Alan Ambrose Posted yesterday at 17:58 Posted yesterday at 17:58 I have a bunch (~72m) of Ravatherm XPS blocks 100mm x 600mm x 1,250mm I need to make some cuts reasonably accurately at 30 degree angles. Something like below, if you're looking from the ends of the boards. Anyone have a great method? The cut surface on the slope is 200mm long.
-rick- Posted yesterday at 18:49 Posted yesterday at 18:49 Can you make one cut and flip the cut-off over to be the second piece? Not got practical experience but I've seen people make a wooden jig with a hot-wire. If you need to also cut the length of the board to make a single angled cut work, could do this with another hot-wire jig or track/table saw.
BotusBuild Posted yesterday at 19:08 Posted yesterday at 19:08 26 minutes ago, Conor said: Handsaw. +1, and a facemask
SimonD Posted yesterday at 19:09 Posted yesterday at 19:09 56 minutes ago, Alan Ambrose said: I have a bunch (~72m) of Ravatherm XPS blocks 100mm x 600mm x 1,250mm I need to make some cuts reasonably accurately at 30 degree angles. Something like below, if you're looking from the ends of the boards. Anyone have a great method? The cut surface on the slope is 200mm long. What do you mean by reasonably accurate? I've used my jigsaw with a blade with 150mm cutting length on both woodfibre and eps at similar angles to this. With this you need to make a jig so you have a flat surface on with the rest to jigsaw as it won't make the angle if using the large flat area of ther xps. The other option is to make up a plywood jig that sandwiches the xps and gives you a cutting guide to rest something like the Bahco insulation saw on. I'd probably for for the second option. But if money is no object: https://www.festool.co.uk/products/cordless-products/cordless-insulating-material-saw/577231---isc-240-eb-basic-gb https://produkte.mafell.de/en/sawing/insulation-saw/insulation-saw-dss-300-cc
Beau Posted yesterday at 19:16 Posted yesterday at 19:16 I would make up a 30 degree wooden wedge and use that to guide a handsaw at the angle.
G and J Posted yesterday at 22:49 Posted yesterday at 22:49 Handsaw, straight edge, felt pen and practice. Draw a straight line both sides. Stand the sheet up so the lines are vertical and cut watching the lines both sides. I think XPS is polystyrene so it’s easy to work, hand saw is ideal. I didn’t need a mask either (unlike PIR). One left field thought. Polystyrene has a lambda of circa 0.034 thingys. (Thingys stands for whatever the units are, I can’t be arsed googling it). Airtight foam has a lambda of 0.034 thingys too.
saveasteading Posted 23 hours ago Posted 23 hours ago Doing this currently. Handsaw ( multipurpose) for small cuts. Circular saw for longer cuts. And mask, goggles, hat with the latter. I had expected the eps to shed whole 'bubbles' but it cuts as very fine dust. So do it indoors or you will contaminate the area.
Mike Posted 23 hours ago Posted 23 hours ago If you have lots, then it could be worth getting a wavy-edge hand saw. I've got a Bahco ProfCut that works well and avoids the mess. Plus a knocked-up jig to keep the angle you want.
Super_Paulie Posted 13 hours ago Posted 13 hours ago (edited) build a sled if you have loads to do? a sled and a hardpoint saw is what i used. Edited 13 hours ago by Super_Paulie
Alan Ambrose Posted 6 hours ago Author Posted 6 hours ago Tried the tracksaw followed by handsaw idea today. Works fine, but we actually need the tracksaw at 60 degrees and it has a max of 45. I've also ordered a hot wire cutter, a Bahco wavy saw and some Bosch wavy jigsaw blades to try. Intend to build a jig somewhat like @Super_Paulie 's. Will report back.
G and J Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago Or use several layers of thinner stuff cut square. Will the small voids actually matter?
Iceverge Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago I'm wondering if this is a scenario where stepping the blocks and making up the diagonal difference with mineral wool is the massively simpler and no worse performing solution. What's it for?
G and J Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago The way I read the diagram it’s to reduce the cold bridging at the sole plate. Otherwise cold air gets behind the plinth bricks. I assume there will be wall ties linking the walls and the plinth bricks. Not sure how that will work with polystyrene sheets.
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