SteamyTea

And tissues.

Damp chalk and timber. The thing is, any contribution to thermal stability is overridden by the form factor and window to surface area ratio.

Depress the latch lever as soon as you finish applying. You can get silicone sealant remover, but white spirit works as well when it is still soft. If you are using polyurethanes, I have told you what to use many times, but as you decided that it gives you cancer, even though its main usage is to get the caffeine out of drinks, I can't be bothered to tell you again.

Welcome I have been thinking about replacing my garden shed for at least a decade, there is never any reason to rush into these things.

Try using Thermal Inertia or Thermal Effusivity depending on context (usually surface area with buildings).

Bit late to the party, but when looking at different temperatures in different rooms, you need to know the thermal losses for each individual area. Once you know that, you can play around with pipe spacing to increase or decrease output. A low temperature heating system is not run like a traditional heating system i.e. blast of heat, then switch off. They can be set up to match the varying building losses as they change during the day, seasons and extremes. Regarding the floor insulation and carpets. If there is low thermal resistance between ground and floor, and a high thermal resistance between floor and room, then you are heating the ground more than necessary. As this is a 20 year old house, do you have any idea what the air leakage is like? Have you thought of ventillation strategies? It is china plate

Is one advantage of a split system, in the UK, the 0.6m3 rule (though this may have been relaxed with recent planning rule changes). Means you can get a larger ASHP because the outside unit is all radiator and fan, and not all the other gubbins like heat exhangers, pumps, electronics etc. I also think that a split gives a slightly better CoP, but probably a marginal difference. The inside part of a split system does not have to be in the actual house, can easily be fitted into an outbuilding, or a dedicated 'box' on the side of the house. Really just depends on how easy it is to run the main 'wet' pipework. (I have often thought that gas boilers should be outside in a cabinet).

Could you have learnt about it any other way. Probably not, so a lot achieved.

I believe that EU wiring regs are based on our legislation, with a few minor changes for local markets. The UK was the first European country to embrace electricity with major developments in the 1920s and 1940/50s. Why we have a very robust national grid.

Purely guessing here, but it it a safety feature of that RCD i.e. double isolation. Or it could be that some stray current from something in the house i.e. a capacitor in a charging circuit, put enough juice down the line. I think RCDs are omnidirectional, but as I said, guessing here.

Instantaneous current is infinite. It is more the nature of inductors, rather than the size of the load. Why we have capacitor start and run. Charge the capacitor first, then dump the coulombs into the inductive load. This is often done with electronic control now. AC or DC, makes no difference, just something to be aware of.

May have a high start up load. Induction loads are pain.

Yes. Even a cheap planer/thicknesser, when new, will do a decent job.

Yes.

Worth having a scout around the inter web and see if there is a crack available. Many software packages use the same algorithm for key codes.

I am mentally punching customers, and staff, every hour of the day.

Yes, I work for penny punching people.

Run them through a cheap thicknesser. Lot quicker than sanding, less mess and a better finish.

Yes pine.

How much you spending on your build.

Many years ago when I was adding extra insulation to my loft, I created a condensation risk spreadsheet. Seem to remember it was pretty basic, but as I have not had any problems in 18 years, it must have been accurate enough.

In the last 6 years she could have restrained to Masters Level in Thermodynamics.

Rather a small system Try kWp

Probably is. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_barrier You need to get the gm.m-2.day-1 from the makers. Moisture Vapour Transmission Rate, MVTR and this.

Not for me. It really needs grinding down to the GRP substrate, cleaning and then reapplying. Polyester resins generally bond to other polyester resins quite well, before they are fully cured (a day or two). After that, they are not to good as the free styrene has boiled off, even as low as 10°C. This is partly why self-etching resins were created, it made repairing boats easier. Wax additive, which makes for a nicer finish, is paraffin based (usually) and works as a release agent. A light sanding will, initially, seem to be good enough, but generally, over time, delamination will take place. I used to make steam room from GRP. Steam and thermal cycling is how resins are tested for longevity (with UV lights). Took me quite a while of seeing failures before I got a decent combination of resins that could be cycled reliably, every day, for a few years. When I left the company, the guy who took over decided to change just one component, failures started in weeks. I am still smiling about it over 30 years later.