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Leaky walk on sky lights


Pocster

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Hey !

 

These have been leak free .

Ive started doing the block paving around them . I haunch the concrete against the upstand so I can bed the brick . I think this is the issue ( obviously complete I would fill all the block paving joints with kiln dried sand - but can’t rely on that .... ) .

So ! ; I think rain water gets in this gap ( at the moment ) and can creep in under the frame . Should I just ct1 the gaps around glazing unit and pavers ? . Just ‘top up’ with sand for astetics at the end ?

Or bust those pavers out and ct1 under the frame ???

 

can stick a sketch up showing the upstand and pavers construction if that helps 

 

 

58980D17-74FD-4AFF-91EE-6AD3EB27282B.jpeg

Edited by pocster
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9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Post it up ;)

I will 

Rather annoyed tbh . ZERO leaks - checked it every step - but it’s water getting under the window ‘frame ‘ because ground level is higher because of the block paving . Sketch soon !!! ?

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57 minutes ago, pocster said:

I will 

Rather annoyed tbh . ZERO leaks - checked it every step - but it’s water getting under the window ‘frame ‘ because ground level is higher because of the block paving . Sketch soon !!! ?

Sounds like drainage is your issue.

Should you not be putting some kids no of permeable upstand around these and then paving to that? 

Possibly something that looks like a brickwork weep vent on its side ?   

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42 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Sounds like drainage is your issue.

Should you not be putting some kids no of permeable upstand around these and then paving to that? 

Possibly something that looks like a brickwork weep vent on its side ?   

Maybe.

Kind of discussed it here a bit ....

 

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So!

I assume that rainwater is getting under the upstand because the concrete floor level is now level with it due to the block pavers!

This area can be parked on and so drainage etc. wasn't an option.

Not sure what to do. It's like I need to 'water proof' the window frame and upstand again somehow!!! 

 

My pavers seem to be the exact depth of the frame upstand unfortunately!!

 

Previous to block paving no leaks - as the water level never got high enough.......

IMG_7705.jpg

Edited by pocster
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Was the window designed for flush installation?  If so, I can't see why the paving would make any difference.  Is this just on one window?  I assume they need to be flush so you can park on them.

 

I would want the frame / upstand / glazing to be completely waterproof, so I could aim a jetwash at it from any angle without any water getting in, then do the paving when you are happy.

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6 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Was the window designed for flush installation?  If so, I can't see why the paving would make any difference.  Is this just on one window?  I assume they need to be flush so you can park on them.

 

I would want the frame / upstand / glazing to be completely waterproof, so I could aim a jetwash at it from any angle without any water getting in, then do the paving when you are happy.

I tested it ever step of the way . No leaks .

But it would seem not 100% once water level is high enough . Only found this out because I started doing the paving .

Windows with no paving ( as of yet ) fine . 

To get the pavers flush with the glass I build up with mortar etc . Thereby putting water level higher .

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4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Has anyone actually given you detailed installation instructions?

Lol 

Nope !

 

i did wonder if it’s just a ct1 everywhere job . To get under the lip will be difficult . Will post photos tomorrow. Really need a ct1 expanding foam type mega product .

 

Actually how do I get ct1 under it ????

Edited by pocster
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1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

Not very fackin well :D 

Ct1 on the upstand then screwed in place .

I wasn’t keen on this because there’s no way of knowing if it’s a perfectly tight seal all around . 

Im tempted to cut the structural silicone out around one piece of glass . Remove it . Then re do the ct1 between upstand and frame . But I’ve still got no idea how perfect or imperfect the seal is until I put the glass back in and silicone again . Also the largest glass weighs 130kg - so not much fun ....

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4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Do not cut into the structural 'silicone' if it forms part on the unit. Are you referring to a bead of silicone that the upstand is bonded to that was retrospectively applied by your delicate hand?

These windows were different to my original ‘ wrong’ ones .

You get a steel frame . You then sit the glass in that . You then structural silicone around it .

So I can cut it because I put it in . Need to anyway to get the glass out so I can get the frame out . ?

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4 minutes ago, pocster said:

Surprised @Onoff hasn’t joined in for a kicking . Probably too busy tiling ........ ?

No one is trying to kick you just trying to get a better understanding of how it was attached to see where the issue could be.

Can you stand up on the inside and see if there are any visible gaps??

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

No one is trying to kick you just trying to get a better understanding of how it was attached to see where the issue could be.

Can you stand up on the inside and see if there are any visible gaps??

 

 

Lol ‘ kick’ was just a joke ! @Onoff receives enough from me ?

When I bedded the frames there was no wobble - as flush to the upstand as I could get . But of course just needs the tinniest of gaps .....

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Ow man ! These windows..... sorry to hear that you have water ingress.... I was worried about it leaking around the upstands and that’s why I asked on the previous post if they were fully bonded. I think you need to look into what “serious” waterproof tapes are available. Is there a way to tape between the bace unit and the upstand. Yes CT1 first as a back up but then tape to protect the ct1 between the lower section and the upstand. Belt n braces.  

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9 minutes ago, Cpd said:

Ow man ! These windows..... sorry to hear that you have water ingress.... I was worried about it leaking around the upstands and that’s why I asked on the previous post if they were fully bonded. I think you need to look into what “serious” waterproof tapes are available. Is there a way to tape between the bace unit and the upstand. Yes CT1 first as a back up but then tape to protect the ct1 between the lower section and the upstand. Belt n braces.  

I can take ( and will have too ) the whole lot out . The issue is frame to upstand . Not sure what ‘tapes’ exist . Ct1 seems the favourite. 

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1 minute ago, Russell griffiths said:

Can you cover the glass in masking tape up to the area that will be seen from inside, then ct1 the life out of it, drop the glass back in, any excess that squeezed out won’t go on the glass because of the tape. 

Then pump in a load from outside again with masking tape on the glass. 

Can’t .

frame is ‘T’ shaped so you can’t get to the edge outside . Glass itself just sits on rubber packers - sat in turn on the frame ( I was told to do it this way by the supplier ) . 

Only way is glass out so I can ct1 again under the frame . 

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Here’s a pic 

As you can see the double glazed unit siits down in the hole . The structural part of the glass sits on the ‘T’ frame . So no access to anything internally . No access to under edge of ‘T’ frame externally ?

1D144F55-597D-4F1F-AF6E-5C27D8A0656A.jpeg

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