Well, spend £500 on timber to keep me busy...oh how I forgot the fun of working outdoors in the rain.
Shed didn't look big enough so made some running adaptations, a metre here, 900 there?
It's now 4.8 * 3.5m...manly shed I'd say.
Hi Joe. We had the same problem as we originally specified a I-joist portal frame - essentially they cannot calculate the shear forces in the joiner plate against the web - or rather they can but the manufacturing method would be critical and the joists are not built to be reliably calculated in this mode. Both the joist companies looked at and the SE and came to the same conclusion. I have done some tests and I tend to agree that its hard to get a reliable strength. Someone sent me off to find a steel portal structure that did not extend the beam depth in the centre down to take account of the 'flattening forces' and I couldn't find one, so have to agree with today's technology it cannot be done in I-joists.
Putting in a ridge beam means that the load is not transferred across the roof but down onto the the beam in the middle and down at the walls. In a traditional trussed rafter roof the whole thing is trying to flatten out and its stopping that where the ridge joint and associated calculation comes in. Add a ridge beam, itself supported by uprights somewhere, supporting the ridge and that problem goes away. (Edit: Although there is still a small component of force pushing the wall out)
Just an update. Spoke to HSE today and they confirmed what my architectural technician told me, that I do not need a PD as my house was already designed and approved. They told me to just put my name as the PD on the form.
I was thinking (after a few beers) of pimping it with LED floods.... I strapped a couple of rechargeable LED floods to the boom: boy what a difference!
At least when you use german I can use google, This norther talk is just getting silly,
Nice to see its still in tact though, also a very rare sight to see the light on a digger arm still attached and working
Bet the start of that video touched a nerve, trouble getting it up.....things flapping about.....Faye laughing.....
Seriously, interesting read here including leaving the clay exposed to frost in the old days of brickmaking:
http://www.cumbria-industries.org.uk/a-z-of-industries/brick-making/
I tend to go in at the 10 or 2 angle and then use a 45 elbow to drop the water into the pipe - basically it lifts any burrs from the boss above any potential flow and puts the bottom of the inlet pipe at about 80% of the 110mm which is pretty high up.
Whatever's quickest if covering it up!
Just render over the patches tbh BUT...as you've already PVA'd them and it's now dry I'd NEAT PVA it just before you render.
Or you could roughly cut to shape (square off if pedantic) some plasterboard and stick that in the holes or EPS depending how deep.
I've done all of 'em.
@joe90, just in the process of getting our windows priced - once all the errors in the Windows and Doors Schedule are corrected - (trickle vents in a passivhaus, I kid you not). So this thread is perfectly timed. 47.66 square meters worth - so thanks @Mr Punter @Stones, @jamiehamy, and @dimpsy for the guide prices.
Ian