SteamyTea

I would not install a panel sauna outside, always a log one. We never insulated log saunas, just fit a larger stove to reduce heat up times. Even at today's electric prices, probably only a couple of quid an hour to run a small one.

There were two clubs in North London when I worked in the industry, Rio and Rio 2. Both were brothels, but gave the impression that they were Health Spas. The owner Trevor, put on the best parties ever, much better than the ones in the film Sexy Beast.

Not really, see above. We used Vapac steam generators, quite reliable even in a hard water area. As a general bit of advice, fit a decent floor drain in both, it makes cleaning easy.

So a 6.88 kWp install. The p just means peak power. Now you will very really hit peak power, it relies on the sun being in the right place, the sky clear, the temperature optimal, and economically somewhere dump the power to. Most inverters can handle quite a bit of overpower, 20% is not unusual. The datasheet will tell you. So you could probably safely get a 6 kW inverter. As you have a 5 kW limit, you need to find an inverter that can charge batteries on the DC side or you may be missing out on opportunities to charge i.e. when you are generating more than 5 kW and the inverter is limiting the overall output. As for batteries, my view is they are a nice toy, but will cost you money. Water storage via a diverter is worthwhile though. So bearing that in mind, buy a cheaper, bog standard, 6 kW inverter, fit a diverter, forget the batteries, and therefore the hybrid inverter and wait until the market for home generation matures. But get your students to make a decent, open source, energy and temperature logger, the data will tell you much more that a salesman/installer can.

Blend in power from the HP or a secondary resistance heater if you have some spare PV generation. I think trying to power a house purely from stored energy is difficult and requires demand side management, so much better to take a pragmatic hybrid route. If it was easy to 'batch charge' the power requirements, then we would already be doing it, not as if any of this is new technology. (I use the term 'power' to mean any sort of energy per unit time i.e. thermal, electrical, compressed air etc)

I would turn it off, then if there is a problem on your return, you know for next time.

So an 8 KW inverter, rather than an 8 kW, and the battery is 10kw rather than 10 kWh. This gives a total system power of 10.9kw.

Check out the prediction with PVGIS. Micro inverters and optimisers are really only installed to cover shading problems, and were often oversold. Hard to tell if they are needed without seeing the proposed location. Normal PV modules have bypass diodes in them anyway. Those diodes cut out any shaded cells and then the inverters maximum power point tracking can deal with the rest.

I have built saunas, probably a few hundred of them. There is nothing clever about them, sounds like the ones you were in was panel construction, though log saunas are usually used outside. The heaters are just resistance heaters from 3 kW upwards, they usually change to 3 phase once they hit 9 kW. The 'coals' are just lumps of granite. They protect the electrical elements from direct contact when the water is poured on. There is be a temperature sensor/thermal fuse hidden away somewhere in the cabin that is wired back to a controller. That controller also has a timer in it that limits the amount of time the sauna can run (this was a safety feature introduced back in the 1990s). Lighting was ultra low voltage, 24V usually, but that has probably gone LED now. As you observed, they are just sheds with large heaters in them. Our panel saunas were insulated, the log ones were not, except for the roof.

I find that torture. Sometimes I get a tiny bit of a question right.

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/ventilation-approved-document-f

Kinky (expletive deleted)er. Did you ever see Private Schulz, Salon Kitty was the parlour name.

Right wing pressure groups more like. They can hear turbines that are stationary.

We had a thread about 3 phase net metering a while back. There seemed, at the time, to be a lot of confusion, but from what I understand, it is something you need. Then you can easily add different amounts of generation, including zero, to different phases and not loose any because your phases are not perfectly balanced all the time.

As you know about this stuff, and it is the only lecture I missed at university in 6 years of studying sciences, how about starting a topic on it as it is quite interesting. Noise as a nuisance is much more than just ASHPs so much of the science is important to house design.

Welcome Jacques. I like timber as a construction material, and specially if it can be made as modules in a shed. Where did you work out n the film industry, I did some work in that field a while back.

Why would you want a second bed above the best one. Not sure who would like it more, William Shakespeare or @Pocster.

Well mine just ground to a silent stop on a junction.

I heard that @Pocster was the town bike.

If you can only install internal wall insulation, then you will probably want to install a vapour control layer on the room side. This VCL stops the water vapour condensing as it hits the colder structure if the house. "Insulation" or to use the proper term, thermal conductivity has 3 measures. The intrinsic material properties, the k-Value. This is measured in W.m-1.K-1. When the thickness is taken to to account, it becomes resistivity, thickness (length) in meters divided by the k-Value. R-Value = length / k-Value. The size nits become m².K.W-1. To get to the more useful U-Value, W.m-2.K-1, the reciprocal of R-Value is used. U-Value = 1/R-Value. It is generally easy enough to get the k-Valueb of a material, but realistically you need to be looking a foamed phenolic sheet. There is no reason why you cannot mix and match insulation types, as long as moisture transmission is thought about and catered for. So you can put IWI (internal) on the front, and EWI (external) on parts that the public don't see. The biggest problem with EWI is size of roof overhangs and around window and door openings.

Can you still register your car as a minicab to get around the congestion charge/ULEZ?

It might be worth asking the local planning office if they have an equivalent standard.

Paris is quite warm in the summer, mean is above 20⁰C from end of April to almost beginning of October. So just ventilation is not much use. Maybe duct in a dehumidifier.

Is that diameter? Or 300mm on each side. Trouble is that not many experiments that test just for different CO2 variation. Most 'tests' are done without taking humidity and temperature into account properly. Then they need to be repeated hundreds of times. Very hard to to in a double blind, randomised fashion. But it don't matter, people will believe that it is the CO2 as they think they can control that easily and it is the only thing that can make a difference.

I suspect my old Yamaha YDS3 was more polluting than nearly every car made in the last 40 years. Being a two-stroke it always sounded broken and was dreadful of fuel. I keep looking out for a Kawasaki H1 Mk3 for a 'final ride'. From Wikipedia Handling characteristics were not favorable according to many sources. "Viewed logically, the Kawasaki H1 had many flaws. The gearbox was odd, with neutral below first, the brakes very questionable and the handling decidedly marginal in every situation - except when the bike was stopped with the engine switched off. Not for nothing was the H1 known as, 'The triple with the ripple'"