SteamyTea

Possibly, but there are so many words in them, I would need to print them out. Giving it a go now, it usually drops off the network within half an hour.

Not got one of the as I only have storage heaters. Do you log electrical demand data?

Getting via ssh when on the USB to Serial always works (as it should). I have read this, my network is my phone, or my neighbours WiFi, not sure how to turn it off on phone. The unit I fitted @joe90's connected up right away after almost 18 months being left alone. So I don't think it is a router problem.

I have 3 RPi Zero W. Two happily connect, and stay connected to the wireless network, but one just keeps dropping out. The only way I can restart the WiFi is to reboot. This seems to be a known problem, but no definitive solution. I have tried a batch file that pings one of the good RPi's address, but it drops out. Tried a crontab command to stop and restart the wifi, if it has already dropped out, it don't reconnect. Even put a line it to stop the power management turning off WiFi. I have also tried most of the solutions online, and like most of the people that comment, it does not solve the problem. So it may be a hardware problem and just getting a few new ones may solve it, but was hoping someone with a lot more networking experience knows the answer.

Reminds me of this tune.

I have tried really hard to get rid of parasitic loads. Now down to 0 W, 55% of thee time. Easy for me as I live alone.

Do you know what devices are causing that?

We need there local planning officers working over here.

To heat the local environment. Having a quick, early morning, look at the Weston Power site, they have a value tool. https://www.flexiblepower.co.uk/locations/western-power-distribution/value-calculator Looking at Mullion you can earn £34,513.66 for connecting up 1 MW of generation (terms and conditions apply). But for Isles of Scilly it is £2,809.56 And the Hayle-Camborne is only £1,239.42 Not sure that that correlates to, but I know a flower farmer at Cury, told him 20 years ago to get some big turbines on his land.

This is what I hope to find out, can log at the minute interval, or finer. Yes it will, it will do nothing to change the thermal properties of what is already there. Yes, see above, but all data is useful when it comes to modelling. It may show that it is worth having extra insulation on north facing wall, rather than assume that the difference will be too small to bother with. Same as above, but the other way around, it may show that less is needed, and what the wall, rather than the windows, contributes to overheating.

It is now unnecessary. You can get wireless switching, which gives greater flexibility as you can use any socket or existing lighting circuit. Why waste time, and cash, on all the extra wiring. I have never bothered to work it out, but I would not be surprised if the length of wiring for the light circuit in a typical house was greater than the power outlets circuits. To give you an idea of what I mean, the person who designed my house assumed that the front door would be used as the primary entrance. The car parking is at the rear, so we all use the rear door. The light switch is on the opposite wall from the door. Now to put this right with traditional wiring would be a major job, pulling up chipboard flooring, drilling though joists, wall chasing. Much easier to just get a wireless switch and remember to change the battery after 300,000 uses. As it is, I know where the switch is and walk the 3 paces to it. When I press the remote on my car, the interior light comes on. I have had the facility for over 30 years, and I buy cheap cars, but not in any house I have owned (though this is the newest house I have ever had).

Is this partly because the domestic electrical industry has not kept up with changing demands/trends. What people where happy with 30 years ago, i.e. two sockets in a bedroom, maybe 4 in a living room, is now so out of date where even a TV needs 3 sockets, and aerial and an internet connection. Surely it is time that conduit was run around the place so new cables can be more easily run, no more pulling up floorboards, let alone chipboard boards. Plumbing seems to be going in the right direction with UFH and manifolds. Wiring seems stuck in the 1950s, people are still fitting 5 A lighting circuits FFS.

Welcome. Buy one. They all need work. Improved insulation, airtightness and proper ventilation. And then you can work on a half decent heating system. A2AHP would be my choice. Could even fit it in with a a ventilation system.

As it is 20 m from the sea, was it just wind damage. Seen roofs missing after storms down here and after talking to people, seems an extra large wave, and the associated spray, caused the damage. A properly installed GRP flat room will last decades. A badly done one, weeks. GRP work should not be done by normal builders. There is much more to it than just mixing in lots of hardener and slapping it down.

Interesting. Why is the PF for AH Bunkers Hill Solar A - Solar and Battery 7% lower than the others, except for BOC Fawley (a customer), which at 65% is worrying.

Is that the old Fawley oil powered site?

Well I have cobbled together some kits, so BME/P280s and some DS18B20. Left them on the window cills logging away, while I am away. Went I am back, later in the week, I shall fit them in the proper places and see what comes out in the wash.

Yes, maybe ask for it is white Russian pine, or vodka. We swapped some old military gear for Bulgarian tinned tomatoes in the early 80s.

Last time I made a comment similar to this, it got deleted. I see that the bank rate in Russia is now 20%. Worth putting a few quid in surely.

I see they do a 400 W module. I am tempted as I could get 2.4 kWp on one side of my roof. This is a useful amount for me.

I have mentioned this before about performance warrantees. The way it works is as follows. Say a manufacturer makes a batch of modules, nominally 300 W ones, when they are flash tested, ones with a higher performance i.e. 310 W, and ones with lower performance i.e. 290 W are labelled up to the next lowest performance range i.e. 300 W and 275 W respectively. So say you were lucky and got a batch of top performing 300 W ones, so 310 W in reality. It is easy to see how a performance warrantee of say 90% performance after 20 years is offered as it is not taking into account the over production in the first decade, and you are working on 0.5% loss per year of the nominal performance, not the actual performance. Trouble is, the customer will notice a quite large decline in overall capacity over that time. The other problem is that in the last two decades, the performance has generally improved from 250 W to 330 W for the same form factor. So by over paying for a warrantee now, will just take cash away from retooling in the future. Generally, do what the big solar farm developers do, buy the cheapest per peak watt.

Weston Power Dirstribution has a map. Don't know what any of it means (can't be bothered to look into the detail). https://www.westernpower.co.uk/network-flexibility-map-application I shall let others look at the detail.

A public, council controlled, swimming pool is pretty good. Very good safety record.

Odd that, in 1984 I moved to Buckinghamshire. I watched the roads around London become the M25. Things vastly improved in 1986 when it was completed. What used to be a 3 hour journey to Gatwick became an hour and a half. It is still an hour and a half.

Ask his views on all metal fixings. Swimming pools have chlorine in the water. This can cause a lot if problems.