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Plastering Moisture Resistant Plasterboard


Onoff

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OK it won't happen soon but I'm going to plaster my bathroom ceiling (and one half wall) myself. 

 

It's moisture resistant, the green stuff. Any pointers? Some prepping I'm guessing, PVA?

 

I've done a bit of wall plastering maybe 25 years ago but never a ceiling. Even then only small areas say a metre wide at the top and bottom of landings.

 

Worse case I screw it up and get the BiL to make good my mess :)

 

Cheers 

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49 minutes ago, Onoff said:

OK it won't happen soon but I'm going to plaster my bathroom ceiling (and one half wall) myself. 

 

It's moisture resistant, the green stuff. Any pointers? Some prepping I'm guessing, PVA?

 

I've done a bit of wall plastering maybe 25 years ago but never a ceiling. Even then only small areas say a metre wide at the top and bottom of landings.

 

Worse case I screw it up and get the BiL to make good my mess :)

 

Cheers 

Go straight onto it as normal 

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  • 4 months later...
Just now, CC45 said:

My chap prefered board finish.  No idea why.

 

There was something I read somewhere about board being better than multi or vice versa but only of late as in the formula / quality had changed maybe. Maybe on a plastering forum or something?

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Just pay a plasterer PLEASE !

I cannot stand it when a good room gets mutilated by a bad skim job. You've saved by doing everything else yourself, just pay a spread. They'll get 3 sets on in one good day so will be finished in one sitting. 

No.....just no. 

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+1 to get a plasterer. Even I, who has been doing most jobs myself got a spread in to do it for me, and he did a damned good job.  He used multi finish.

 

One interesting thing he said (would be interested to hear if this is true or not) was you need to get it skimmed soon after fixing the board. He swears if you leave ordinary grey board 6 months before skimming it will have trouble adhering.  Truth or wives tale?

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2 minutes ago, ProDave said:

+1 to get a plasterer. Even I, who has been doing most jobs myself got a spread in to do it for me, and he did a damned good job.  He used multi finish.

 

One interesting thing he said (would be interested to hear if this is true or not) was you need to get it skimmed soon after fixing the board. He swears if you leave ordinary grey board 6 months before skimming it will have trouble adhering.  Truth or wives tale?

 

'kin hope not! :/

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12 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

It's just because of dust etc. It's at that stage you DO need to PVA everything with a pissy mix immediately before laying on. 

 

I have vacuumed the walls...

 

As it's in the bathroom should the PVA be the (more expensive) waterproof version or just ordinary?

 

5:1?

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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10 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Let the plasterer dictate that. 

Just for clarification......

 

"Get a fackin plasterer or I'll send the boys round". 

Seriously . Don't make me come down there. 

 

 

Missus wants her brother to do it rather than me! 

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54 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Missus wants her brother to do it rather than me! 

 

Smart missus.

 

I've had this conversation with various trades. Most would have a go at most jobs, but all of them baulked at plastering (one admitted having had a go on his own house, and he got as far as one wall before conceding defeat). 

 

Just get it done right first time. It won't be expensive, and no-one will think less of you for handing over this one tricky job to a pro.

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Joint tape, scrim:

 

I've bought, been given or scored off site various tapes & scrims over the last 35 years or so. Still got most of it! Not in the least adverse to buying some new but wondered what these are that I've found:

 

The first is seemingly VERY low tack,  either that or it's so old it's lost it's tackiness! It is a bit tacky but I wonder if it would actually stick to anything:

 

20180612_042225

 

Then I've a couple of rolls of this stuff. Sticky as Hell but the face is shiny and smooth like Sellotape. What is it? It's like a sticky mesh faced in clear plastic:

 

20180612_042316

 

What then do I then need for my mrpb joint?

 

I assume an open mesh or do I use a paper tape and pva it on?

 

Wickes do a couple of the mesh type for just under a tenner a roll. One's fibreglass.

 

Cheers

 

(And yes, the cooker clock needs resetting :) )

Edited by Onoff
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