Hecateh Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 My design has an inset balcony to the main bedroom. It's only very narrow, just wide enough for me to sit out with a cup of coffee on a nice morning. Below are sections of drawings from my architect. My builder is now asking me how the gable end is supported as there is nowhere to support a steel at the roof side. It appears to me to be one more thing my architect has not addressed - or is it up to me to find a solution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
le-cerveau Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Classic of the architect sadrawing and saying the engineers will sort it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Some steel work should sort it, but that then creates another problem - how do you mitigate the potential thermal bridging where the steel goes? The steel would also have to be specially fabricated as a sort of truncated A shape, to rest on the walls either side and support the brickwork across the set back opening. In terms of reducing the thermal bridge problem, and potentially the need to fire protect the steel, I wonder if the steel could be designed as an architectural feature on the open side, with a plate to support the brickwork above? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Isn’t your architect married to the SE...?? If so, ask her to mention over the Rice Krispies (other cereals are available) that they have missed the skyhooks off the SE spec.... Short of running a steel from wall plate to gable both sides and then creating a long bar “A” frame for the gable to stand on, you are going to struggle. I’d ask a pointed question about how they envisage it working and then wait for the answer - and I wouldn’t be paying for it either ..!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 17 minutes ago, PeterW said: Isn’t your architect married to the SE...?? ]...[ I’d ask a pointed question about how they envisage it working and then wait for the answer [...] I've tried that tack. But I don't understand their response(s) I'm a Domestic Client. And so is @Hecateh So, let's help her. @PeterW, or @JSHarris or @TerryE or any secret SEs we have on here, or secret BCOs, or an architect, or architectural technician will do fine, or @nod'll know or steels fabricator What EXACTLY should @Hecateh ask? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) 27 minutes ago, PeterW said: Isn’t your architect married to the SE...?? Not married - work partners - I'll go straight to him, I no longer have any confidence in her - Every dealing I had with her my confidence gradually ebbed away. Another issue she has left me with. Notice on the elevations there are velux windows. Now look at the cross sections DD and EE - So how are the velux windoes going to work b elevations.pdf e cross section.pdf Edited January 4, 2018 by Hecateh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) You can certainly see from the section that no steel is envisioned. It shows a lintel. I have steels in my roof exactly that truncated A shape. Cold bridging shouldn't be an issue as only at the right hand side would it be bridging to the interior, everywhere else it is the exterior of the balcony behind it. More difficult will be hiding the steel with a brick finish. It would go inline with the inside wall with a plate holding up the outside wall. When you look up at the underside of the wall though you are going to see a 300mm wide metal plate. Really SE should advise and if they have already been paid they have clearly made a mistake not to include it. Edited January 4, 2018 by AliG 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Are the Velux windows not supposed to just fit between the trusses, they look to be the correct size for that. If not the trusses can be cut and reformed around the Velux, that is not unusual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) 5 minutes ago, AliG said: Are the Velux windows not supposed to just fit between the trusses, they look to be the correct size for that. If not the trusses can be cut and reformed around the Velux, that is not unusual. Ceiling heights are set at 2.4m which puts the windows into the loft space Edited January 4, 2018 by Hecateh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Either drop the roof windows into the pitched ceiling or just form some boxes coming down to the flat ceiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) It does say If in doubt, Ask in large red letters in the notes, so presumably they welcome questions . On your roof windows, you could decide to leave your trusses exposed and insulate on the slope if you like that look. F Edited January 4, 2018 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 1 hour ago, Hecateh said: Ceiling heights are set at 2.4m which puts the windows into the loft space Ah right. You can move them down the roof or create boxes as suggested. However, to get them in below the ceiling they would basically be at the gutter. Looking at the elevations, 2 of the Velux windows are directly above normal windows. Did the architect intend them to light up the loft space? Unless they are lighting spaces that don't have windows I would be inclined just to leave them out. Hard to say without the floorplan. They are an expensive way of lighting the loft. I would certainly not have the 2 that are above windows, they would look odd from the inside and seem unnecessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) 17 minutes ago, AliG said: Ah right. You can move them down the roof or create boxes as suggested. However, to get them in below the ceiling they would basically be at the gutter. Looking at the elevations, 2 of the Velux windows are directly above normal windows. Did the architect intend them to light up the loft space? Unless they are lighting spaces that don't have windows I would be inclined just to leave them out. Hard to say without the floorplan. They are an expensive way of lighting the loft. I would certainly not have the 2 that are above windows, they would look odd from the inside and seem unnecessary. Pretty much along the lines I was thinking. There was potentially an issue that the windows below would have to be obscure glass as they are close to a boundary and the vellux were added for this eventuality however planning had no problems with the windows (one metre and 3 metres from boundaries). The only one I really want is the one in my bedroom, directly above where my bed weill be so I can lie in bed and look at the stars. That room I want to be fully vaulted, the rest I'm going to wait and see whether it is cheaper to fully vault all of it or to separate the rest off and and the ceilings as shown. This partly depends on the level difference between the floors as the builder thinks the stairs may well end up being 6 and 7 rather than 9 and 4 as shown These are last floor plans produced but I am now having an understairs loo on the lounge floor, and the bathroom is moving to be a small ensuite in the second bedroom, leaving a large boot/utility/hobby room. Edited January 4, 2018 by Hecateh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 @Hecateh you may have posted your plans originally and I didn't see them. Just looking at them, the master en suite looks uncomfortably small. I would make it wider and the dressing room a little smaller. I would also put a nice big shower right across the end of the room. When you say the bathroom will be an ensuite, how will that works as it is across the hall? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 9 minutes ago, AliG said: Just looking at them, the master en suite looks uncomfortably small. I would make it wider and the dressing room a little smaller. I would also put a nice big shower right across the end of the room. When you say the bathroom will be an ensuite, how will that works as it is across the hall? Master ensuite not yet really fixed and won't be finalised until I can get in there and really visualise it. The washer/dryer is going in there somewhere - most washing is clothes. Almost happy to have it as one big room as modern ventilation should ensure no damp problems. A good size shower is a priority, may need disabled access at (hopefully not) at sometime. Bathroom is moving across to be a mini en-suite off bed 2 (next to the mid wall) as with a downstairs loo and an upstairs ensuite, it will only be used a couple of times a year, although this is the one that is on the entry level so will have to meet building regs for access. The then big utility will be a hobby come storage room - I refinish furniture as a profitable hobby so need space for diy and painting in there 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) Have you had the 'relaxed staircase gives you 5-10 more years in your house' presentation yet ? Edited January 4, 2018 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 16 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: Have you had the 'relaxed staircase gives you 5-10 more years in your house' presentation yet ? I went for 38 degrees rather than the building regs max 42 degrees. How many more years will that give me? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 19 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: Have you had the 'relaxed staircase gives you 5-10 more years in your house' presentation yet ? 2 minutes ago, ProDave said: I went for 38 degrees rather than the building regs max 42 degrees. How many more years will that give me? No - but something I read on here has got me thinking that way. I've lived in a bungalow for 18 years and I know I don't 'do' stairs as well as I used to. However, in the month the builders have been on site I am using the external steps much better than I was. SO stairs are good to keep me active and supple but I live alone and often go a couple of weeks without family contact. So 'relaxed' stairs seem like a positive - along with smart technology to ensure my ongong independence. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, ProDave said: I went for 38 degrees rather than the building regs max 42 degrees. How many more years will that give me? I don't know .. I will ask you in 2045 should BH still be running . Being a bit more serious, since so many people asking questions on BH are building low maintenance and low cost forever or retirement houses it is probably a good question to keep asking, along with 'where could the lift go should you need one in the future'. Especially given demographics and that as a country we will be working to get social care right for decades. From my own family one relation just about to turn 80 reckons that the good fortune of a house with a shallow staircase and half landings able to take a dining chair for a rest gave them years extra of being able to get upstairs reasonably comfortably. Thinking too about all those people stuck downstairs in terraced houses who are there for a decade or more stuck downstairs after they are unable to get upstairs due to injury or low mobility. Fit people, accident-free mountain walkers / cyclists, yoga / Zumba types / physical workers who keep within limits and dancers etc may be better off. Personally when I get round to self-building from scratch it will have potential full living facilities downstairs and lift-provision as I have a chronic condition that may eventually cause serious physical problems. Had a salutary reminder this week when a tradesman currently working for me has been off for 5 days because he did his back picking up an empty cardboard box at new year. Ironically it was exasperating an old "Good Samaritan" injury from when he lifted a heavy bike off someone being crushed after a motorbike accident 2 decades ago - so no more heavy work and a career redesign will be necessary for him according to the doctors. I guess there is similar stuff about landscape plans designed to need less maintenance over the years. I still remember a garden programme from the 1980s where 2 vigorous 6x or 7x year old golfing-type ladies described the garden of their shared bungalow as a Geriatric Unit designed to be adaptable to zero maintenance plus an occasional gardener as the aged. I love people like that. F Edited January 4, 2018 by Ferdinand 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) 41 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: From a more serious angle, I don't know, but since so many people asking questions on BH are building low maintenance and low cost forever or retirement houses it is probably a good question to keep asking, along with 'where could the lift go should you need one in the future'. Especially given demographics and that as a country we will be working to get social care right for decades. From my own family one relation just about to turn 80 reckons that the good fortune of a house will a shallow staircase and half landings able to take a dining chair for a rest gave them years extra of being able to get upstairs reasonably comfortably. This is hugely what is driving this. I thought my current home was my forever home. Bungalod, liver here 18 years and it was build for my grandparents in 1951 However, needing to retire at 61 (whilst not physically unfit for work , driving 20k year mostly on motorways at rush hour wasn't sustainable) and not getting pension until 66, lead to a big rethink. I am still at a stage of 'use it or lose it' but future proofing is definitely in mind. My dad lived to 95 (average of him and siblings 84) Mum 92 (average age inc siblings 96 and one still going) so, all else being equal at 62 I have a good few years ahead of me. I have 2 children (41 and 39) and no grandchildren - so not likely to have any. My new place - 3 (sub) floors. It would be possible to 'live' on any one of the 3 floors as they all have a loo and running water. It would also be possible to fit stair lifts or a lift from lower ground to upper ground (in the corner of the lounge) So whilst I am looking for 'dream' now I am also future proofing so far as I am able. Not passive but hugely more insulated and windproof than the place I now live in. AND I keep telling myself, despite all the crap, it will be worth it in the end Edited January 4, 2018 by Hecateh windproof not waterproof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Hecateh said: This is hugely what is driving this. I thought my current home was my forever home. Bungalod, liver here 18 years and it was build for my grandparents in 1951 However, needing to retire at 61 (whilst not physically unfit for work , driving 20k year mostly on motorways at rush hour wasn't sustainable) and not getting pension until 66, lead to a big rethink. I am still at a stage of 'use it or lose it' but future proofing is definitely in mind. My dad lived to 95 (average of him and siblings 84) Mum 92 (average age inc siblings 96 and one still going) so, all else being equal at 62 I have a good few years ahead of me. I have 2 children (41 and 39) and no grandchildren - so not likely to have any. My new place - 3 (sub) floors. It would be possible to 'live' on any one of the 3 floors as they all have a loo and running water. It would also be possible to fit stair lifts or a lift from lower ground to upper ground (in the corner of the lounge) So whilst I am looking for 'dream' now I am also future proofing so far as I am able. Not passive but hugely more insulated and waterproof than the place I now live in. AND I keep telling myself, despite all the crap, it will be worth it in the end If you have a heat model or Design SAP, running a set of numbers including the first 20 years of index linked energy bills can be encouraging as a self-motivation tool to look beyond the crap, when compared to the same for your current home. F Edited January 4, 2018 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 8 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: If you have a heat model or Design SAP, running a set of numbers including the first 20 years of index linked energy bills can be encouraging as a self-motivation tool to look beyond the crap, when compared to the same for your current home. F (I meant windproof not waterproof) Thanks but .... That means absolutely zilch to me ... current place has unused chimneys and poorly fitted patio doors so I know it's crap despite adding cavity wall insulation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Just now, Hecateh said: (I meant windproof not waterproof) Thanks but .... That means absolutely zilch to me ... current place has unused chimneys and poorly fitted patio doors so I know it's crap despite adding cavity wall insulation Sorry. What I meant was that your Building Regs submission will have a document which I think says how much it is estimated to cost for energy. And you know what your current bills are. If you take the difference (which may be £1000 or more per year), add up that saving over say 25 years, it is perhaps more than the 20k you have just sunk into your foundation, and it may be a source of encouragement when the self-build blues strike. So you still are up on where you would have been, even in addition to the benefit of having a nice new comfortable house. It is a bit of a motivational trick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 thanks I haven't seen that bit on the building regs - will have to look. Motivational - ahhh NLP - my kind of (semi)expertise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 Here is Eden Council's explanation. It may be called a "Predicted EPC" or similar https://www.eden.gov.uk/planning-and-building/building-control/building-control-guidance-notes/sap-calculations-explained/ Having read that, I am now thinking that it may not be quite as straightforward as I suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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