Roger440

Funny you should say that. Had that conversation over the last couple of weeks. Zero knowledge and no means of moving it are the current barriers. And the wife. But the financial logic is hard to escape. Hired one this weekend for another job. Will be £200.00 all in.

I think i too have settled on the Vortex, primarily as, its a shared system between 2 four bedroom houses, both with only 2 people living in them, and next door are barely ever there anyway. So the adjustability is, i believe, important. However, getting it installed is a different problem entirely. None of their authorised installers want to do it. Too far apparantly. Except im in north bucks, hardly an isolated fringe of the country! Yet anther job i cant get anyone to do

Id still paint the floor first with a decent epoxy, whatever, mats or tiles you might want to get. Anything else just desnt last. The watco website has some good stuff, though its not always the cheapest. Its all DIYable. If it was me id just get some nice thick mats to put where you will be standing once its all painted.

Interesting approach to flashing! Much quicker than what i will need to do

In my mind im going round in curcles, but you are probably right, do this as a temp measure.

Sorry, maybe leading people astray here. I will want to use the stove / a stove at some point, but need to stop the water ingress sort of now-ish. But dont want to have to do the job twice. So if i put a pot on it, i can install a flue later. Equally, being an old house, capping it fully appears to be unwise, i need to keep airflow in there. But there is no lead flasing tray at all. Nothing, just a big hole But you have just me realise my plan is flawed, as once i install a flue, i'll have no ventilation in the stack. Hmmm......................................... Twin pot cap?

Thanks Still seems wrong to me to let water into a chimney, that is no longer used.

Thats what i thought. This chimney building thing is like a dark art....................................

What on earth does "just compo it in" ,mean? Seems odd for it not to be watertight. Surely thats the objective?

Id say the diminishing skill is across most trades, not just building. Its the modern way!

Im thinking this might be the easy way! But how is the pot secured to the cap. Is it really just mortared in? How is that ever going to be watertight?

Ahh, right. No intention of doing that. Need to keep it ventilated so was intending to put a pot of some sort on there. The intention is still eventually to have a stove, albeit probably oil fired at some point. My mind is now running away with the design of said cover, so that i can dismantle to retrofit a flue at some point............................

Sadly, like a tool, i didn't!

Done plenty of much more complicated tin bashing, but sadly all my tools are in storage Including my 36 inch metal folder, double If i have to make something it will be stainless. Im only doing this once. Bit of dynamat on the inside should subdue the noise enough. Nobody sleeps in that bedroom. Why do you say dont use the stove?

Thanks Peter. The house, well this bit is about 200 years old, and as far as i can tell had its original open fires until 2006. I had looked at that idea, but it looks a bit odd, certainly here. Next door have something similar to the pic ive posted. (its a semi) Thinking it might be a good temporary fix until i can find some "proper" to do it, the flashing and a few other roofing jobs.

Surely lead would need support??? was thinking something like this??

A bit of guidance please? The wall / chimney breast in the upstairs room is a bit damp. So i finally managed to get up there today and take a look. Basically, its just an open square hole. Can see all the way to the bottom, ie ground floor. So no surprise it gets damp as its raining inside the chimney. There is a wood fired stove in the living room (that ive not used). This in front of the old chimney, with the flue going up and then into the chimney at 45 degrees. But it doesn't continue up through the chimney. For now, im not bothered about the stove. But i do need to stop the water getting in. So i guess i need some sort of stainless cover with a pot on top. Much googling has revealed nothing i can buy / have made over here, though plenty in America So what are the recommendations here. Trying get anyone to come and do this seems to be impossible, so im going to have to do it. Ideally it would be something i can add a flue to later when i get round to sorting out the living room and installing an oil fired stove rather than the wood one and poison myself! Piccy from the ground.

Some people think this is the steering wheel.......................................

To keep the price down on their expensive doors compared to the competition. 95% wont know or care, The other 5 % (you) do, so you will just pay. Once an established patter emerges in a market you have to advertise the same way or you will lose out. Ask me how i know (ok, car parts, but still.....)

Seals were good on mine. However if you recall, it turns out the doors were not actually fully insulated as quoted. I did bugger around a lot to get the seals tight though, but as all the bracketry was adjustable that wasn't a problem. till got to do it all agian now

My BCO wanted to know why there 100mm of eps under my garage slab.I told it him it wasn't being heated, just wanted a stable enviroment to keep cars in. He was happy with that and asked no more questions. The intention was of course to fit heating, but as ive moved now, its doing exactly what i said, maintaining a stable enviroment for cars. All thats in there is a dessicant dehumidifier keeping the chill off and humidity at 50% The threshold still annoys me though. I cut the EPS away to the depth of the block paving that meets the base, but my biggest error was not insetting the base in front of the door. as a consequence, there is 6 inches of concrete outside. But given the slab area is over 60sqm, its probably not actually an issue. Its pretty snug in there as it is.It is exceptionally airtight.

Been asked before, by me as well as others. Not seen any proper solutions yet. At least not that can be driven over.

Was that just mopping it, rather than painting it. If so, great result. Very satisfying when you get that level of improvement!

True. But we are going to build a railway so even more people can get to the south east quickly!!! To just make it worse still........................

I too used the Acheson and Glover stuff to do a retaining wall. There blurb says no cals needed upto either 1 or 1.2 depending on the system if i recall correctly. Dead easy to use. I used it because i was very near trees, so long term likely to be some movement which these should cope with and a brick wall wouldn't. I would never build a brick retaining or garden wall again.