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Warmstar - they do a whole kit, primer etc. Tiler really liked their mats as they were properly sticky. I chose the default stat and just binned it, got a decent one from UFH SS. Also got the 6mm insulation boards, latex and tanking from ebay. Would advise getting the digital multimeter and installation alarm as well - it clips on and detects earth and L/N shorts during the install. Take lots of pics when laying, before laytexing etc just in case you need to cut the tiled floor after - my plumbers had to do this to get the waste in for the free standing bath. Was never so happy when they all warmed up for the first time.

If you really are serious about taking a course then there are a number of options. The three that spring to mind are: At the most basic level you could take the H&S Awareness course: http://www.citb.co.uk/training-courses/health-and-safety-courses/health-and-safety-awareness/ Or you can "tick the box" by going for the IOSH Managing Safely cert: http://www.iosh.co.uk/Training/IOSH-training-courses/Managing-safely-course.aspx Finally the "proper" course for site supervision is the catchy titled SSSTS: http://www.citb.co.uk/training-courses/health-and-safety-courses/site-supervisors-safety-training-scheme/ None of them are hugely expensive or contain content that is "challenging". In fact if you can't get through the content then you should probably reconsider self building as you might die along the way I was going to say "its mainly common sense" but that's a phrase that will cause most H&S professionals to spontaneously combust ! Now the word the H&S pro's really love is "practicable" (Note that's NOT practical!)

First and foremost, FIT THE UFH FIRST WHENEVER YOU CAN ! Retrofitting from underneath is simply hard work. @Bitpipe was in the same boat as you, but I managed to nudge him into 'doing the right thing' and he put his plates and pipe in as the build went up. MBC lads joined in and helped ( took over iirc ) to lay it and it saved a LOT of grief. The ideal set of events would be to allow for your posi-joists to have an 18mm batten atop, and then plates. The batten is required to allow you to cut the end for the pipe to transverse joist space to joist space as posi-joists can't be cut. Not a problem with regular joists btw. The main thing, either way, is to make sure the plates are fixed up nice and snug. I use an air powered stapler to fix them to the underside of the deck material so the heat transfer ( promoted by surface contact ) is as good as it can get. The only real tip for fitting from underneath is make sure you have a pipe decoiler, make sure you have at least 3 people on it, and don't be in a rush to do it. Pulling in 100m of pipe is a pain, kinking the last 10m piece and having to pull it all out and start again would be soul destroying. . Cut a few short pieces of pipe and get used to the minimum bending radius, ( before the pipe kinks ), by trying to form 180o bends in the sample pieces. That'll give you an insight into how far you can & can't 'push' the pipe.

We found dipping very tricky and gave up after the first loop. Instead we left out a long slot of deck where the loops crossed over the tops of the joists and then put ply over the top of this. Will see if I can dig out a pic. If Brendan is on your job, he should remember what he did at mine - just remind him about the basement house.

This makes good reading too https://www.aisolutions.co.uk/Community/Knowledge/Topic/11/4/Duties-of-Principal-Contractor This is the whole knowledge base https://www.aisolutions.co.uk/Community/Knowledge/Topic/1001/0/CDM-Knowledge-Base

I'd definitely consider a course, I wake up sweating thinking about an H&S unexpected visit! We are so overlooked and surrounded by neighbours, that it's a definite possibility.

If you lay a sewer pipe properly, there will be no sag. You are supposed to lay it on a bed of pea gravel and then infill around and over it with pea gravel, Yes if you do what most builders do, support it on bricks in the trench, then just shovel the earth back on top, it is going to sag, but no self respecting self builder would do that would they?

Simple folks, just insulate every other pipe in the congested areas . 9mm wall armorflex will be ample.

The amount of ventilation required depends on the square feet of the extension. You need to look in Building Regs part F. If you don't have trickle vents in the existing windows you might get away with not having to have trickle vents. On my refurb and extension, all the windows were replaced and the windows in the new 110sqm extensions had no trickle vents because the old windows didn't have them and I think they are a ridiculous idea! I didn't ask my BCO before ordering the windows and thought I might have to fit an MHVR unit, but I fessed up and my BCO said he was not concerned about the lack of trickle vents.

It's all about planning. you need to be at least 2-3 steps ahead each stage of the build. So basically you have what ever materials ordered up with a delivery date a day or two before they needed incase they are late plus what trade doing the job booked in. Phone a week before they are arrive to double check all is still ok and then maybe a day or two again. Have somewhere to unload the deliveries and somewhere to store them. And double check the delivery docket before you sign it. Get yourself a big calendar wall chart and pin it somewhere that you will see it everyday, not the bedroom ceiling!! Fill this in with the dates of deliveries and when you expect to be moving onto the next stage of each build. Write it all in as you will get caught out somewhere along the line and be paying for some trade to stand there while you go and collect whatever you have forgot. Above all don't get too stressed out over things when they go wrong.