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What nobody has picked up yet, is you have "total control" a Tariff I believe unique to Scotland and no longer available to new customers. It's a bit like Economy 10 in that the the storage heaters and the whole house gets cheap rate for 10 hours a day. BUT it has one BIG advantage that the "A circuits" are always on, and always metered at the cheap rate. These are supposed to only be used for "heating appliances" and typically you will find panel heaters in bedrooms connected here. But you are also allowed to connect water heaters and Showers. So all you need is a wylex 40A rcbo and you can have cheap rate showering 24/7. You lucky b%%$$"£$£$£

I completely agree with @joe90 Floating floors sound hollow, bonded sound solid. Bonded are also less noisy under foot.

Sorry, we're interested in your earthing system as it can impact on the new circuit. Likely to be one of 3 types. Rather than go in to chapter and verse and on the basis a picture says a thousand words you have a pm

Sorry Peter, I probably wasn't clear. I mean to go to the QS / estimating service after I have all my own estimates (I want to understand what the QS says) but before going out to tender from contractors.

How about putting 100mm rockwool between the first floor and attic which will provide sound and thermal insulation and then putting 150mm of Xtratherm between the rafters of the attic and then tape and batten over. It gives you best of both, and then an attic conversion would then need to just overboard the inside with the additional 50mm of insulated PB.

I would open windows on opposing sides of the house and get a draft blowing through. To get a dehumidifier working properly you really need a source of heat too, and as most are saying you don't want MVHR on as it will just get full of crud.

HI @readiescards Obviously you want that insulation on the slope of at all possible. But you don't say what your price is for the Xtratherm. I make it about £25 per sqm of 200mm insulation picking a price off the internet of 36 per 8x4 100mm board. The B&Q celotex deal I pointed out last week comes in at about 21.5 to 22 per sqm, but you would be using 1200x450s at 50mm thick and so more gaps. You would need 100s. Ferdinand

If just submitting your costings to lender then definitely don't waste too much time on mortar! like you say use online calc and multiply if you have a 300mm thick solid wall. Although usually 2 100mm leaves ie times 2

I've got to say I don't bother with mortar mixed on site these days as its a faff and mixers never get cleaned properly ! Local readymix place does mortar tubs that mean I get a full day out of a 1:1 gang and the labourer is loading up etc - also a consistent mix and no piles of sand etc to get full of crud and leaves. I think when I costed it we were on a par for price. Edited to say it's about £48 per 1/3 cubic metre tub which will do 5-600 bricks or 400 blocks.

Definitely has to go inside. How exactly depends on the connector of your laptop SSD. If it is M.2 then you will need an adapter http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2637817/connect-ssd-desktop.html Overall this article seems to give a good idea what different formats you may find inside your laptop and how they fit. http://www.computershopper.com/feature/2016-guide-the-best-m.2-solid-state-drives-tested

That method is for wooden floor as your finished floor. . The only thing I'd add to that scenario is fitting some fluffy ( Rockwool ) under the plates to make them slightly proud of the finished height. That way, when you fix the wooden floor down you'll be forcing the plates against the fluffy and ensuring good surface contact between the plates and the wooden floor. If you look at Frogeyes pics above you'll see how the plates naturally want to sag so that needs addressing with either method, eg fluffy or staples.