ToughButterCup Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 ........ because I've never done this before : a dwang virgin in fact. And this so basic, it's embarrassing. First floor board ends between two joists. I need to put a nogging in to support the ends, I think. Does the edge of the nogging have to be in line with the edge of the board ( i.e. 580mm from the other edge) , or can it be placed anywhere between the top chords of the adjacent joists? (POSIs fitted) as long as it supports the fee end(s) of the floor board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Are the boards tongue and groove? If they are, nothing needed for most. We fitted 22mm T&G and was no need to support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Just now, jamiehamy said: Are the boards tongue and groove? [...] Yes, 22mm, T+G on 400 centres (or less sometimes) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 You are talking about the first run of boards yes? Boards are 2400mm long and joists are on 400 centres yes? Why do any of the joints of the first run have to miss a joist? Cut one end where it abuts a wall so the joint lands on a joist. Job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 No noggins required if T&G, but you should be able to work it so you are ending on a joist anyway e.g 400, 800, 1200, 1600, 2000, 2400 I might make an exception if it was a major traffic point e.g first step off the stairs at the top of a landing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 I would just glue the T+G when fitting them together as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 14 minutes ago, ProDave said: [...] Cut one end where it abuts a wall so the joint lands on a joist. Job done. You mean waste some? Well, I'm shocked. My outrage is not at you Dave, its at my particularly stupid stupidity. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 17 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: You mean waste some? Well, I'm shocked. My outrage is not at you Dave, its at my particularly stupid stupidity. Imo, a tongue against the wall looks a bit rough. Cut edges much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 No dwangs needed then. But unless the room and ALL the joists are exactly 400 or 600 centres, then you'll always have joins mid span (starting at the end of the first run). So don't worry about it, once the next run goes in, that first join will be firm. I agree with gluing and screwing. Glue the join, glue the joist. And would strongly recommend Spax for this job. If you can. You are running the boards at right angles to the joists? Just checking, no harm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Start with Groove/Groove against the wall and work off that. That leaves a tongue on both edges, looks neater by the wall and it’s easier to stand a board up to put a thin bead of D4 into a groove when it’s upright. Work to the end, lay a spare full board face up over the last one laid, another on top but butted to the wall. Scribe a line on the one that is on top of the last fitted one, and that’s your cut line. Now take the spare bit, go back to the beginning of the new row and use it to start again as long as it goes over a minimum of 2 joists. Glue, rinse, repeat ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 I'm with dave cut it back so the tongue lands on a joist. Also measure the width of the room before you start to make sure you don't end up with a silly rip when you get to the other side We don't generally bother with noggins on lose ends but if you wanted to I would put it in the middle of the board Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 57 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: You mean waste some? Well, I'm shocked. My outrage is not at you Dave, its at my particularly stupid stupidity. Well that depends. It would go on the "might come in useful" stack. you might find you can use it as the first or last bit of the next run. Or like me you will have lots of bits left to make shelves in a shed or garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 51 minutes ago, Onoff said: [...] Cut edges much better. I'll do that, I agree... 16 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: I'm with dave cut it back so the tongue lands on a joist. Also measure the width of the room before you start to make sure you don't end up with a silly rip when you get to the other side We don't generally bother with noggins on lose ends but if you wanted to I would put it in the middle of the board Well, that settles it then. Did a drawing to try and get my head round it..... 29 minutes ago, PeterW said: [...] Work to the end, lay a spare full board face up over the last one laid (A), another on top but butted to the wall (B). Scribe a line on the one that is on top of the last fitted one (B), and that’s your cut line. NOW CUT IT Now take the spare bit, go back to the beginning of the new row and use it to start again as long as it goes over a minimum of 2 joists. [...] You assume some intelligence on my part Pete. I'll try this with a spare bit of batten : it'll go click when I do that 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 looks fine to me, 200mm is acceptable, you could rip 100mm off the first run to make the last board a bit wider but i wouldn't say its necessary, its when you end up with a little 60mm bit that you wish you had started differently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Not sure if anyone has mentioned it Dont forget to leave a 15 mil gap around the perimeter Lots of glue on top of the joists Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 27 minutes ago, nod said: [...] Dont forget to leave a 15 mil gap around the perimeter [...] Always as well to check. I've heard 10mm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 31 minutes ago, nod said: Not sure if anyone has mentioned it Dont forget to leave a 15 mil gap around the perimeter Lots of glue on top of the joists Is that for getting the boards to fit i.e. wriggle room? Or expansion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Expansion - I am told. I'm also told that I should fit the boards after they have been in the house for a while - to acclimatise. Like a fine wine, boards need to 'breathe' ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 3 hours ago, jamiehamy said: [...] And would strongly recommend Spax for this job. [...] Nuff said lads? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 4 hours ago, nod said: Not sure if anyone has mentioned it Dont forget to leave a 15 mil gap around the perimeter Lots of glue on top of the joists i agree when the boards are not glued down, with the boards glued with d4, how much are they going to expand? just something that came to mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 4 hours ago, Onoff said: Is that for getting the boards to fit i.e. wriggle room? Or expansion? bit of both really, technically I suppose it's for expansion, but physically you'll need it to get the last board in. it also stops a potential squeak if there is any deflection in the floor and they were hard against a timber wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 2 hours ago, recoveringacademic said: Nuff said lads? I take it you have flappy pockets on your work trousers? I use one of these to get over the issue of emptying pockets for the dreaded "wash", its no substitute for a proper nail bag but they're good for the everyday stuff like what you appear to have accumulated, (you seem to be missing a small adjustable wide mouth spanner and a small multitool (leatherman ect,) ) https://www.engelbert-strauss.co.uk/workwear-accessories/work-bag-e-s-motion-3400460-6315710-1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 12 hours ago, recoveringacademic said: Always as well to check. I've heard 10mm.... If you put them 25 mil away from the wall the gap will still cover with the plaster The main reason is sound will carry right around your house You don’t nead a uniform gap If you use 10 mil as a minimum You find the gap will increase a decrease as you go Unless the blockwork is absolutely true Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now