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SBS DP Compact, single module RCBOs go to 40A. SBS do the bigger, standard height 50A RRCB-B50L. This has flying neutral and earth leads and is £12.

The 300 litre pressure vessel is going at the top pump house, so having a gauge on the top of it gives an easy check on whether it's OK, without having to trek to the lower pump house. I have one on one of my pressure vessels, behind the door in the pump house that is in front of the electrics, air drier (for the ozone system) etc, to save me having to open the other (padlocked) door at the other end of pump house to check. Every time I do a check that all's well I can just glance to see if the pressure is in the right range, which is handy. All the larger pressure vessels have a bladder that has a large flange that connects to the ring, secured with loads of bolts, at the bottom, which is also used to pull the bladder in and out for replacement, and a smaller tubular connection that clamps under a tank-fitting like arrangement at the top, fitted with an internal screw and O ring seal. This top fitting does three things. It supports the bladder vertically, so that is cannot fall to the bottom and get creased and wear, it stops the bladder from twisting in use, again to stop wear and it allows access to the water inside the bladder, so that an accurate measurement of pressure can be made. When you buy a replacement bladder there isn't a hole in this top tubular bit, you cut it to size after fitting. There's a description in the replacement membrane fitting instructions that gives an idea as to what these things look like inside: http://www.zilmet.co.uk/uploads/documents/38/Membranes___Flanges_V5.pdf Worth noting that the general rule is that blue tanks have potable water EPDM bladders, red tanks may or may not have potable water bladders - best to check, as some manufacturers use a different material for hot water EVS, that may not be suitable for potable water. Having said that, one of my tanks is red yet has an EPDM membrane, so is OK for potable water. You're right @Nickfromwales, the top fitting is usually 1/2" BSPF, with a sealing screw at the bottom and a plastic cap over the top. It's also externally threaded on the bit that clamps the top of the bladder to the tank and maintains the seal. I fit a 1/2" BSPM to 3/8" BSPF adapter to the top fitting, using PTFE tape, then screw the pressure gauge to that, again with PTFE tape. I'll try and remember to take a photo later.

it worked! Many thanks for your patience!

I'm on iPad right now and did the above When the box pops up it should have the text already in the box. Like this. Then just tap on that text to get a cursor and then tap again to get the slelct - select all tab. Choose select all. Then select all, then copy and your done. Just try again. If you duplicate post I'll just delete it for you

Just found diagarm for changing y connection at sewer into 90 degree bend on different thread ( dont know how to quote that thread on this thread), but thanks to @Nickfromwales. Easy when you know how!

When my floors use engineered joists I specify that the maximum acceptable deflection must be the lesser of <8mm or 0.002 span, NHBC allow 12mm and 0.003 span, which I feel is very bouncy, but is probably aimed at house bashers with more of an eye on costs than customer experience.

Looking again those strong backs look a bit small. Ours just abut fill the gap between the top and bottom chord.

I'm not keen on the sticky pad type traps unless people are willing to check them very regular then humanely deal with the trapped mice/rats (which doesn't mean drowning!), but I just had to photograph these ones when I saw them. It's a bit blurred as the guy in the shop was watching me suspiciously as I got my phone out to photograph them (probably after I burst out laughing pointing them out to my daughter) so I had to snap it quickly in case he objected. As you can see, its a curious sort of "rat" they feature (Rattus GuineaPigus I believe)