SteamyTea

Perversely, if I used more DHW, my losses would be lower. It is a quirk of Economy 7. One thing I did several years ago was to limit my E7 window to the last 3 or 4 hours of the period. This stopped the cylinder sitting there at maximum temperature while I slept. He had a combined DHW cylinder and header tank, so rather hard to reduce losses. I just have a bog standard vented cylinder, so the losses should be about the same as an unvented one (assuming similar shape, size, insulation levels and temperature range).

I think they test in a slightly peculiar way. They start with a cold cylinder, heat it up, run some water off, which refills the tank with cold water. While measuring the heat loss. So basically they are testing the lower thermal value of the heat loss, not the highest thermal value. So in effect they are measuring a temperature difference of about 10 to 15 °C rather than 35 °C. All a bit a cheat as it does not take into account issues like Economy 7 heating where the cylinder may be unused for 18 hours. @JSHarrisknows a bit more about the testing standard. I measured my DHW losses a while back (I measure everything I can) and regardless of which method I used, I always had very high losses, in the order of 3.5 kWh/day. My DHW usage was around 1.5 kWh/day. I added a lot of extra insulation and got it down to a more reasonable 1 to 1.5 kWh/day, but that is really still too high.

I have a picture for sale called 6°F. Only one person has commented on its meaning. She did not buy it.

I have now learnt a new term. Gish gallop = talking bollocks

You can treat it like any other heat loss problem as long as you know the surface area of the cylinder, the thickness and conductivity of the insulation, the temperature of the stored water and the temperature of the room. Just a bit of arithmetic. Who initially plumbed it in to the main cold tap. Sounds like a bad installation. My Mother lives in a hard water area, she, at 90, can top up the softer with salt.

Except they were in the Monday Club. The Monday Club was for the builders that got so drunk on the weekend they were not capable of turning up on Mondays. So they met in the pub Monday lunchtime. Or maybe that was just High Wycombe builders.

It was non global, just a local event. There wasn't one, never was. It was misinformation by climate change deniers. This was more a wet period rather than a warm period. Quite often done before the data is released, but can easily be checked up on. Rather a clutching at straws argument as we have satellite data as well as many more weather stations. It does if it has already been answered. I had a girlfriend that would keep asking the same question, but with different words, until she got the answer she wanted. The final answer to her was 'I think we should go our separate ways'.

Except Heat is the old term for Energy. Why we use terms like kWhh and kWhe Could stick a thermometer in one, or an energy meter. I can see what you are getting at, I had a car that had a broken fuel gauge once. I found that out when I ran out of fuel. I think this is why the newer storage heaters have more sophisticated controls, they make it easier to understand what is happening. This is really historic and came about in the 1950's and 60's, a time before microprocessors. There was also an idea that the countries nuclear power stations would deliver electricity that was 'to cheap to meter'. Life don't turn out like we imagine.

I think MacKay addressed the 125 kWh/day figure in the book. It is a long time since I read it though. Seem to remember that it also includes "stuff". I think Primary energy is really the better figure when talking at a national scale. Harder to know what it is at a local scale though as we do not know all the efficiencies off the top of out heads. The difference between Primary and Delivered makes it hard to compare some things, vehicles for one.

More like 0.8%. I work on 0.25% conversion and that is before combustion losses. Plants are just terrible at converting sunlight. If plants were good, we would not be using solar panels, or burning fossil fuels for that matter. I calculated that if we burnt all biomass on the planet, and that includes the sea, we would have enough energy to last 400 days. I am in good company there as Prof Brian Cox came to a similar conclusion.

I can't, in the medium term, see much difference coming for domestic users. People struggle with dual pricing already. If that was changed to even triple pricing, say day, evening and night, the general population would just not get it. One only has to listen to You and Yours to realise how people fail to understand even basic price switching, let alone variable rates.

Cornish Hedge, proper job https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cornish_hedge Should cut out some noise bird.

Called Economy 7 isn't it. Used to be a third of the price, now it is under half the price of the E7 Day rate. Not surprising as the idea was to mop up excess nuclear during the quiet times. Not much nuclear online these days.

ICE cars have a gas peddle and gearbox. So think of it as the input being like the gearbox, it limits the maximum speed. The gas peddle finely controls the speed for any given ratio. So that is your output. Higher gear, little throttle, you go further, low gear, heavy foot, you don't go far. Simple.

One way to look at the disparity between the EPC/SAP and reality is think about what a good job you have done. Shame I did not read your meter when I set up the logger, and when I was last over. But according to my logger, you have used 6,109 kWh of electricity. That is only about a third larger than mine, and your house is at least 4 times larger. 6,109 / 200 = 30.5 kWh.m-2.year-1. Apart from the energy input from that smokey wood burner that is. Still, most of that goes up the chimney.

I don't know what an OAP is. My Mother is 90, she would understand it. She understood the mathematics of some multi-directional arithmetic I was doing a while back. A work mate of mine is 35, he don't, nor does his wife. So not an age thing, more a case of not having it explained correctly. There is less terminology than characters in a Soap Opera, or players in a soccer team, less to learn than in the Foxtrot. There are a few OAPs on this site, not counting myself in that group yet.

This is the problem with the EPC. It is really the underlying legislation/standards. They are generally worse case scenarios or the complete opposite. Nothing self builders can do about it. Except put in some PV on your huge garage roof. You like roofing, pull it off and fit some integrated panels, they will help keep the garage cooler in the summer. Your B is just one above my 1987 built timber frame house

No, because it is the input. There are two main things that govern the performance of a storage heater, the energy stored, which is in kWh and the power they can deliver, which is measured in kW. Think of it as a box of hot stones. The greater the number of stones in the box, the more energy is stored, that is the kWh's. If you take a stone out you are delivering power, power is kW's. So dividing the kWh by the kW, gives you the amount of time that the stored energy can be delivered. So varying the the amount of energy in the store, the kWh, by adjusting the the input, also changes the amount of time you can deliver power for. If you only have 1 kWh stored and you deliver power at 1 kW: 1 kWh / 1 kW = 1 h Sometimes this is hard to understand because the units kW and kWh are so similar sounding, even people that used them day in and day out often get them muddled. It really comes down to SI units and there derived units. SI units are things like metres, seconds, kilograms. From these we get derived units. These have symbols and names such as J for joule, W for watt... A J is a unit of energy and derived by multiplying mass, in kg, by distance, in metres. A watt is a joule divided by time, in seconds, so J / s = W. This can quickly lead to very large numbers, energy is often in the millions or larger, giga, tera multipliers. One thing done to reduce these large number is to change the number of seconds into an hour. There are 3600 seconds in an hour. (I may have not explained that too well, ask @Ed Daviesas he has something up on his website about it)

This limits the maximum temperature that the bricks get to (generally on older storage heaters). It is done via simple thermostat that just cuts the power. The reason that it is there is because it is impossible to have a storage heater that is perfectly sized. By limiting the brick temperature, the total amount of thermal energy stored can be controlled. So say you need 12 kWh of energy stored, but you can only get storage heater in 10 kWh and 15 kWh, turning now the input control, a 15 kWh store can be reduced to 12 kWh. If only it was that low, I suspect that 95% of users have no idea how to set them. That is about 6.5 million people that fell asleep during science lesson at school.

If you mean automatically set it, then no. They are very basic electro-mechanical devices. Thing is, you should not need to. First things to check is that all the elements are working, then just set the two dials in the mid position. See what happens. I know this is not the time of year to do this, but it can wait until the right time as any repairs should be easy and quick. Or just replace them. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Type/_Heaters.StorageHeaters.html

That reduces the solar gain to a certain extent. More in your case as you have rooms in your roof.

In input dial limits the maximum temperature that the bricks get to. The higher the temperature, the more energy is stored, but also the more losses. But it does mean that more power can be delivered. There is generally a sweet spot for storage heaters. I set mine so that both dials are at 6 (half way). If I know we are in for a few days of extra cold weather, I turn the input one up. warmer weather, I turn it it down. Sometimes I forget, but soon realise and can then adjust with the output (flap) knob.

Probably both, we live in enlightened times.

It does, but as the area that strip covers is small, not much heat escapes. It is really to do with stopping the convection, not radiant heat. A radiator is really a convection heater. They would have to be glowing to radiate a decent amount of heat (opinion is divided here, but that is another subject). Just take it as read that this small, think strip, does stop most of the heat escaping during the charge up period.

I use an old CurrenCost device with an optical sensor connected to a Raspberry Pi. I wrote the code myself, so not perfect, but it does work. I set one up at @Joe90 house. That one has the more basic and less accurate clamp on sensor. That is chugging along nicely and I can even remotely access it when I am parked in his drive. I have seen some designs for a basic optical meter, these read the red flashing LED and intend to make one up and see how good they are. The trouble with homemade stuff is that there is a lot of fiddling about to get the data off them as one needs to get them networked via the home router, or your phone.