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Glue for marine ply?


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What about CT1 in beads about 250mm apart and round the edges ..?

Any flexible construction adhesive would do - it's not (hopefully) going to get wet so you could also look at the Stixall/Gripfill type ones too 

I would think for ultimate adhesion you could use a full coat of epoxy but it would be a bit expensive ..!!

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I always use PU adhesive for wood and used it (with LOADS of screws) to fit the marine ply down to our bathroom floors, ready for tiling. 

There are several different brands, all equally as good, but Geocell Joiners Mate is locally available (Screwfix) in big containers.  Gorilla do the same stuff (in fact the original "Gorilla Glue" was a PU, but they now sell a range under that name).  Balcotan is another good brand, and was the first one I used when boat building.

All these PU adhesives are moisture-curing, totally water resistant and foam slightly as they cure, so they are gap-filling to a degree.  They are handy to have around, as they glue a lot of things other than wood fairly well.  Screwfix sell a very fast cure Evostik branded PU in a 300ml cartridge, that cures in around 5 mins.  That's ideal whenever you want a fast-curing bond, and I found the stuff handy for all sorts of little jobs, like gluing little noggins of timber in place to hold pipe clips spaced off things.

Wear gloves, as the stuff makes your skin go black and does not wash off.  The skin will remain black for days until it wears off and new skin grows.  It can be washed off skin reasonably safely with IPA, as long as you get to it before it cures.

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I think sometimes glues are a bit like tool brands. You get to like your favourite :)

For me its always Titebond for all joinery/wood tasks. Absolutely bulletproof. I tend to use Titebond II by default these days which is an exterior waterproof grade and buy it by the 3.8LTR here:

http://www.isaaclord.co.uk/titebond-ii-premium-wood-glue-3-8-litres

Of course you simply MUST also buy a GluBot. No discerning tool geek should be without one :D

http://www.isaaclord.co.uk/16-ounce-glu-bot-adhesive-despenser 

But being serious they are seriously good. Anyone who's struggled with a standard glue bottle when it starts to get empty would welcome one. Very clever but simple. 

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I use Casetite, it is a urea formaldehyde.  Comes as a white powder, you mix with water, let it set and then you can, if you want, pop in a bucket of water for 13 months just to see how well it works.  It works well, probably why they use it on boats.

I have also used it as a varnish, just water it down a bit more.

 

A few weeks back I made up 3 samples of different glues, PVA, PU and UF.  I keep meaning to test them out.  Just that other things have got in the way.

 

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5 hours ago, Mikey_1980 said:

We used PU Glue to our marine ply down for our bathroom and then the plumber put screws at 100m interverals in a grid pattern, it was alot of screws!

And he was DAMN spot on tbh. I put them in at smaller centres if I'm 1% unsure about the subfloor. 

Dont complain, he did a top job. Screws are cheap, re-tiling floors not so. ;)

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3 hours ago, Mikey_1980 said:

its not that big 2.5m x 4m

 

5 hours ago, Mikey_1980 said:

We used PU Glue to our marine ply down for our bathroom and then the plumber put screws at 100m interverals in a grid pattern, it was alot of screws!

100 M intervals. !!! :D

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2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

And he was DAMN spot on tbh. I put them in at smaller centres if I'm 1% unsure about the subfloor. 

Dont complain, he did a top job. Screws are cheap, re-tiling floors not so. ;)

Nick - what thickness do you go for....?

Given I would be ply on a 22mm chipboard T&G that is glued and screwed to I-joists at 480mm centres, would 6mm ply work as we're surely in the realm of diminishing returns..??

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

D4 - £6.16/ 1L @ T'station

Gorilla - £8.00 / 532ml @ Screwfix

I've got both.....maybe I'll do a taste test!

 

Those are both PVA types though aren't they? I use the t'station version. I'm yet to use a PU glue 

D glue grades http://www.constructionchemicals.co.uk/blog/2015/07/13/what-are-d1-d2-d3-d4-adhesives/

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D4 and PU, all terms / names for the same product. Moisture curing, expanding ( aka gap filling ) single part glue. 

PVA is a totally different thing, and water based. 

On bigger floors I use a mosaic trowel ( 3mm notch ) and apply a layer of resin / PVA wood glue onto the floor where the ply is to be overlaid, so you get a near solid bed of glue. Then I screw at at least 100mm centres for a sound nights sleep. The 'normal' wood glues go off slowly, ( unlike the PU's which give you literally minutes ), so with water-based your not counting each second when working. Plus you don't get that god forsaken PU stuff on your hands :( Also don't forget to liberally glue the abutting joints!

Not many people, especially 'occasional tilers' ( including wa***ers who just own tiling tools ), fully appreciate the importance of this process, and then the customer pays the price down the line when the grout lines start cracking, and then the tiles. Seen it many times, and the aftermath. 

Tiles are for life, not just for Xmas ;)  

 

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