jayc89

Looks like this is what I'm going to have to do - - given it's a brand new window, I really don't fancy cutting a bloody hole in it! I'll speak with the manufacturer to see if there's anything they can do. Pretty sure it's nothing that we did and it arrived loose...

One of my window openings isn't square so I don't have the gap to use TP600 on it. I plan on doing exactly this for that window.

Today’s turned into a bit of a shitshow. Dry fitted the second window to find the spring in one of the sash runners has jumped off so we have a drifting sash. Looks like we need a special tool to pull it out of the housing and back onto the cam. Went to take out the third window and found a massive gap above the old wooden lintels, and the original sash window head still floating around up there. God knows how it hasn’t all come crumbling down yet, but I’ll be ordering some new lintels tomorrow… Day off tomorrow, lintels hopefully here come Wednesday and hope to have the rest of them in by the weekend.

Pretty chuffed with how it’s coming along.

I'll get one tomorrow. 2nd, of 3 windows, is out and cill poured so it will be a nice before, during, after shot.

First window out and cill poured. Will sponge off and get the new window in tomorrow morning. The 80s uPVC frames are featherweight in comparison to the new ones!

Oh and the far nuts on the 2x bath stands were loose (i.e half way down the rods), so as it was being filled up and people were getting in and out of it, there would have been some flex from that, potentially stretching the old silicone too. They've been tightened up. If I hadn't had already left a shitty review for the bathroom fitter, it would have been an even shittier one now. This whole debacle is a prime example of why I tend to DIY the majority of work these days.

It did cross my mind. I don't think so as I had filled/emptied the bath countless times over the last week without noticing it (and I would have been laying in the pool!), and there was obvious water streaming down the back of the taps and into the far corner.

Think I've sorted the leak. Emptied the bath for the second time and it started to spill its guts all over the floor. Turns out the waste seal was also incorrectly fitted, so when the plugs just raised (one of those push type), to let the water slowly escape (as is the norm), it drains OK, however when I removed the plug entirely to empty it quickly and remove some loose bits of old silicone caught in it, it ran down the outside of the trap beneath the bath. Brand new PB ceiling below, FFS, I drilled a couple of holes in it to allow the water escape, I'd say I managed to collect a litre in a bowl. It never rains but it pours, literally!

PVC windows have been fitted like that for the last ~ 50 years? There are certainly pros to using straps, but they're likely minimised on a solid brick wall, without some additional detailing.

Replacement arrived yesterday. Fitted today. Instruction suggest should self-tapping screws should be driven through the PB into the frame, but it didn't come with any. Are these required? If so, should I get something like these - https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-phillips-double-countersunk-wing-screws-5-5-x-40mm-100-pack/16748?tc=AA3&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqiiBhBtEiwATgvixOWM31htMa9TgfyKOeJqjYWMu3ThUk2szszpUAHbnhPEPdGLDTl5sxoC1CkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds ?

The original's don't look like they were stooled, the two originals we have left at the back of the house certainly aren't, they're just lengths of stone. I was planning on having a slight fall to the front and a drip groove built into the formwork though.

I was planning on using 100mm screws for our windows. The only time I've used longer is for our internal wall insulation where they needed to go through battens, insulation and then into the wall.

I'll be casting 4x cills over the weekend, trying to replicate these; The cills I'm tackling are the 4x upstairs ones (front 3 and 1 to the side). They're 1x brick tall and don't look to extend wider than the opening massively, perhaps by 50mm, or 2" back in the day? Similar the overhang isn't that much either, perhaps by the same measurement again? From the cills we have left, they look to be Yorkstone so I'll be taking inspiration from a previous post, shuttering up the opening and using a mix of 1 white cement, 1/2 hydrated lime and 4 plastering sand. The windows going in are 128mm deep. I want them to sit half on the cill and half on the IWI that will be fitted behind the cill to reduce thermal bridging. Assuming the windows should sit back from the brick face by approx 50mm (I can't find any hard and fast rule for this), I'm thinking a cill depth of ~ 114mm makes sense (64mm of the window frame + 50mm back from the brick face + 50mm overhang). Giving the final dimensions as; Length: (Opening width) + 100mm (50mm each side), Height: Brick height (4 1/2"), approx. 115mm) Depth: 115mm. I was expecting the depth to be more. Can anyone spot any obvious floor in my plan?

Silicone is on. It's looking good at least. Will water test it in the morning. *Gulp*

I do like one of the bathrooms they've done, it's a 2.5 hr video all said and done, and I did get fed up of the quite blatant sales pitches in segments of it.

Ever seen any of the SkillBuilder videos on YouTube? They did a bathroom build and used some sort of tape to seal the bath to the tile backer board - looks like it was sponsored by Abacus Bathrooms as everything was their stuff. Probably not airtight tape, but it's the first time I've seen that done.

New windows arrive today, woohoo. I'll be fitting them over the course of the next couple of weeks. The majority are relatively standard uPVC units. When fitting the glazing units should I just use the supplied packers and trim, or would it hurt to seal the units into the frame using a silicone adhesive too? I noticed that's what Rationel do to their fixed units. Am I overthinking things?

CT 1 done. You're right, it was an absolute PITA. I'd need to be some sort of contortionist to be able to reach the far corner with ease. I hope I put enough in. I used 2x full tubes in all. I'll leave it to set today and hopefully tackle the silicone this evening's. Thanks again for the suggestion.

I only remember them from Grandparents house and they looked terrible They might be a good option to allow me to forget about it for a few more months!

It's tiled throughout. Unfortunately this picture, that SWMBO took a while ago, is the best I have right now; The side wall you can't see has the same textured tiles as the rest of the bath, I could potentially knock that off and build it back up again. There's tile trim on the external angle between that wall and the returning, smooth tiled, wall that you can see in the pic.

Remove the ceiling below instead? In all seriousness, floorboards is your only real option. (I need to do the same for an expanding radiator pipe that "clicks" every time the heating comes on)

The guy who originally fitted the bath did build some additional timber up stands for the side facing into the room. No timber down the back of the bath, behind the taps, and I'd need to check about the returning side that runs along the outside wall, I suspect not... I'm coming around to the realisation that I'm going to have to pull it out, unfortunately. I have found a couple of spare packs of tiles in the garage. Do you think I can get away with just removing the bottom row and build it back up from there?

Good question. No idea. Given the gap’s larger than the thickness of 1x tile, I’m hoping it can be wiggled out. I’m going to have to remove the toilet to get it out in any case. All work I could really do without. Pay cheap, pay twice and all that 💣

I suspected that I'd at least need to remove the bath to get this right, which isn't the end of the world because there's a 110mm and 40mm pipe penetration through the outside wall under there which isn't sealed and I can't reach it whilst the bath is in place. I really don't fancy ripping tiles off though. It's the only functional bathroom we currently have, I don't have any spare tiles and given these ones are a couple of years old now, getting an exact match will be a PITA. Is there any middle ground where I can get it good enough without having to re-tile? (When I get around to our en-suite I plan on DIYing it so will make sure that's done properly from the start. )