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Put another log on the fire. SORRY.

Just looking at the meter box wiring for WPower and I've got a quick question that I'm prepared to put to the collective experience..! House will be wired with a remote meter box at the boundary, followed by a sub-main providing gate power and lights, and a separate house sub main. Query is - if I put a 100A isolator into the box, which position does it go in..?? I can either put it before the Henley which splits the load into the gate sub-main and the house sub-main, or just on the feed to the house. I guess the safest way is to isolate everything after the meter which means that both boards can be worked on fully isolated, but I've also been told that some companies don't allow this despite being advised that both methods meet 17th Edition. Can one of our resident sparks @Onoff @ProDave make any sense of this...? I want it to be as neat as possible so its laid out prior to install of the meter and there are no issues.

Bet you didn't do burgers over them hot flames.

+1 our garden is well watered dont read any further if you are having your tea.......... ......ok you were warned: when we first came to this plot we had no connection to the mains, well we did but the pipe had collapsed and the 1950's bog didn't work and had long since dried up. So, I used to place a carrier bag in the bowl. Do what I needed on the rare occasion i need to make a deposit. Tied the bag and chucked it in the fire bin. Simples

Why don't you go and have a look at what Helen and Alistair did in their blackhouse (Tigh Dubh). Can't remember the detail but similar size and issues.

For the bathroom, I would have a conventional flat ceiling. for the bedrom, I would give it a vaulted ceiling, but not just right up to the extreme top of the roof, that would leave a lopsided vaulted ceiling if you see what I mean. Instead, on the wall between a bedroom and bathroom, I would start another "false" vaulted ceiling starting at the same level and going up at the same angle to meet the main roof. like this:

No ventilation gap required if you have breather felt on top of the sarking. There is confusion in this area because I believe if you don't have sarking, you need to leave room for the felt to sag.

We got ours serviced weekly. I think it was £20 a go on a long term contract (might have been a minimum of two months or something). £20-£25 seemed to be bog (ha!) standard around here (Surrey/Hampshire borders). That was usually often enough, but there were a few busy weeks where frankly it was pretty grim by the time the week was up. We rarely had more than about 5 or 6 people onsite at any one time. That's part of the reason I wouldn't have gotten involved with the caravan toilet situation. I imagine it would need emptying every day or maybe two. I don't know how much the chemicals cost, but even if they were free, £20 a week seemed a decent price to pay to have it completely taken care of by someone else.

Iv bought a porta loo for £200 Its in pretty good nick I stopped a guy at traffic lights who was driving one of the suction vehicles He gave me his mobile number and said he would empty it and fill it back up with chemicals for £40 a time Its not that expensive to do every couple of months I should be able to sell the loo for what I paid at the end of the job eing

Cheers everyone, I think you'd be surprised at how useful early stage self builders will find all this! (Apart from the marriage stuff of course - spoken like a true 1 year newlywed!)