SteamyTea

I go along with that. One of the problems that all trades suffer from is jargon. Something to just stop that would be a good move, then people can start talking a common language.

Someone, over at the other place, designed a simple system that was, on the face of it, under tubed (may have been flat panels). His thinking was that by eliminating all risk of boiling, the control system was simple and reliable. I seem to remember that worked well at scavenging to raise the base temperature up. I can't remember what he did for the final temperature boost though. Probably electric immersion. They are always good.

We used to put our sheets of plastic in a large, low temperature oven before vac forming. This drove off any moisture and made the process easy. The most sensitive plastic was polycarbonate, that took days in the oven. I can't remember what ABS was like as we usually injection moulded that, but the pellets still got dried beforehand.

Probably best not to call your BC Officer fat.

Is it one of those jobs that is a pain in the arse, but relatively easy, or one that is a PITA and difficult. I would think the second as you have to make sure that you do not damage anymore pipe and then the cleanup of said pipe has to be done well. Would it be possible to mark up the floor with a felt tip pen where the pipes are. If you use a good one, nice and fat and inky, it should still be visible after after any tiling has been removed. No good if it is a polished concrete floor.

What can be done to repair a pipe once it is drilled though. Or how easy is it to repair a broken UFH pipe.

Just a couple of weeks to go. Then I can write it up in the best undergraduate fashion i.e. late at night and quickly.

Pick the nearest station. https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/climate-historic/#?tab=climateHistoric Local rainfall and flooding are not always directly connected. You have to take into account the local topology and rain catchment area. Then look at all the measures that have been taken to mitigate it. And that is as well as looking at local geology.

They have one called 'Tropical Pressure' down here. Would hate to think what the SI derived unit for that is, probably 'E's'.

Do you think I could use one to pre-heat the water in the header tank, which is almost above the bath? Snap

I got loads of them kicking about, could set some up and see what is happening. Not taken the bath panel off in over 10 years since I fitted the shower pump. Probably about time I had a look in there (soft water is great). A mate of mine did his second year university project on waste water heat recovery. All I seem to remember is that he thought the extractor fan took out more energy from the bathroom than the waste.

Something I may look at, sometime. Can't remember, do you have one fitted @jack

I had 20% knocked off because I live in the ex-industrial wasteland that is the horror of Cornwall.

I bought the cheapest one from ScrewFix, I am amazed how good it is. Similar to this one. https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb515stp-15mm-electric-nailer-stapler-240v/99925

I think there are still not any confirmed cases of legionairs disease, as opposed to the presences of the bacteria, caused by DHW systems. I may be wrong as it is a few years since a heated debate about this happened over at the other place. When I worked for the council, we had all the taps and tanks tested, part of the system got closed down and sterilised. Up until then, no one had reported any symptoms. After the system was isolated, a few people got ill and blamed it on the water. Go figure.

I have wanted something like that for decades. My cheap weather station is spookily accurate when it comes to predicting cloud cover. I wish I knew how it did it. I have looked for the algorithm online but had no luck finding it. I believe that you can get an API (whatever that is) for the MetOffice data. May have to look at that sometime. I was bloody cold this morning, but house was at normal temperatures. It has brightened up now, so feel a lot warmer.

My Aunt lies in Canada, 10° South of me, in Cornwall. So a lot more sun power as well as a lot more snow. We have palm trees down here, just like they do in the Isle of Skye. But they are not real palm trees, they are Cordylines. There is a Banana tree in Penlee Park, but never seen a banana on it. But back to ST, shame that there is not a simple, cheap drainback system anymore.

Have you factored in that DHW is pretty useless below 30°C and has an upper limit of 65°C (though that can go higher when grown ups are not looking).

Just been reading James May's ManLab book. There is a section about wiring a plug, as well as making a concrete kitchen top.

You may want to hold on a couple of weeks as I have been running one of my Silly Sunday Experiment (actually 50 weeks so far) about the thermal properties of different masses, but identical volumes. The data will show what is happening, not looking good for added mass. I also have some house data from a new build, hardly any difference between the heated and unheated sections even though they have very different masses.

What I did, but added about 150mm. Part of the reason I limited my E7 window to the last 3 hours of the period was because I use most of my DHW first thing in the morning. Since changing my cylinder a year ago, I have not got around to fitting any temperatures probes, should have done it at the time as I don't fancy the doing the job now. One thing I have thought of doing is to fit some probes to the header tank, then I can see how much the temperature varies up there. My summer DHW usage is significantly higher than my winter usage, so would be interesting to see if it actually costs more.

Just had a thought while enjoying a hot bath. Heat loss from an off the shelf cylinder can be quite high. I calculated that my losses where at least equivalent to my usage, and sometimes higher. To get around this I added extra insulation. This lowered the losses considerably, as did lowering the storage temperature. Worth considering the size of the cupboard that the cylinder is in, and how easy it would be to add extra insulation. Not to be outdone on the charts, here is May's mean energy usage by hour. I am usually up by 6AM, so water heating is between 1AM and then. I have limited the E7 window so that it now starts at 4AM.

Yes, I have seen what it has done to my best mate (though he asked me for 50 quid the other day, I refused, and not heard from him since). If we legalised drugs, I am sure we would see the same problems that alcohol causes. Legalisation does not mean safe. Most car incidents happen below the speed limit.

Ah, Matlab, I still feel the cold sweat of university. ST has a few maintenance issues that need to be considered, PV is, generally speaking, either working or not. Also it is much easier to route cables than pipes. You can use a heat pump to raise the temperature of your mains water a few degrees, then for the final push from say 40°C to 55°C use the immersion heater from the PV. As for the best way of doing this, it is difficult to decide. Two cylinders is probably the answer. A lower temp one feeding the higher temp one. As an example, I have a simple, vented, Economy 7 cylinder with a capacity of 200lt. I run it at 50°C. This is generally enough to for 2 showers and a bath per day. I can raise the temperature up to 65°C when I have people to stay. That gives me more capacity without having to turn the secondary 'top' element on. I had a lodger once that was under the assumption that the time to finish a shower was when the water ran cold, left me with a £2000 water bill. I trained her up to take much shorter showers. It worked, she could wash in 3 minutes in the end. Limit the flow of the showers to no more than 9lt/minute. Mine is 11lt/minute and very nice.

Really a case of making a simple model of the house in Excel and changing the numbers.