A chippie's advice please ... tear - out?

[ToughButterCup]

Is this tear out?

 

I ask because this only happens occasionally, not consistently. Sometimes with the same blade I can get a beautifully clean cut.

The big notch at the bottom left came with the length of wood.

 

[Russell griffiths]

What are you using it for ?why are you bothered ?

can be type of blade, speed of cut, timber type, direction of cut

Quality should be decided by the job in hand, that looks like a bit cls for a stud wall, so that finish is fine. 

[ToughButterCup]

Just interested... its CLS for studding: except I cant see the sodding line....

[Cpd]

What saw / blade were you using ? Being seriously ocd this sort of cut would drive me mad...... as Russell says it’s nothing to be concerned about........  but cuts like that on a regular basis would not pass muster on my site ! 

[ToughButterCup]

12 minutes ago, Cpd said:

[...]

but cuts like that on a regular basis would not pass muster on my site ! 

 

We're made from the same mold, then. 

Bosch 18 Volt cordless, and newish Bosch blade. But I did nick a nail or two the other day .... arggghhh?

Trouble is, that some cuts are perfectly clean

[Russell griffiths]

Ah ha. 

So it’s a cordless hand held saw

if that’s the case the blade rotates upwards so that finish is hard to get a lot better, unless you change blades, my blades on my 165mm cordless are about £12-£14 so I change them every couple of months as the battery power is so much better on a new blade. 

[MikeSharp01]

It is tear out and it's down to the way the blade attacks the grain the rotational speed and the feedrate. If you look at the picture you can see that the right hand edge and the bottom edge are very tidy because the blade is moving into the grain the other edges look to be where the blade is lifting out and the grain is open and not dense. You need a much finer blade running fast,  fed slowly and very sharp to achieve the best finish on all surfaces. Setting the blade depth to just a bit more than the thickness of the material will help as this optimises all the angles.

 

[ToughButterCup]

35 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

[...] as the battery power is so much better on a new blade. 

 

And I fought it wuz me. Yew shoor know sum stuff Russ!

 

@MikeSharp01 thanks very much indeed!

[Hobbiniho]

it also depends on what blade you have fitted generally hand held circular saws or "ripsnorters" as they are called here has a "rip" blade which has fewer teeth than a "cross cut" the clue is in the name, the "rip" saw blade rips bits of wood out (kinda like a chisel) as can be seen in your photo, whearas the cross cut blade cuts the wood, the angle and shape of the teeth is also different between the blades and generally the cross cut has loads more teeth, the more teeth the cleaner and sharper the cut generally, i suspect you have a rip blade fitted hence the poor cut, nicking a nail or two and damaging/ blunting it wont be helping any either

[Onoff]

I wouldn't even contemplate cutting timber for stud walls with a hand held saw. Too rough. Maybe against a fence to keep it square...

 

Nails no problem with my 185mm Evolution saw though!

[Pete]

just use expanding foam to tidy up, you are a dab hand with the stuff!!

[joe90]

For studding it’s fine, the tear out does not affect the structural intergrety, if it was a French polished coffee table that would be different ?. Being OCD is ok in the right place, as long as the finished product is fit for purpose (studding = strong and straight). P.s. I would only cut studding with a “fixed” saw to make sure it was square.

[ProDave]

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

. P.s. I would only cut studding with a “fixed” saw to make sure it was square.

I bought a very cheap Chop Saw on sale at the time from CPC for that purpose and it did great service.

[epsilonGreedy]

18 hours ago, recoveringacademic said:

Bosch 18 Volt cordless, and newish Bosch blade.

 

 

Is your mitre saw out of action?