MPH243

After just using a tape measure it does makes sense for smaller numbers but anything over 1m you measure the easiest way to read the numbers.

The 2 sensors are about 500mm apart in the unit so it can't be house fabric. Here is my present readings and not on bypass.

https://amzn.eu/d/01CXoCm6 How about this one

I have the Q450 the sensors are all in the unit, 1 each side of the heat exchanger on both supply and extract. Mine is the same 100% bypass, I can't connect to mine to show the figures but was the same as yours earlier. I think it's probably the fan warming the air. The bypass takes it over the top of the heat exchanger to miss it. I think if you look this afternoon it goes into reverse and closes the bypass when outside is warmer than the house.

What did you do that for🤣. Is it a excuse to sit down for a beer.

I have Makita 18v Lxt but the guys I mainly work for are DeWalt, there is not much difference between them. Get a couple of 4 or 5ah batteries and a make sure it's a fast charger what ever you go for. My Dad has a cheap angle grinder and garden 6 inch chainsaw and blower all work well for occasional use. I also have a Makita Lxt lawnmower, strimmer and hedge cutter so it's worth thinking about when you have finished what garden tools as batteries tools are so much easier and you have the batteries.

Get the Dc18rc quick charger, it is half the time to charge. If you are doing something that drains batteries you will be kicking yourself. (Guess how I know).

I like the walnut and that it came from your tree. It is also very different colour from nearly all the other stairs you see now.

@SteamyTea Might be warm but a bit breezy for you 98mph on scilly isles and 89mph at Culdrose. I hope everything stays ok for you.

Yes you can, you could use plywood/osb inside to give fixing for hanging things, and then remove them to move the frame and reassemble.

Do you have solid metal ducting between mvhr and silencer or foam like this https://www.epicair.co.uk/products/Ubbink-aerfoam-150mm-2m-pipe-insulated-duct?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20379623923&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20375261885&gbraid=0AAAAAD8qV0kJRL43zBaZRBZ16PVsqJvqB&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrojHBhDdARIsAJdEJ_cB4QtbWmQTL0iscIrgurD10fWtrsWbSvCQmMconP2pdEfZATfGfoAaAn-MEALw_wcB If metal the foam might help quiet the noise. Also you could mount the mvhr on rubber washers.

https://www.screw-express.com/screw-self-drilling-large-round-head-hexagon-recess/30203-124561-self-drilling-screw-confirmat-large-round-head-hexagon-recess-7x70-zinc-plated-3663072018877.html?_gl=1*eo8rws*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwobnGBhBNEiwAu2mpFH1Cxg8DJ39ODahMXPc09z93K2CbJyhyqht5d4lmcayjISVIeQezaRoCvdwQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAApFB4C3JbUGttmEI7biA054VR7cNB#/79-conditionnement-1_unit Is this what you want, I only guessed at the diameter so hopefully its close?

Well done Only the up stands and the new leaks from the water butt, so 200 pages are possible.

New water leak thread coming soon.🤣 How many pages will that get, at least the old ones sorted.

We moved in before all 2nd fix electric and plumbing was finished but was safe, building control was not interested. Site Insurance only covered building not contents so had to arrange separately. I don't believe warranty provider can tell you about moving in.

@craig is the best help with doors. I can see the door is the right way round now. You also can't get to the screw I was on about because of the reveal. (It was late) Hopefully you will get it sorted.

I think your door has been fitted the wrong way round, are the beads outside? (i might be wrong but the handle screws are outside). Also to adjust the door the middle white bit will leaver off when shut with a flat screwdriver it is very flexible plastic, the screw with the hex on has a allen head on the end to adjust. The two tiny allen screws are needed to be loosened to adjust the up/down screws that are coved by round caps top and bottom, these also are the hinge pins. Hopefully this makes sense, i don't fancy going out and taking pictures as its dark and raining. But i can tomorrow if you need me too.

@SteamyTea I think he meant the nails are more likely to split timber as you have more control of a screw. How about using cladding screws they are quite expensive you don't need a nail gun and only 1 or 2 boxes for what you need. https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p36869

Your best chance will be a local sawmill, if they can't they will know probably know someone that will. It is a quite unusual profile so getting a exact match will be the issue but should be close.

I like @Onoff idea they are pricing just under £50 a m3 plus hose extensions( that's what came back on Google). They can bring the tube through the house with hopefully little damage? It would be worth a call for a guide price as no labourers or digger required. You will still need a grab lorry to get rid of the soil.

@Tetrarch that's what I tried to find but did not do a good job. 🤣 I got worried that the back was held on by a little grub screw until they showed the assembly with the thread. A coach screw with that would be fairly easy.

I would not fancy holding up the glass while winding in the coach screw. The others are already in the gulams and just need to fit the glass, clamp and nut with less chance of slipping. Unless the clamp bit is bolted to the gulams before the glass is fitted but I am not sure on that bit?

I just messaged a mate who had the glass balustrades to Gulam like you want. He used these https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/category/wood-to-metal-dowels/945 but could not remember the size. You would then need the glass clamps.

I think it is these https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/1806455M__Glass_Connector_-_O/D_50mm_x_20mm_With_M10_Threads_-_Grade_316_Mirror you want. I would try Cornwall glass for making the glass panels as I think are quite local to you. You can template the hole positions before you get them made.

Why did you start this when it stopped raining and not last year when it rained all the time?