SteamyTea

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tape_correction_(surveying) Can do more than that. https://www.mathsisfun.com/sine-cosine-tangent.html Also worth noting where 0° is, which direction the angles are counted (clock or anti-clock), if degree or radians are used, and precision and accuracy (how close they measurements are to each other or the true value).

I have an interest in climate change, even bothered to go to university to study it. My interest is quite niche in that I was studying the effect of cloud cover, which is not the same as the studying the effect of climate change on cloud cover. Yesterday's Inside Science was was about geoengineering our climate, mainly adding aerosols into the atmosphere. Not a good move in my opinion as it does nothing to stop ocean acidification, which was not mentioned on the program. l last year, there was an incident of excess worming in the Atlantic, many down here (in Cornwall) liked it as it meant they could go swimming. In June, 2023, it peaked at around 19°C, which is about the same temperature it peaks at in in August. I am not sure of the long term affects of this marine 'weather' event, but there will be some.

That is a good question. I would give it a go, as long as you can, if needed, put the airtight, but water vapour open membrane in place if you have to. In fact, give it a go now and see what actually happens. How do you intend to monitor the air quality on the void?

Fantastic idea, be great cleaning off the baked on bodyfat and pubic hairs.

This is not a MCS assumption. This kind of figure, if used consistently throughout the heat loss calc is down to the person completing the heat loss calc. Most input from the MCS (based on the CIBSE design guide) is 0.5 - 1.5ACH so what you've seen is a fault with the installer not the underlying calculation method When we talk of air changes and hour, are we assuming this is at 50Pa. When a house is at close to atmospheric pressures, the infiltration may be a lot lower.

Some say they have been robbing us for decades.

So it is a patent/copyright/IP dispute, nothing to do with actual building material quality.

As long as you have ALL the pipes well lagged, there is no problem about where you fit the UVC.

I wonder why they stopped using it, probably caused confusion as HDDs can be a little bit strange if they are used incorrectly.

One way to get around low power demands is to fit two separate systems, say and A2A and an A2W. Not really any different than what a lot of people on here do when they fit a fireplace, or a FCU. It may cost more for the hardware, but that could be offset by much better efficiency. Do any of the models use heating and cooling degree days as part of the calculation? That can show that by dropping the internal temperature by 1°C there can be a saving of 15% energy. All to do with the temperature differences distribution. If say a 10° ΔT account for 20% of the heating times, and you can change that to an 11°C ΔT, then you save that 20% of whatever the power needed at that original ΔT was.

31.9 kWh is about aa 'therm'. A UK therm is 105.5 MJ or 29.3 kWh A m3 of natural gas is 10.55 kWh (I think) The condensing is occurring in the flue gas. There is lots of water vapour in the combustion air. I did see something online about getting over 100% efficiency from a gas boiler, think the claim was that the arithmetic was a bit dodgy, but as I only have electric here, I did not take a lot of notice.

I believe it.

@Onoff Like @Pocster they'll always find a back door to finger?

So btu/h, fluid oz, feet, pounds and tons of refrigeration. I have never understood the measuring system in the USA, and then they through in watts, must be done for a laugh.

Welcome. I like Brandford on Avon. There person that convinced me to go to university to study renewable energy moved there (may have moved out now). Is the Dandelion cafe still in business? Think you mean an Air to Air Heat Pump. I am not sire of the practicalities of fitting a bog standard A2AHP into a ducted forced air system. An old girlfriend of mine had ducted forced air and where the furnace was was quite a large cupboard. Much of it will be down to sound transmission and how well ducts are insulated if they go though a cold area i.e. loft. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115537790345

Get her sanding woodwork for a day, then point out that a fingerprint reader will never work. You get a day's sanding done as well.

@ToughButterCup Told you to poison the pond before you started. Best survey is kerosene and matches.

My £90 android phone has a fingerprint reader on it. How can £800 be justified, or £300 for that matter.

Ah, Buckinghamshire, I know it only too well. As in my previous post about using your gas usage data to estimate a heat pump size, it really is worth modelling your house. Luckily there is a useful spreadsheet on here that has proved to be fairly accurate. Not hard to fill it in once you have the data. Heat loss calculator - Master.xls

The heat loss calculation may be based on a room by room weighted average. This is done to calculate the size of the room emitters. Just taking a few measurements i.e. min outside air temperature (OAT) and mean power delivered by boiler does not show the full picture. What you need to do is do more measuring. You need to know the temperature difference between inside and outside (ΔT = OAT - IAT). The ventilation rate in kg.hour-1 (kgair = m3.h-1 x 1.25 kg.m-3). An assumption of local ground temperature (8°C is usually used, but you can measure the mains water temperature as that is often piped under the building). The amount of solar gain, which is a combination of floor area, window size and orientation and the local weather. This will give, if averaged every hour, a mean W.m-2 number. Then you need to know the U-Value (W.m2.K-1) of all the exposed building elements, so floor, walls, doors, windows, ceiling/roof. Added to that are the periphery and corner/cold bridge losses. Then, you house has to be modelled at the hourly level (an hour is a reasonable thermal response time). From that the energy use distribution can be made. That will show the amount of time during the year that the house is actually being heated, or cooled, and can be correlated to the hourly gas usage or the corresponding time periods. You also need to know how efficient your current boiler is, not just what the manufacturers say. A heat pump is not used like a gas boiler usually is. They are kept switched on and if weather compensation is used, adjust themselves, within set limits, to get better efficiency. So while actually gas usage is useful, it can easily cause a person to install the incorrectly sized system (usually oversized).

My cheap Android does. Just go to the Play Store and download one https://play.google.com/store/search?q=spirit level&c=apps

I agree. Going to be a long time before we stabilise the atmospheric CO2, then we can start tackling ocean acidification. Since I moved back to the coast, my local sea level has been rising at 6mm/year. Don't sound much, but with higher atmospheric temperatures comes, conversely, greater low pressures weather systems. These are what causes the serious coastal flooding. As for pylons. There used to me a coal fired power station at Hayle, there was talk of building a nuclear plant there, but the story goes that the Cornwall has too high a background radiation level. Some of the infrastructure was put in, these include several different overhead power lines that crisscross the towand (dunes) and the A30. We don't notice them these days, they are just part of the scenery.

Had a quick look, most of it is generic stuff like cables, switches and connectors. There are the modules and batteries, then the charge controller/inverter, the MPPT and the communication device (which is probably not needed, but is used to set up the system, so will be needed, think of it as a specialised spanner). As it is all Victron kits, I suspect it is well sized for the system and won't be unreliable, why you pay a lot extra for it, they have done the leg work. I am sure of you ask Bimble, they will have an installation guide.

You can. It is how regulators, and indicators, worked in Morris Minors. They were fantastically reliable, lasted 15,000 miles, sometimes. If you want to heat water directly, you could fit Solar Thermal. The m2 efficiency is better than PV. Crap in lower light levels though. As for the reliability of electronics, that is usually down to capacity mismatch. Why they usually have a continuous power rating and a peak power rating. Show us all what they are and I am sure someone can do a sketch, or RTFM.

You make no mention of the boiler size, or the expected heat loss of the building.