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Put a plumb piece of timber on the block walls at the doorway to allow you to plaster the walls. This will mean that you can leave the door frame out which will give you another few inches which hopefully will be enough to get a larger ts in place. Easy enough then to fit the frame to suit the plaster which should be plumb if the timber was set correct and hang the door. Just use the likes of concrete screws so in the future if it needs to come out it's not a messy job.

I need to create a new thread regarding the extra insulation etc as I've discussed this at great length with Roger at Telford and have been assured the standard ( hi performance ) insulation which is installed beneath the cosmetic metal 'jacket' would perform better than the extra depth spray foam. The confusion was around @Shell820810 's issue when hers turned up with no extra spray insulation, but the metal jacket, which shouldn't have been on it. It boiled down to the thicker spray insulation being cheaper than the high performance insulation and the metal jacket combined, so in essence you'd get a bulkier, cheaper to buy cylinder which had a loss of around .5kw per 24hrs. The exact figures escape me now but you deffo want to order the regular cylinder with the HP insulation and metal jacket. Regarding costs / savings I was assured by Trevor at Cylinders2go that there would not be any premium, regardless, when buying through him ( mentioning the forum and my username ). This is is for a 400, but I think the dia stays the same for a 500 but the height changes to 1810mm iirc. The naked tank is, I believe, designed to fit through a standard 760mm doorway . Just remember that the immersion / s need to face front so you can change them if necessary without removing the cylinder.

For any one doing some outdoor woodwork, Screwfix are selling-off some of their Ultra screws at 70% off or more. Bought a couple of boxes but I'll probably be dead before I finish off the 90mm ones.

The use of Reuters, Megabad, Skybad and Heizman24 for the import of big ticket sanitaryware at much lower prices have been discussed in the plumbing section. I have just come across a German electrical store offering around 200,000 items, in English, priced in sterling. Delivery costs start at abouit £10.80 (12.50 euro). So for those of us thinking of buying Gira, Hager, Jung, Busch-Jaeger, Scneider switches, sockets etc, might want to take a look. www.eibmarkt.com (Note I have used Google translate on German sites before, but this is the first large electrical shopping site I have come across which is in English, with commodity pricing and low delivery costs.)

Looking great - some real progress being made - looking forward to seeing this one go up.

Yes, I remember the post. Just making the point that there may be more to it than being on sand. I don't doubt that what Hilliard specs will work - my limited understanding of this type of system is that it's pretty robust, and there may be several ways of deep-exfoliating the feline.

We have 33" doors and had no bother getting the 500l Telford ts through. @Nickfromwales my sister is looking the same setup as what we have. Should she ask for what we asked for or what we got?

I went with a 300L store. If building again I would go for bigger but we had issues fitting it through doorways. Specify extra insulation if you can.

No problem with weight then, as you can just straddle the two downstairs walls to take the extra weight of a larger TS. If your going with oil then I'd 100% recommend a TS so you can pulse heat to it, as it won't modulate ( as Temp has already stated ). That'll get the best efficiency and stop short cycling so imho is essential not preferential I wouldnt go less than 400ltr tbh, so the design weight needs to be taken as circa 500kg, but if Pv is deffo in the design then I'd say go a little larger at 500ltr ( 600 kg ). Fit it in the airing press hot cupboard and use the latent heat loss to your advantage, remembering of course that this will be hot all year round as it'll be providing dhw. Storing heat for "a c Pv will generate daily, so storing for a couple of days is not a consideration you should be worrying about. If a TS is providing space heating ( as a buffer for the oil ) and DHW, it'll need daily recharge howsoever that's provided.

Mine is on the first floor joists but it's sitting on top of an internal block wall.

Yes that makes sense now. Look forward to seeing it take shape.

When I say to the builder I'm currently subbing to, "I'll be back in an hour with the parts" he asks if that's a builders hour or a plumbers hour...........so when I said later let's assume I meant a day later OK Source : I would recommend Telford. S/S : A no brainer for me, deffo yes. Plumbing : If there are rads and they are regular steel, then there is the problem of corrosion contamination which you'd ideally want to design out where possible / practicable. I'd probably say run the towel rads from a coil, via a dedicated 2-port manifold, and run the space heating ( ufh ) direct from the body of the TS via a second dedicated manifold. Benefits therein of being able to select the time and temp of each application to suit yourself, eg being able to run the towel rads when the heating isn't necessary but warm towels would be nice. C/V/P : Room stats to Ufh control, ( multiple stats for multiple zones if required ). Time clocks for towel rads control. 2-port zone valves to achieve both previous. Pumps on manifolds will suffice regarding flow to the manifolds from the TS. With a TS, I assume you'll know you'd be using a system boiler and not a combi as the TS would typically then provide dhw ?

or this http://www.moorendltd.com/