Corrugated alternative?

[bissoejosh]

We've opted (subject to planners agreement) to switch from a standing seam roof to a corrugated alternative very much like the attached image (Dualchas design) . We're surrounded by farms and it's very much the local style. I've started looking at material options and have come across a Marley Eternit fibre cement board profile solution. Claims of noise reduction, reduced condensation and increased lifespan sound good but what would be the downsides over traditional steel options and has anyone used similar? This might be relevant to @Visti who I think is planning something similar.

[Cpd]

The standard tin can come with an anti condensation fabric attached to the back, i think corrugated tin looks great especially with the coloured plastic coating. Rain Noise can be an issue but with the right insulation build up should reduce it to a low background  noise.... its so cheap as well.  

[Crofter]

I used corrugated steel, 0.7mm with plastisol coating. Very pleased with it, and I get much more rain noise from my 3G windows than from the roof. I was going to get the anti condensation flocking but my local BM couldn't supply that. I have a good roofing membrane underneath so I don't think it's a problem.

[Visti]

That's right bissoejosh, we've opted for the Dualchas design too. Our architect sold us on the premise of the two examples below after we made it clear that standing seam metal roofs were out of our price  range (even when DIYing the Tata steel)

 

We're currently planning to use steel sheets at 0.7mm (as Crofter) but with a mica coating as that has tested the most durable in our samples. These are supplied by Cladco at £12.75/m with an additional £2.5/m for the anti condensation. 

 

We'd not considered non-metal options but some samples of those Marley Eternit boards have just been ordered!

 

Our 3D render is below. You'll notice the timber cladding comes past the roof edge to 'hide' the roof. Not as neat a finish as the Dualchas designs, but cheaper!

[bissoejosh]

I've just ordered some samples myself, the only issue is we are hoping to use 0716 anthracite colour which I can't see as an option with the Marley product. @Crofter which brand did you go for? Just trying to get a feel of whats available.

 

Interesting to see your roof edge @Visti  have you detailed the concealed guttering to go outboard of your wall plate or sitting above it? My current aim is to batten and then counter batten to give 100mm clearance from the outside of our frame sheathing to the cladding and then fit the gutter in this space (pic below). The advantage is that should the gutter flood it will only drop down the cavity rather than above the wall plate and insulation below. I keep revising this though and I need to calculate required gutter size as I may make it in situ as per @Russell griffiths suggestion and line with fiberglass.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 24, 2018 by bissoejosh

[Onoff]

@bissoejosh don't you mean 7016?

[Visti]

We're doing it nearly the same way @bissoejosh as you'll see below with battens and counter-battens give 100mm clearance between the frame and cladding to make space for our gutters. These will be continuous (no joints) extruded aluminium and likely from Guttercrest, but we've not started quoting yet so it could be an alternative supplier (always open to suggestions!)

 

Key difference between our designs is the location of the corrugated material with yours being quite elevated relative to the frame. Is there a particular reason for doing so?

 

[bissoejosh]

3 hours ago, Onoff said:

@bissoejosh don't you mean 7016?

I certainly do!

 

@Visti Our BCO said we needed 50mm air gap beneath any sheet metal when we originally proposed standing seam. If this is incorrect I can lower it easily. Glad to see my detail isn't far out, I need to look at guttering specifics at some point

[Russell griffiths]

Our gutters in oz had slits on the outer edge just lower than the highest edge, so if any blockage occurred water would flow over the front and not the back. 

You could do this and have the holes in line with the gaps in your cladding, so you couldn’t see them but they would squirt out the front if needed. 

[bissoejosh]

Nice idea, will keep it in mind if I make them on site.

[Visti]

Aye, we've had the same consideration, hence why you can see that the inner wall of the gutter is higher than the outer edge, going up to  to the base of the corrugated sheet, forcing water away from the wall in the case of an overflow.  Holes in line with gaps in the cladding ain't a bad alternative if it's not possible to source asymmetrical guttering!

[bissoejosh]

Did your samples turn up @Visti? I was quite impressed with them although they feel like a very different product to metal. Quite liking profile 3 in black but need to get hold of some more metal versions for a direct comparison.

[albert]

Hi guys I'm also yet to confirm my roof product on a contemporary build. Looked at tata but expensive looked at the rubber standing seam, but going back to standard  CLad Co box profile. I've used it on a load of jobs. check out photos on our web site if  you interested.  www.instahaus.com  but I think looks  pretty good for fraction of the cost. We are still working on  the sound issue but will check out this marley product as an option as the cement fiber is definitely a better performer on this issue.

[Nickjj83]

Hi All,

 

Very interesting reading your thoughts on corrugated sheeting profiles. We are also influenced by the Dualchas designs and would like to proceed with a corrugated finish on our build. I have looked into Marley Eternit products but would prefer a metal profile (in black) which is suitable for a residential project and has longevity.

 

Does anyone have any supplier recommendations?

[Juj]

Another one looking for corrugated sheeting for our roof.  I've still not decided whether to go for Nu-Lok slates, ColorCoat Urban or corrugated sheets.  I have seen roof lights in some of them but I'm a little concerned who easy it would be to incorporate, we're having 6 roof lights and possible some integrated solar panels too 

[Cpd]

1 hour ago, Juj said:

I have seen roof lights in some of them but I'm a little concerned who easy it would be to incorporate,

 Are you talking about velux window ? I have just re-roofed my shed with new tin and instead of the old fashioned clear corrugated sheet I went with 4 velux as they look much smarter, can be opened and I get a lot more ventilation in there now. I looked at various examples of how “professionals” installed them and was appalled at the poor workmanship in regard to both how the flashings worked and the damage done to the tin by poor cutting to fit them in. Each example was an opportunity for me to see how not to do it and gave me time to come up with solutions. In the end it came down to understanding how the corrugations would align in regard to the flashings and how to minimise cutting and how best to avoide having cut edges exposed. Very carful planning of where the cut outs would need to be placed in the roof was critical and there was a lot of measuring and re measuring. In the end it worked out about 95% good  with only a couple of areas that could have been better. (Next time) the final result is fantastic, it transforms the tin roof into a very smart setup but  still very much in keeping with the local vernacular which is rural agricultural land. I looked and looked on line for details on how to do it well but came up with nothing, plenty of pretty pictures but no technical detail. 

[Juj]

@Cpd Yes, Velux or similar.  You've just actualised my fear, I'm not going to be tackling the roof myself and these minor details are the ones most contractors I know are rubbish with. It would be great if there was some kind of flashing kit available.

[Cpd]

Flashing kits are available you just need to get the right one, velux support will be able to help. It’s not the lack of flashings but how they are installed. 

Will post a pic later 

[Cpd]

The tin ridge is not something I would recomend but it fits in with my other two ridges on my adjacent buildings, I would look at replacing them all with something more durable when they all reach the end of there life, 

[PeterW]

@Cpd that’s a really tidy job !

[Cpd]

Thanks @PeterW it took so much working out to be able to get the down curve of the tin to fall precisely into the gutters of the flashings, there was just so little room for error when you have 4 windows / 8 flashing gutters down the side of the  windows. You also want to leave enough space for it to be well ventilated and be able to clean between the edge of the tin and the window.....  when my 3000 trees grow up and leaves start to become an issue ! I had to put in the two extra fixings through the flashing below the windows  as I am in a VERY exposed location and during my research of local velux in tin I was alarmed to see how the flashings could lift at the bace in these locations leading to damage, water ingress and then shite bodge work to fix the problem. Just got given a bunch of square galvanised tin guttering and a bunch of brackets (wrong brackets....) so am going to paint the tin and wax oil the inside and get the forge fired up to re-bend all the brackets. All curtesy of another local builders merchant. As I previously said I was “alarmed” at how bad the professionals round here were doing this sort of installation..... work less than 12 months old was rusting / leaking / blocked with leaves and moss  and looked terrible......     

[Juj]

That's a really nice looking roof @Cpd Your experience's with the so called professionals are similar to my own, anything that is out of the ordinary and they don't have a clue, but won't for the life of them admit to that!

 

[JamesP]

@Cpd

That is a really great job.  Did you design the apertures to fit neatly within the corrugations and did you use the EDW flashing kit?

I am fitting 7 Velux within a Tata Steel roof, quite challenging and takes a few windows to find the right solution but happy with the end result. It should not leak!

 

 

[Cpd]

13 minutes ago, JamesP said:

That is a really great job.  Did you design the apertures to fit neatly within the corrugations and did you use the EDW flashing kit?

@JamesP yes I had to work out exactly where the corrugations would fall.....  due to a very exposed location I wanted the edge of the tin to fall into the inner flashing gutter (yours is on the outer) but leave enough space for maintenance. Pretty sure it was EDW flashings. In your first picture behind the yellow scaffold pole there is an extended cut beyond the edge of the flashing....  What stops water ingress here ? To avoid the extended apron on either side and to avoid cutting sheets I made sure that that each sheet finished right in the inner gutter and facing downwards  and was then able to just run the tin over the apron creating a really tidy finish. If your in an exposed location then I would look at additional fixings on your extended aprons as they are prone to blow up in heavy winds.... part of the reason for my design and the additional 2 fixings. I considered box profile but in the end the original roof was corrugated so stuck with that, corrugated also allows for a bit of flex around the flashings without it being obvious. All in all it was a lot of very tricky and detailed measurements but got there in the end, there a few small gaffs but only I know where they are....... did you do your own instal ? It looks great and will give you years of maintenance free life ! Love a good tin roof !  

[JamesP]

@Cpd Yes I am doing the roof myself, in fact the whole build so far. The Tata does work well, 4.2m sheets just doable but fitting the ridge on the first roof was a challenge as the Sikaflex sealant goes everywhere you don't want it. The eaves and verge details work well. 

The extended cut is the top pan overlaying  a shorter piece underneath which fits next to and then extends up,  under and along the window flashing. 

Cutting the sheets with metal blade circular saw then up stands using folding tools.

The Velux apron was not sticking very well possibly due to the intense heat at the moment so will revisit with sealant and possible fixings. Where possible I trimmed the

aprons to fit tight underneath the seams.

Very impressed with Velux, as long as you follow the instructions. My brother helped me lift the large windows in, 69Kg.

300sq m + to fit, quite the expert now.

First roof below.