Roger440

I made it out of bits of XPS insulation board, glued and screwed together so it was a snug fit over the entry point and the 2 return pipes. What i never did do was sort out the open pipe from on the settled sludge return. I was going to put a pipe on this so instead of it just splashing about, it would run downhill into the water and hence be quiet.. The downside of that, is that you then cant really see if you have that set at the right rate, so it would need to be easily removable. Like Joe90, i fitted some foam to the inside too. Addtionally i had decking over the top. Still wasnt happy with it. Ive moved since, but there is no way id locate a plant anywhere near the house again. Fortunately im on a septic tank now. The vortex might be good in some respects, but it has some obvious flaws, one of which is noise, the other is the tendancy for the settled sludge return to get blocked. The noise issue would be easy for them to solve. I wouldnt buy another.

Dont remember the pic. But it was much the same back at my old place in Bucks. We were the only house without one, but i got all the "benefits" apart from heat from everyone else. Absolutely no need for it. No one was doing it to save money or as primary heating. No such problems where we are now, though we do have one local who burns everything and anything. Fortunately for me, we are upwind of them and 1/4 mile away. If i lived next door to them id be rather unhappy.

No WBS here. But a small gen set instead. Ideally, that would be paired with batteries for max efficency. Not only will it create way less pollution, everything in the house will work too. Really need to get my auto switch over system installed.........

Not sure what this posts contributes. This is about DIY installation. I for one couldnt be less interested in building regs approval in this scenario.

If the house was 100% air tight and theres no "leaks of water, then yes, in theory it will stay at 50% However, no house is air tight, and an older house probably very much NOT air tight. My house, even with 2 people living in it, takes a week to go fro 50 to 60% , which, logically is our prescence plus some degree of infiltration from outside, where its currently 99%. A de-humidifier will have a dial to set what level you are targetting. Set it to, say, 50% and just let it sort itself out. Any heat it generates, just means less heat required from whatever other source of heat the house has. If theres no actual water leaks into the house, then to be honest, its a cheap simple fix. You original post suggests the structure is dry, in which case, not much else to do. More technical, clever solutions are of course available. Edited to add, if its been damp for a long time, it will take a long time to bring it under control as everything thats absorbent in any way, so all the sift furnisjhing, carper, anything made of wood, plasterwork etc will all have settled at the background level. Some of this will take months to dry out.

Indeed. But the problem here is simple, so keeping it simple.

As a short term fix, get a couple of de-humidifiers. If you get dessicant ones, they generate a degree of heat too. Eventually, you will get to a sensible number, say 50%. Once there, see how long it takes to start to rise. If its rapid, then you really need to understand why. Several have said ventilate. Thats great, so long as its lower humidity outside than in. To an extent, thats going to depend where it is, but its been pretty much 90% and over here since mid July here (mid wales) apart from a few notable days. Opening the windows to ventilate would make things worse, not better. I suspect, a lack of ventilation management of any sort just sees the humidity climb ever higher. The above is what i did, the house was humid, mainly as not inhabited for 10 years. It took 6 months of running 2 de-humidifiers to get to the point, where it now sits at 50% and requires, maybe a couple of ours a week of one de-humidifier to keep it there.

This is exactly the approach that causes ever increasing amounts of flooding. Having lived in a flood prone house the willingness people have to ignore Suds, for that is what you are doing, im well aware of what goes on, and how useless most of the schemes, signed off as they are, are. All your attenuation tank needs is a one way valve on the outlet so it cannot "back fill". They cost a tenner. I see no excuse here for just dumpng the rainwater straight to the brook. Which is what Suds is supposed to prevent. You may be able to persuade the BCO it is OK, but that just highlights how useless the system is, becuase you will have circumvented Suds,.

Absolutely this. Putting your house, things in it and other things you have at the mercy of organisations whose only motive is profit. Have we all forgotton rings little expoilts. Once you invertor is built in, whats to stop them taking control, and demanding £5 a month for having it working? Im afraid its a no from me. As Nailbiter says, without consumer pushback, we will see more and more of it. Sadly, i doubt we will see consumer pushback, people seem completely relaxed about it.

The problem is you go can never really know how good response will be. Yes, some compnies reputation is better than others, but quite often that counts for nothing, or its some bizarre fault they dont understand. Id rather not put myself in that position in the first place.

Im with you 100%. If i cant fix it myself, or at the very least, identify the defect myself, then it isnt getting fitted. Well, certainly not for anything important, like heat and power. Being reliant on "support" likely means whatever it is wont be working for extended periods if it goes wrong. I get that limits my options, but so be it.

Because the internet always fails. Its what the internet does. Everone has the internet drop out from time to time. If i want something to work reliably, the last thing id do is connect it to the internet!

Indeed. Why would you want them connected. Its only going to fail.

Depends who they complained too. Its it was to you, thats fine, if it was to the council, that, effectively, stops the clock. Though if they take no action, thats debateable.

Im inclined to agree with this interpretation.

Within 4 years. After that, you are in the clear, like most other planning breaches.

If you insulate externally, the floor will still be connected to the ground, and the arches connected to that. So the arches will still be a cold bridge regardless. Unless you clad them.

I cant speak for the small print on your warranty, but you have no comeback on building control. They are protected by law from any responsibility. (which is why i always question what actual use the whole process is?) The advice to persue the builder would seem correct. Trading standard wont be much use as houses are not covered by the normal consumer protections.

Where are these 3-4 apprenticships? Like i did in fact. Nowhere to be seen. Which is no doubt part of the problem.

Sorry, i dont understand this?

Thats interesting. Does that mean you are effectively exporting at the same cost as purchase. I ruled out exporting, partly because i have a spinny wheel meter.

Doesnt work like that. You get what you are given. Which will be the square root of bugger all.

You have my sympathy.

Unless you specifically asked for something breathable, its almost certain its conventional render/pebbledash. But if you dont have any damp, thats good news. Its not a given you would have. The leaving a small cavity approach can work, but it will need ventilating, and needs to be done such that the cold fresh air doesnt leak into the house elsewhere.

A damp house will always feel cold Damp walls are a thermal disaster. Fix the damp (as suggested above) then worry about the heating. Sadly, its a minefield.