SteamyTea

That is odd as PV modules are fixed voltage devises (they are diodes). More investigation would be needed there.

Do you ever want to remove it? A high modulus silicone would allow that with a bit of leverage.

I was going to suggest gaslighting, but can't be bothered to convince you are all wrong.

Welcome I ate a Carolina Reaper whole and raw, then did not drink anything for 10 minutes. I prefer the Gaudi stuff in Barcelona.

Having been involved with leisure club and centres, as soon as a swimming pool is involved, the job becomes a lot harder. Whoever designs for you, will need to know their materials as they need to be corrosion resistant and able to handle relatively high temperatures and humidity at 100% all year around. Air handling (HVAC) has to be considered at the start, not when it becomes a problem. Do you really want, what I assume, is an expensive car next to a pond of chlorine?

Welcome. South West is a large area, seems to cover anywhere from Swindon to the horror that is Cornwall. But we give short shrift to pansies.

I didn't, but it has been over a decade since I was involved in specifying systems. Still no consensus on whether to earth or no. We never used to, and I am not sure how sensible it is to inject a DC voltage down the neutral side of the incoming supply (TN-C-S, protective multiple earthing). Probably not a problem at 20V, but 600V, even for a short time, may cause issues. As for lightning strikes, a bit of 4mm cabling won't help much when 1 GJ of energy goes though it.

There has been a debate, for at least 2 decades, about Earthing PV panels (and frames). Some inverter manufacturers say not to, others say you must. What does the SMA documents say for your inverter. There is a difference between transformer and transformer-less systems. Bit here about it. https://www.renewsolar.co.uk/uncategorised/delving-into-bs-7671-section-712-and-solar-panel-systems/

All our saunas were made with white pine, usually Siberian. Siberian pine is often called cedar or dwarf cedar, even though it is not a cedar. So be careful what you ask for. Benches were made from Abachi, often called African Whitewood.

I use 5G, have a look at the providers and see when they are upgrading the infrastructure. No idea about Starlink, quite expensive isn't it.

Try this https://uk.farnell.com/nxp/mpxv2010dp/pressure-sensor-10-kpa-1351-01/dp/1608916 I think it is what I bought.

Yes, so would need two. Possibly, I can't remember. I did buy a couple of small differential pressure sensors, but never got around to using them. Not even sure where they are now.

Many farms I have dealt with have split phase. Split phase is part of the local grid voltage balancing system, may be the same in countries that use it more i.e. USA. (There is Phase voltage, L1 to N, and Line voltage L1 to L2. Line voltage is phase voltage x √3)

Think the biggest problem is legislation. This ranges from quality of supply to building and connecting new generation. All put into place for good reasons, but then executed by morons.

I have often wondered about all this. Never got around to looking at it closely. While there is energy to be scavenged when water vapour changes phase to liquid, is there really enough grams of it to make a real difference. If the outgoing air is at 60% RH and 21°C, there is about 0.011 kg/m3. That is about 7 Wh. If the incoming air is at 30% RH and 5°C then 0.002 kg/m3. Or about 4 Wh. So at very best 3 Wh to be reclaimed for every m3 shifted, but probably half that. (it is late and have changed my phone that is my hotspot, so had to find out why all my monitoring kit had stopped working, why do manufacturers change IP addresses for no advantage, so my mathematics may be a bit wonky tonight)

Welcome Did you do that or was it already there? Devon has Community Infrastructure Levy, so if exemption not properly in place, you may be into a charge already. There are way to build a house cheaper, it generally involves a rectangular box with a simple pitched roof. First things first though. As others have said, take a few steps back, do lots of research, especially about the legal and legislation sides, don't even think about Architects or 'designs' at this stage, and ask a lot of questions. It never ceases to amaze me how much knowledge there is on here.

Pythagoras has something to say about this (from beyond the grave, it is All Hallows Eve after all). A pitched roof area would be greater than the ceiling below it, so a lower U-Value is needed. As others have said, better to add to the ceiling insulation. Good luck convincing your Father, tried to talk mine out if buying a Fiat Regatta, instead of a Ford Fiesta as a family run about 35 years ago. The Fiat was dreadful, was worth a few hundred quid after 3 years.

That is Water Gauge, which is a pressure. One inch of water is 490.08 Pa. A pascal is a derived unit of pressure [kg.m-1.S-2] or stress [kg.m-1.S-2]. Same units however you look at it. Then we have the Cold or Warm part, which allows for different properties at different temperatures, which makes the BME280 even more suitable.

The BME280 works in the range you are after, can you cobble up something with one of them and a Raspberry Pi?

We fitted it, but then the MD of the company used to be a photocopier salesman. Looked good, but like most multifoils, really is pointless. A sauna is full of slots, holes and badly made doors, so vapour moves about pretty quickly.

I would be worried about using PU/PIR. It is not really designed for prolonged high temperatures. Mineral wool is what we used. Commercial installation had a number of quite strict electrical and fire rules. There is a section about 'hot boxes' in the wiring regs. If building it inside an existing structure, you need to consider forced ventilation and humidity control. A bathroom fan does not last long at 100°C. (A lot of saunas are only run up to 80-85°C, but they are for fairies, did a few for jockeys, they slept all night in them if they were overweight)

Would be my choice. Sit outside for a few minutes, towel off, then pop your Crocs on and walk into the house. You will need water there, or at least a hose pipe for cleaning, so make sure you fit a drain in the floor. Then you can just hose off in the sauna. If you sauna properly, your neighbours will be the sweaty ones watching your naked antics.

Have made thousands of them. As long as you can lay down in it, it is big enough. Don't get an infra red heater, they are truly dreadful.

I suggested it to a senior manager at Seven Trent Water about 15 years ago.