Upvc door hinge tweak-how?

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, dpmiller said:

how does the door look like it's fitting into the frame as it closes- are any of the latchy bits rubbing anywhere?

Hi there dpm,

 

no nasty catching on latch bits thankfully. Only at the door plastic at the bottom, clashing on the steel rim of the cill. I understand this -does suggest innitially- that the door's simply gone out of kilter & drooped a tad on the lockside.

 

But you see the house's upvc door & windows, along with 2 extensions, are clearly not a pro job. A decent-effort amateur job, yes. But an awful lot of sub par (even to my amateur stds). Eg WC timber doorframe badly not vertical so the door just closes irritatingly whenever you open it/ EG white silcone to fit the last window trim bits looks like a child's done it!

 

So my hunch is, the chaps's just not hung the upvc front door very well ~20 yrs ago.

 

Thanks Zoot.

 

 

 

 

[markocosic]

Just fix it.

 

Shimming little double glazed units is easy. Buy yourself the plastic wedge/lever so you don't bugger the glass and get on with it as per below:

 

 

I've just done my 2100 x 900 mm full glass / triple glazed units - heavy swines - much the same way. Used birch ply spacers (on top of the channel spacer) rather than plastic as the plastic has a tendency to deform over time where the birch does not. That, and I had the birch ply and a chopsaw to cut it to size, but no plastic. Timber cut end grain also works.

[zoothorn]

On 25/08/2025 at 22:41, markocosic said:

Just fix it.

 

Shimming little double glazed units is easy. Buy yourself the plastic wedge/lever so you don't bugger the glass and get on with it as per below:

 

 

I've just done my 2100 x 900 mm full glass / triple glazed units - heavy swines - much the same way. Used birch ply spacers (on top of the channel spacer) rather than plastic as the plastic has a tendency to deform over time where the birch does not. That, and I had the birch ply and a chopsaw to cut it to size, but no plastic. Timber cut end grain also works.

Hi marko..

 

thanks for that- the best clip of this I've seen. I am a bit reticent about cracking the glass, & the cost of spacers/ 3x tools.. is a £chunk for me.

 

I just want to rule out if there's any way I can adjust the hinges, first, before I resort to this toe & heel job.

On the inside hinge I have 2x small allen screws I can access, & one central bigger screw I cannot access.
 

Does anyone know what these 2x small allen bolts are for?? Surely they have a purpose.

 

Thanks, zh

[dpmiller]

just put a spanner on the "nut" in the middle of the hinge, to try and jack it L-R?

[zoothorn]

13 hours ago, dpmiller said:

just put a spanner on the "nut" in the middle of the hinge, to try and jack it L-R?

Hi dpm..

 

I just can't get a spanner in here, so I don't -believe- it's meant to be a 'functional diy tweak bolt'.

 

Anyway, if the only way is to take whole glass out & pack it, levering up etc.. then I've got the help on here. I really need 2 people to be safe doing that that you see & no-one here at all to help.

 

Thanks chaps.

 

 

 

 

[-rick-]

Again, not got knowledge of the specifc hinge. But just because a normal spanner doesn't fit doesn't mean its not there for adjustment. Slim tools exist and wouldn't be a surprising requirement:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Galvanizing-Automotive-Furniture/dp/B0DRP7YZF9?sr=8-8

 

The above are cheapo ones as I know you are on a budget. Its possible they are too weak for your needs (but amazon has easy returns).

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, -rick- said:

Again, not got knowledge of the specifc hinge. But just because a normal spanner doesn't fit doesn't mean its not there for adjustment. Slim tools exist and wouldn't be a surprising requirement:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Galvanizing-Automotive-Furniture/dp/B0DRP7YZF9?sr=8-8

 

The above are cheapo ones as I know you are on a budget. Its possible they are too weak for your needs (but amazon has easy returns).

Thanks for that rick. But none of those could possibly fit. The gap just isn't sufficient to get any in & around the nut bit enough, to get any traction on it. They'll get on say 2mm but slip off.

 

I've gone back to the idea of toe & heel, very tentatively.. but I just cannot get the bead out. No way on god's earth. I did so before on my windows (how tho I can't recall) but the beading in flush with frame edge. So once something pushed in the gap, you can lever &/ or tap the bead away.

 

But my door beading is set in by 2mm. Meaning I don't have anything to lever the bead against. Been trying for an hour & absolutely no way. I'm not risking a tool that levers against the glass: no. I'm not risking a £100 new door pane, no security & rain into my door for a week just to shift the door up a few mm's.

[zoothorn]

You can see here, nicely highlighted in a bright white vertical line, how my door beading is set in by 2-3mm, unlike a typical window beading I have here, you can see in the background (top of my blue marker) which is flush. 

 

 

[markc]

Paper scraper or thin wide chisel will get the bead started in the middle. Once you get a small gap opened it will come out easily

[Gone West]

3 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Meaning I don't have anything to lever the bead against.

I have a curved bead lifter but if this is the only time you're likely to need one, try to find something with a similar edge.

 

[MPH243]

I think your door has been fitted the wrong way round, are the beads outside? (i might be wrong but the handle screws are outside).

 

Also to adjust the door the middle white bit will leaver off when shut with a flat screwdriver it is very flexible plastic, the screw with the hex on has a allen head on the end to adjust.

 

The two tiny allen screws are needed to be loosened to adjust the up/down screws that are coved by round caps top and bottom, these also are the hinge pins.

 

Hopefully this makes sense, i don't fancy going out and taking pictures as its dark and raining. But i can tomorrow if you need me too.