SteamyTea

Who is doing the technical side?

No wonder the MVHR has broke.

Having lived in Weymouth, Portland has many more problems than just wind. Have refrained for mentioning the unmentionable.

Does not come across well on here sometimes. I was cooking lunch, so only half a brain.

That is because they are the Fire Brigade, not the EA.

Do you remember this. 3 plates of spagetti.

Chapter IV of the Industrial Emissions Directive You may get an excemption.

Not legal now.

But no better than electrical resistance heating, and more expensive to buy. The OP wants free heating.

Told you before, this is illegal and must not happen.

Shredded paper, old duvets/blankets. Yes, air2air ones. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324884906941

Beat me to it. The refrigerant gas is at around -23°C, so still 18°C to play with.

Yes. You can use all sorts of different materials. All they really have to do is trap air in small pockets. You could fit a secondary, dark coloured tin roof to the south facing side, leave a gap between it and the original (now insulated) roof, draw out warned air with a small fan. May even work with cheap, clear acrylic sheeting. Maybe keep an eye on on eBay for cheap PV modules and a few old storage heaters. Just pump the juice into them and if it gets too warm, open the door.

Chiltern Hundreds. Chequers is in one of the Hundreds.

(expletive deleted) all loft insulation.

If if it was so, you would be overproducing hot water. I am sure every real engineer involved in the hydrogen economy knows the truth, a resistance heater is easier and probably, including infrastructure costs, cheaper. Not as if there is no infrastructure costs needed to produce hydrogen. The fixation with hydrogen shows a lack of basic physics and chemistry. If we take todays electrical infrastructure, it can reliably supply 60 GW. We very really use that much. The UK is currently using ~43 GW, so we could store that extra 17 GW in pumped storage, compressed air, thermal and chemical devices. Come tonight, we will probably be using ~25 GW. So plenty of spare.

If you know all the dimensions of the external walls, floor, ceiling/roof (depends on if a cold or warm roof), doors and windows, then multiply the relevant components by their U-Values and then multiply by the heating season temperature differences i.e. 1% at 30°C difference, 20% at 25°C, 40% at 20°C and so forth (get data from PVGIS or similar). That will give you a rough estimate of what those losses are, then you add in the air change ones, work on 5 ACH, you need to work out the volume for this. Then add the DHW load i.e. 2.5 kWh per day per person. That will give you a rough estimate of the energy needed, the kWh. Divide that by the number of hours that the heating will run for i.e. 19 hours (because you may need 3 hours to heat the DHW), will give you the power, the kW, of the heat source. A proper thermal survey will do a room by room heat looses as that also sets the radiator/UFH size and the room temperatures.

By first working out the heat load your house needs. Can't be worked out the other way around i.e. what size house will a 6 kW ASHP heat.

No. Macdonald's cheeseburgers. Only £3/kWh. Bargain in food terms. My engine gets pretty hot. Not as hot as my first car, that got so hot it burns the head gasket away. For at least 20 years people that claim to know have told me that Redox batteries are the future. Mate of mine was selling them. Well actually he was not selling them. Had a great calculation to show that they were the cheapest on the market. When he quit (when his own money ran out) he told me that my ballpark figure was much closer to the truth. Think it worked out at 65p/kWh then.

After 3 hours drive today, I am enjoying lunch at a motorway service area. Cost me 2 quid. Bargain. Couple of hours left to do, then a coffee in town at nearly 3 quid. They must be running the coffee machine off a Model X.

Not how I plumbed in my system. I pump from they cylinder on the hot side, and from the F&E on the cold side. Pump was 100 quid in 2007 when I fitted it, still going. No need for thermal mixers, just set the 'tap' to same place (easy as it is a lever) and scrub away. Using a relatively low DHW temperature gets rid of the scolding risk at root as well. I like to keep things simple.

A vented cylinder does not require a certificate either, though if you fit a pump for showering it may well require a Part P sign off.

I have been wondering about this, but if they are managed carefully i.e. 15% discharge rather than 80% discharge, and with the latest design chemistries, it should not impact too much, especially if the power draw is small i.e. 6 kW. Some EVs have now done 500,000 miles on original batteries. https://electrek.co/2016/11/01/tesla-battery-degradation/ I still think it is an unnecessary thing to do as the battery pack and management system in a vehicle is heavier and more complicated than what is needed for a home. Not as if we carry a slab of windturbine foundation in the boot of the car to 'show how green' we are.

You are not doing extension and home offices. Unless there is another reason.

I think it shows on a desktop, but not on a mobile.