SteamyTea

See above

It becomes everyone’s problem. The 16A limit is a maximum, the DNOs know that it is very really reached, and if it is, not for too long. It is similar to using a 13A plug. It can take 13A for a short amount of time, but only 10A for extended periods.

But for more time. There will be very few hours a year that your thingy is 3.68, more likely 2.5. By adding a bit more juice to your thingy, it will be closer to the 3.68 than it was. So it is important to the local grid. If you were to export 3.68 24/7, your local wire would get too hot. (I am talking cm not inches)

You are getting the power limit on the inverter and the energy exported confused. The mean power exported will be higher, which will raise the total energy exported. It is those kW and kWh again, those things that you don't think are important.

Fumed silica thixotropic powder is about £40/kg.

I have the same problem with my wallet, when it is my round. @Pocster said similar about losing his virginity.

Hello again. Interesting problem. Is the raise in temperature caused by workshop activity, or climate forcings?

I wonder how my better it is, thermally, than AAC.

Welcome. Noise reduction is an interesting area of engineering. The automotive companies refer to it as NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). When you think how quiet a modern car can be, especially when it is made from 0.8 mm steel, with 12 mm of soundproofing material, openings etc, and an engine racing at 6500 RPM, less than a metre from your ears, it goes to show that material density is only a tiny part of it.

May be useful as a first pour in a retrofit, then cover with PIR. As a finished floor, I would be wary. I used to know a guy called Ewan, better known as Dr. Cement form Newcastle. He helped me a lot when I was developing the RTM tooling.

Expanded polystyrene beads in concrete, all held in place with powder silica (they call it aerogel, but it is not really) as a thickening agent. Used similar to make some resin transfer moulding tooling about 35 years ago. You could make your own mix up quite cheaply, but would need a bit of development, which is really what you are paying for. Nothing really wrong with it in principle.

A stone flung out the lawn mower is probably the most likely to break one. As for wiring safety, some conduit on the cables is probably sensible, and probably a legal requirement. Depending on number of panels, the voltage can be up to 1000.

Quick reminder. Power is kW, energy is kWh. I have not had a clothes dryer for years now. My biggest energy saving device was a £1 washing line and pegs from Poundland. If you feel you really must use one, get the most efficient heat pump one, but still air dry what you can. If your house has MVHR, that will really help, if not, put clothes on hangers, hang them in the curtain rail and crack open the windows in that room. As for batteries, they are just about price neutral over standard rate electricity if you use the stored power sensibly.

Tony Blackburn, the DJ, sister had one. She loved it, used to see her tootle into Poole most mornings.

Well worth a read if you think that the rest of the world is not doing enough to reduce emissions from electricity generation. https://ember-energy.org/latest-insights/global-electricity-mid-year-insights-2025/global-analysis/

Set BEVs back 25 years. Some the the guys at work really bought into the concept. Most of us just thought it was a replacement for this.

I did some work on the C5. Had to black out the factory windows.

You can get cylinders modified from the usual standard setup. Maybe 2, 3 kW elements in the top third, that would really heat up the water fast. Then 1, 3 kW in the base to take advantage of excess PV generation i.e after batteries are charged. Can also be mains powered.

Was better than that. Think this was the page. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/27460-diy-gshp/

The voltage at max power is 33.91. If it is grid connected it will be pulling the maximum power possible. So you will be just above start up voltage. Either more panels or a different inverter.

There is a blog on here where someone made their own heat pump from an old freezer. But the cheapest A2AHP is probably best. I have just bought a 45 quid diesel hot air heater to play with in my shed.

Yes, if the batteries are 48V, then it is only 5 kW (ish). (been a hard week as I did an overnighter for the first time in years)

Is that correct, it would shorten the life of your main fuse.

Wish our showroom had that conversation rate, though our metric is spending per head.

No, they are, as @-rick- says, just instantaneous electric water heaters. They are fitted after the DHW cylinder and with the more sophisticated models, modulate to keep a constant temperature and flow at the outlet. The problem with using immersion heating in the cylinder is that there will be times when you may need to heat a depleted 300 or 400 litre cylinder up by say 20°C, rather than just the water that is needed i.e 60 litres over 20 minutes. This affect the total power requirements needed.