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Leaky walk on sky lights


Pocster

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4 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

What did you use to attach the T bracket to the upstand??

What did you use to seal the red line in the pic??

DrawOnPhoto_1535480574631.png

You can’t seal along and under . Just along . T frame isn’t ‘tight’ to upstand - needed wiggle room . So ct1 is only horizontal- but as said - must be gaps 

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3 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

I would put it up the vertical gap as well

can you squirt the entire contents out on a bit of board and slide it up the gap with your fingers. 

Yeah I was thinking that .

The size of that gap ( depending on which window ) can be a few mm  from t frame to upstand . Too 15mm . Need a lot of ct1 for 4 windows . Can get my camera phone under the edge to check it’s good ....

Edited by pocster
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7 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

I would put it up the vertical gap as well

can you squirt the entire contents out on a bit of board and slide it up the gap with your fingers. 

Yup. Smother them to death and then wipe any excess off with the cheapest baby wipes you can find, lots and lots of them. Buy a can of CT1 Multi-Solve spray to do the final spit n polish. 

Pump the bastard stuff in there and watch it ooze out of everything. You could seal a submarine with that stuff. Dont be tight or you'll be doing it again, and dont forget that when you put it in the next time I doubt you'll ever be able to get them out intact again so 'one shot' or 'deep shit'....... ;) 

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I think there may be another way using self adhesive EDPM tape. 

 

It is definitely a drainage issue so you also need to fix that somehow too. If the frame had a slight twist in it, it will leak

 

6B1E4E4A-E1AC-4686-826A-A6A648208091.thumb.jpeg.1bcf7cdae250b7e5ef24ddb137b9de94.jpeg  

 

i expect water alter is getting in the blue arrow - can you bond all the way round with EDPM tape to the upstand and fill any initial gaps with sealant or foam ..?

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7 minutes ago, PeterW said:

can you bond all the way round with EDPM tape

Thats what I was getting at. Yes fill up with ct1 or foam etc and then a serious tape exercise to give a seemless finish 

 

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3 hours ago, pocster said:

Surprised @Onoff hasn’t joined in for a kicking . Probably too busy tiling ........ ?

 

Just back from the gay very happy capital of the South East! More like the smack capital, even in the sunshine it's a shithole! :)

 

Opened the fridge in the student house and all that was in there was 4 cans of cider! 

 

Dropped my boy off, his 3 mates were already there so we went shopping for him. When we came back all they had done was set up the Virgin router and were raving about the 90Mbps and climbing internet speed, & that as they've got 2 Occulus Rifts they can do 360deg tracking. 

 

FFS all 4 oblivious to the student totty walking up the road outside! :)

 

 

Edited by Nickfromwales
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Could you buy neoprene rubber sheets and cut them to make a rectangular gasket that the t-frame would sit on top of?

 

A large sheet costs about £15 and could be used to make a continuous seal. You could try one and at least if it doesn’t work it can be taken apart again easily unlike CT1

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Well

 

i managed to get the smaller window out which does leak .

looking at it - hard to imagine the water level got that high I.e over the black rubber .

Some photos - perhaps someone will see something I haven’t 

 

cheers 

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It’s strange 

looking at that concrete block to the right - it’s damp . But no water from above . Like it’s soaked ‘through’ it rather than over it . Of course it’s part of the upstand and has the rubber going over it . So not sure ...

 

Timber and rubber above bone dry ...

 

 

7E4E45BE-67FD-4E78-A934-0883FDC17343.jpeg

Edited by pocster
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I was just telling someone I'd much rather work with electricity than water. Water's ability to get through the smallest gap is amazing.

 

From your last post it sounds like the water might be getting under the rubber.

 

Thinking about it, although this is on the ground, it is effectively the same as building a flat roof, should the rubber covering the upstand not be flashed out across the ground and sealed as if you were building the flashing around a roof window?

 

i.e. like this

 

image.jpeg.67c028e83b6546bb38fff9c0f254f4c2.jpeg

 

Re my earlier post it looks like you have created a kind of rubber gasket as I suggested but with a lot of joins. What I was thinking is if you by a rectangle of neoprene you can cut the centre out of it and create a continuous gasket with no joins. Looking at the frame as is though, I would be worried that the number of screws in the frame would not create a tight enough seal all the way round.

 

Of course if the water is getting under the rubber this is a moot point.

Edited by AliG
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7 minutes ago, AliG said:

I was just telling someone I'd much rather work with electricity than water. Water's ability to get through the smallest gap is amazing.

 

From your last post it sounds like the water might be getting under the rubber.

 

Thinking about it, although this is on the ground, it is effectively the same as building a flat roof, should the rubber covering the upstand not be flashed out across the ground and sealed as if you were building the flashing around a roof window?

 

i.e. like this

 

image.jpeg.67c028e83b6546bb38fff9c0f254f4c2.jpeg

 

Re my earlier post it looks like you have created a kind of rubber gasket as I suggested but with a lot of joins. What I was thinking is if you by a rectangle of neoprene you can cut the centre out of it and create a continuous gasket with no joins. Looking at the frame as is though, I would be worried that the number of screws in the frame would not create a tight enough seal all the way round.

 

Of course if the water is getting under the rubber this is a moot point.

I’ve got s bad feeling it’s getting under the rubber . Before any paving or concrete I.e just the rubber I flooded the entire area and left it for days . Not a drop got through .

But I *guess* block paving changes any water flow . Beneath this ( underground ) I have the dimpled membrane on the walls which would lead to an internal drain and then pump . Was always in the back of my mind to ‘somehow’ get this over the ceiling also . Looks like I might have to anyway . Though it’s not designed for that unless you have a nice curved cellar ....

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I think you are right there. When I Googled flat roof windows I noticed they all sit above the roof.

 

Roof windows are either on sloping roofs where the water runs away or raised above the roof. By building around the window water will be much slower to run away and also able to rise in level which increases the chances of breaching the seal.

 

Maybe a band of pebbles around the window to improved drainage would also help, but it wouldn't look as neat.

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16 minutes ago, AliG said:

I think you are right there. When I Googled flat roof windows I noticed they all sit above the roof.

 

Roof windows are either on sloping roofs where the water runs away or raised above the roof. By building around the window water will be much slower to run away and also able to rise in level which increases the chances of breaching the seal.

 

Maybe a band of pebbles around the window to improved drainage would also help, but it wouldn't look as neat.

Just spoke to permaguard ( other companies exist ? ) . Tanking slurry mix on the ceiling and upstands was his suggestion . Though the ceiling is flat and I need to key it ‘somehow ‘ . I’m willing to try anything but how do I key a flat concrete ceiling ???

f^xking hate water - always a bitch !!

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