the bottom of the roof joists. The plenum sits above and penetrates through the AVCL, screwed into the joists. I doubt I'll have the wiggle room to slot them in from underneath like that. I did wonder whether I could make an inverse hatch. Screw the valve onto a square of PB 600x600 (to match my service void battens), push that up to engage the plenum, as I should be able to get my hands in to make sure it's snug, then carry on with full lengths of PB again. A bit nasty?

I think these were the cheapest I could find - https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/product/46223/frameless-ventilation-valve-round-o-125-mm.html I'd also have a problem fitting them to be fair. They look like they need to be fitted from above (lugs sitting on top of the PB, rather than beneath it like plaster-in downlights), and I have a cold roof with the AVCL running across the bottom of the roof joists, so no access from above...

Any suggestions? I have 90mm duct going into 125mm plenums. Would prefer a plaster-in/frameless valve in each room, if possible, but the ones I've seen so far are approx £70 each!

They effectively self-seal themselves so are fine to pierce your VCL. Don't over think it I'm confused about your last sentence about being confused. Whatever you do, you want your insulation below your UFH pipes, never on top. The insulation is there, partly, to prevent the heat from those pipes escaping, downwards, out of the house through your sub base.

Looks similar to mine, dig down to ~ 800mm on your side, find your existing supply and follow it back. I found it easiest to rake out with the end of a crow bar, kept the opening pretty small.

I laid ours 800mm down, covered in sand, laid some magnetic tape across and then backfilled.

Our meter is only 100mm from our boundary. We managed to dig enough out under the pavement to pass the new pipe through and connect it. Yorkshire Water has some guidelines around when this can/can't be done, so might be worth checking your local water board.

I have a couple of bay windows, approx 2m x 1m in size. I want to change them back to sliding sash windows, which, coincidently are approx 1m x 2m in size, so I have some brickwork to contend with. I have a couple of acrows and strong boys, what's the best way of approaching this? I'm thinking; - Strongboys just above the new lintel location - Install new lintel - Knock out new opening brickwork between new and existing lintels - Remove window and brick up sides - Remove existing lintel and patch up

Hot water's taking the scenic route to those rads. We have our 2-port for our rads in the airing cupboard upstairs (with the boiler and water cylinder) and have the cable from it ran down to our UFH wiring centre.

The guy who did our screed also works with a 10mm aggregate flowing concrete and he said it comes out pretty level. If his screed work is anything to go by (tiler said it was the best floor he'd ever worked on), I'm inclined to believe him. (Although, caveat, I haven't seen it for myself).