Kicking table saw

[cowboy25]

So I have this table saw I use in my workshop I've had it for a few years and recently changed the blade for the first time with a nice Rutland blade after the original one was blunt as anything causing the wood to smoke and taking ages to cut. I also cleaned out the table saw whilst removing the old blade. The problem is I am using it currently to cut cls studs to the desired length for my project and the blade keeps catching/ jumping/ kicking when I use it even though I'm being quite careful to the point I don't want to use it anymore. The blade seemed ok for the first few weeks with no jumping happening  but now not so much. What an I doing wrong? I never really had this problem with my old smoky blade I would have thought a new sharp blade would cause the table saw to kick less.

[ProDave]

33 minutes ago, cowboy25 said:

The problem is I am using it currently to cut cls studs to the desired length for my project

I would say wrong saw for the job.  You want a chop saw for that.  A table saw is normally used with a fence for cutting a length of timber down to a particular size.

 

The complete lack of a guard over the blade does not inspire confidence.

[Nickfromwales]

Stop using it for cutting CLS, and get a cheap chop/mitre saw. 
 

Dangerous as FECK!

[Nickfromwales]

 

 

For £60 you could throw it away at the end of the job!

[Mr Punter]

40 minutes ago, ProDave said:

The complete lack of a guard over the blade does not inspire confidence.

 

And I think there may be a small issue with the dust extraction...

[cowboy25]

 

1 hour ago, ProDave said:

I would say wrong saw for the job.  You want a chop saw for that.  A table saw is normally used with a fence for cutting a length of timber down to a particular size.

 

Ah ok I did have a chop saw but thought I could change to a table saw (plus jigsaw)  as a 'do it all saw', didn't realise people didn't use it for what I am currently doing. I don't remember having this problem with my old blade but perhaps I wasn't cutting much cls. 

 

51 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

 

And I think there may be a small issue with the dust extraction...

I have the saw located at my workshop entrance so the most dust goes straight outside. 

Edited June 13 by cowboy25

[Nickfromwales]

1 minute ago, cowboy25 said:

Ah ok I did have a chop saw but thought I could change to a table saw (plus jigsaw)  as a 'do it all saw', didn't realise people didn't use it for what I am currently doing. I don't remember having this problem with my old blade but perhaps I wasn't cutting much cls. 

A table saw is for sheet material, or trimming down timbers lengthways, not for cross cutting etc. You'll just hurt yourself or the saw.

 

You'll be able to do mitres etc with a chop (mitre) saw too.

[jack]

You're lucky you haven't seriously injured yourself. Table saws are one of the most dangerous tools in the shop, even when used for what they're designed for.

 

You can use a table saw for cross cuts, but you need a cross cut sled or similar. Easy enough to knock one up, but even then it really isn't designed for cross cutting long pieces of wood. 

 

100% chop saw territory.

[SimonD]

On 13/06/2026 at 16:33, cowboy25 said:

a nice Rutland blade

Hmm, IMHO I'd be a bit cautious about that blade. I know Rutlands have built some kind of reputation, but I bought something from them that was total and utter over-priced rubbish. I was reluctant to touch them again until I ordered some tools from Bang Good having watched the YouTube channel 'China tools' - and yes there are some quality bits of kit that can be had - but what was very interesting is that one measuring tool I received came with Rutland written all over the tool and packaging even though it was from a totally different vendor and about a 1/3 of the price. After this I'd never buy anything from Rutland.

I'd be going to buy a well know and trusted brand of blade first. And then seriously look at and question how I'm using the tool and whether I'm doing it correctly and appropriately! 😉

 

[cowboy25]

One thing I forgot to mention and not clear in the photograph is the left hand wing of the table saw was bent downwards about half an inch so I was trying to accomodate for this as well when cutting the cls, so obviously this just added to the danger. I have since sorted out that bent left wing - a couple blows with a lump hammer at the top of the support struts where they connect to the table surface sorted that right out, so now the surface is completely level.

 

But yeah I'll no longer be using the table saw for cross cuts, I don't really have the space or £'s for a mitre saw sadly I'll use another type of saw for now, its called a hand saw. Thanks all. 

[dpmiller]

I'd do without a few beers, get the £60 wonder and just set it on top of your table saw...

[Nickfromwales]

16 hours ago, cowboy25 said:

I don't really have the space or £'s for a mitre saw sadly I'll use another type of saw for now, its called a hand saw. Thanks all. 

Erm, drop the blade down and put it on the table saw….

£60……. ???  

 

[Temp]

I always use a sled for cross cutting on the table saw. If you don't then pushing on the wood can cause it to bind on the saw blade. The sled pushes on the wood evenly right upto the blade so the cut doesnt tend to close up.

[Super_Paulie]

i inherited a table saw at work. It was totally obvious that i would end up losing a finger by using it every day so i got rid of it and got a dewalt chop saw and a dewalt track saw. Never looked back.

[cowboy25]

2 hours ago, Super_Paulie said:

i inherited a table saw at work. It was totally obvious that i would end up losing a finger by using it every day so i got rid of it and got a dewalt chop saw and a dewalt track saw. Never looked back.

 

Yeah I'm looking at track saws, I hadn't really heard of them, they sound great.  A chop/ track saw combo could be a good idea going forward to be able to do most cuts it sounds like.

[Nickfromwales]

8 hours ago, cowboy25 said:

A chop/ track saw combo could be a good idea going forward

No such tool exists sir.

 

One or the other   

[SimonD]

10 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

No such tool exists sir.

 

One or the other   

You've missed a trick there! 😉 This one will do that - cross-cut guide rail fixes to the saw itself - just bring the saw up to the material and compound cuts galore - and then buy a normal guide rail for boards and longer cuts. This saw will work as a plunge saw too! I have the HK85 mains powered version and have used it like this for the last 8 years doing that. The other great thing about this saw is ripping capability with the right blade. Since I've had my HK85 the chop saw hasn't left the shelf in the garage.
 

 

The other option with a workshop is the MFT workstation: https://www.festool.co.uk/accessory/accessories-for-equipment/work-benches/work-benches/495315---mft3

[dpmiller]

... a wee bit more than £60, that.

[tetris]

I don't rate such low-end table saw - shaped objects very highly.

 

Apart from the obvious H&S concerns: lack of guard, the pile of dust that's a slipping and inhalation hazard and the spaghetti bowl of cables (you don't want to trip and fall on the non-guarded blade ), your support tables look out of true, which probably causes the blade to stick, kick & bind.

"Old smoky blade" sounds like a problem in itself.

 

If I had a saw like this, I'd put it in the back of a van and take it to the tip. Never compromise on your safety.

 

I found that sliding mitre saws, light handheld circular saws and plunge track saws are the way to go.

 

Sadly, good table saws (cabinetmaker grade) start from about £2.5k used - anything else is not really worth having unless they are bought and used with jigs for very specialist jobs.

[Onoff]

You'll very likely get a secondhand chop saw on Facebook Marketplace for not much money and local to you. The orange Evolution saws often come up. Fine for the level of accuracy you need for that.