Tin Soldier Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Hi There, I need to hang 8 doors, 5 of them I have purchased oak linings and stops 3 of them I will need to purchase standard pine linings Doors yet to be purchased but will be standard 1981 by 838 doors Situation as is I want to start with Pine linings so I'll focus my questions on this for the moment The apertures for internal doors are 212mm x 940mm x 123mm wide (The width of the aperture is made up of 2x 11.5mm plasterboard, 1xOSB sheet and timber stud) there is no flooring, but in the area that I will be lining with pine it will be carpeted at some point in the future when I have the money to do it. the lining options I see at my local TP are 115mm or 138mm 1. I assume I buy the 138mm liners and trim to fit on site 2. do I have the liners hard to the floor, ahead of the carpet coming - or do I have it raised of the ground 3. what width/height should I be looking for the final aperture to be. I've read I should leave 3-4 mm all round the door, with 20mm at the bottom? 4. recommended fixing method to timber studs? That's it for now - I will have questions re oak liners and doors - that's still to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 This is what drives me mad with joinery, you just can't seem to buy stuff that fits standard construction. i.e ready made door liners are not available in the required widths. I think your choice is buy the larger ones and rip / plane them down, or just buy some flat planed wood (available in a wider range of sizes) and make your own. much harder with oak as if they are just veneer then you can't just go planing them to size. Door liners hard to floor, cut carpet around them. If you have mvhr allow a larger gap under the doors for some air flow. I fix with screws, carefully positioned so the door stop when fitted hides the fixing screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 10 minutes ago, ProDave said: This is what drives me mad with joinery, you just can't seem to buy stuff that fits standard construction. i.e ready made door liners are not available in the required widths. @ProDave you can - it’s just that this isn’t standard construction ..! 115mm are made for 4x2 CLS which is nominal 89mm plus two sides of plasterboard. (89+25) 138mm are made for 100mm blockwork with two sides of plasterboard on dot and dab. (100+20+20) As soon as you go to using CLS plus OSB which seems to be appearing in a lot of timber frame buildings, your core has already moved up to 100 (89+11) before the plasterboard. That’s non standard construction. @Tin Soldier what I would do is go back to TP as they do stock 125mm but it’s non-stock or order in at some branches. If the computer says no, the code is here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 I had this problem and had to rip down linings that were too wide, just because we had a plaster skim on top of the plasterboard. The internal walls are all 89mm wide studs, plus 2 x 12.5mm plasterboard, plus 2 x ~3mm plaster skim, so ~120mm. Damned nuisance to have to do and we'd have been better off just buying oak boards that were 120mm wide and making up the linings ourselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Well the list of different width door liners are 180mm 120mm and 95mm I don't see anything "non standard" about using 95mm 0r 145mm C16 regularised plus plasterboard and skim as a wall make up. Add in an OSB racking layer (for a load bearing wall) and yes it might be less common, but I would hardly say non standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_r_sole Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 (edited) . Edited September 26, 2019 by the_r_sole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 My pet hate is plasterers who skim too deep and round off to the frame, this means the architrave won’t sit flat. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 10 minutes ago, the_r_sole said: Once you've got a saw set up you can spend probably 30 seconds to a minute per door frame to rip them to exactly the right depth for your particular construction - the beauty of timber is that it's easy to adjust. No real need to have door liners to cover every variation when it can be site sized with minimum effort (also allows for different wall finishes to be accommodated if you're not just skimming the walls. Unless you buy oak door lining kits... These seem to be made up of a laminated oak core with oak veneers, so can't be trimmed down neatly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 It might be easier to just use some PSE timber, then you might be able to get the size you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 1 hour ago, bassanclan said: It might be easier to just use some PSE timber, then you might be able to get the size you want I made my own frames in PSE to match wall thicknesses, painted frames and oak doors are ok in our opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 thanks guys its nice to get confirmation of what I'm thinking didn't realise there was 125mm lining - I've asked TP for a quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 are door linings exact fit for door size i.e an 838 door lining is exactly 838 wide, or are they slightly wider to accommodate door opening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Trenched heads on mine are 843mm near enough on all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 A joiner (as in the friend that used to be on Ebuild) advised me that he allowed 3mm at the sides and top of a door, so 843mm sounds close enough, at 2.5mm either side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 I had the same headache, ended up buying dressed all round timber and cutting out my own joints with a circ saw and chisel. Worth hand picking your timber at the BM to avoid anything badly twisted. When sizing the liner, the rule of thumb I was told was that you should be able to fit a 2p coin all the way around the sides and top. One essential thing to have to hand is a pack of plastic spacers in 1mm increments- these let you pack out the liner precisely. I didn't cut the doors down at all and propped them up in the doorway, building the liner around them. This ensured that everything was square. I screwed the linings and then filled the holes left by the heads. Primed and painted all skirts, arcs, liners and stops. The walls are all white so the pale blue painted skirts/arcs are a nice feature that gives necessary character. It's also so much easier and cheaper this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 @Tin Soldier size of standards in relation to door is governed by the type of hinges being used. butt hinges require less clearance than ball race, different method of fitting as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) Usually 5mm added on width for off peg linings. I used to allow 3mm all around when fittings but jam a 2mm packer in now. Can always take more off. I also pack them up a lot now in first floor. Most people tend to have floor coverings approaching 20-25mm off the deck and linings are only 2000mm high. Saves a load coming off bottom of door. @JSHarris are you on "friend"ly terms now !? Edited November 3, 2018 by Oz07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 9 minutes ago, Oz07 said: @JSHarris are you on "friend"ly terms now !? Yes, although he won't join here as he still seems to refuse to believe the truth behind what happened to Ebuild. I can understand that, as the individual who caused the mayhem is a very likeable and credible person. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) On 30/10/2018 at 12:31, Tin Soldier said: didn't realise there was 125mm lining - I've asked TP for a quote You do need to be very careful when ordering timber. The quoted sizes are nominal, and can be less in practice. I ended up oversizing and using my planer/thicknesser to size all of mine. Linings and architrave full to the floor. The tiler / fitter can multitool off any excess of need for fitting. Edited November 3, 2018 by TerryE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 Yes most timber sizes are quoted stock. Usually lose quarter of an inch to get it planed up. 4" becomes 94mm 2" becomes 45mm etc etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 Righto thanks People another question When making up your own liners, do you need to route in a trench, like the premade ones have? is there any jointing that has to go on prior to fitting with the top and sides?.. is it butt jointed or mitred etc any other tips much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Yes trench with router after cutting with chop saw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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