SteamyTea

Ohm's Laws.

That will be a 2m by 3m shed so an area of 6m2 You are after 4m by 6m, so 24m2. 4 times the size, not double.

The options I showed. This is often the problem with energy comparisons. I wonder if anyone has correlated the efficiency of MVHR against HDDs.

Did it have lots of 'thermal mass'?

That was my thinking. By maybe we should say it could/should have been. A warm room is just a tilted wall after all.

Compared to what though. May sound an odd response but you would save the running costs by switching your MVHR off and the building airtightness would remain unchanged (may get a bit smelly indoors). Doing that is not the same as comparing a house with an ACH figure below 1 with MVHR and a non MVHR house with an ACH figure of 7. Volume of the house makes a difference as well.

There is a fig tree in Moron Gardens that I always admire, thought about pinching a fruit and seeing if it grows in a pot. How long a cutting would I need to take to get a successful cutting?

Does B&Q still have a pensioner day on a Tuesday. Failing that, a Garden Centre.

Make sure you have CIL exception if it applies in your area. Download the latest Building Regs and keep reading them. Plan your build to comply with them (use their examples if you can) then Building Control should not give you too much trouble.

It is hard to get two hinges perfectly in line with each other, each hinge has three degrees of freedom, so two hinges have 9 and 3 hinges 27. So what happens is that a slight misalignment causes movement in at least one hinge, but most probably in all 3. This causes the screws to be stressed and start to damage the timber they are screwed into. As for a fix, get all three hinges inline, properly, then use some non expanding PU adhesive down the holes in the frame. Spray the screws with a bit of WD40, screw it all in place and wait till the adhesive cures. Do not overtighten. The WD40 will act as a release agent for when you need to remove the screws.

Half of the originals are alive. If you want to see pensioners, just come to Cornwall in September.

Welcome. I like doing things 'on a budget'. Seems a lot of the self build expenses are the non building things like surveys and professionals fees.

Welcome. Trying to help him makes me wince. But he is the expert at unblocking SaniFlo's.

My Russel Hobbs induction hob can also be wired in as, what I think is really called split phase (2 of the 3 phases), but I have it wired in as single phase. I asked @ProDave to confirm. I did post the question up a few years back. I have not melted anything yet. As an aside, I bought some cheap Russell Hobbs kitchen knives, fiver for 3. They look identical to the ones from ProCook that cost 4 times as much, each. I can testify how sharp they are.

Does the local West Indian community call that pub 'The Batty Boy' by any chance.

To add to this. As the ventilation is uncontrolled, who knows where the warm, damp, internal air is leaking out to. If the leaks where dispersed uniformly, and not near any timbers, then maybe condensation would not be a problem. But I bet even the worst builders can't make every square metre of exposed wall equally as bad. Forced, or a better term is controlled, ventilation gets around this problem.

If you plant two like that, you can hang a washing line between them.

There used to be a small wind turbine for sale that plugged in. So may have been legal once, or the company may have just not bothered with any certification. The DNO will probably still have to be notified for safety reasons. Still sounds good.

They should be driven daily, that way they will be off the road faster. (Have had 3 and will probably get another one day, but they are shit cars really)

It regularly snaps holiday makers surfboards.

Was my daily drive back then. It was considered a banger, cost me £250 in 1982, was a mere 13 years old then, younger than my present car. Ran it for a couple of years, but can't remember what I did with it, probably scrapped it.

I used to do a lot of kayaking, was not unusual to put a K2, which was 6.4m long on a cheap 1970s universal roof rack. On the top of an MGB GT. I always tied the ends down as that stopped movement and bouncing. Needed a flag at the end as well. Make a triangle from the end ropes if you can, that stops the loaf shifting side to side. Accept your paintwork will get damaged.

Well one advantage of doing it yourself is you don't have to think up excused. Keep posting the interesting bits up.

Think it of it as how much fuel is in the car (thermal capacity) and what MPG it does (thermal resistance or U-Value) As a general rule, the faster you go (bigger temperature differences) the more fuel you use (greater thermal losses). Easy now isn't it.

That is an interesting question. You can work out the thermal inertia for each element, from that you can calculate the power delta over time. As long there is enough stored energy in the floor to last 18 hours (for a cold winters day), the difference then gets taken up by the insulation thickness. s = J m⁻² K⁻¹ / (t i u) Where tiu is the thermal inertia calculated from J m-2 K-1 s-½ for the materials chosen. Easy.