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Kitchens are hard work


Pocster

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25 minutes ago, Pocster said:

I’ve looked at this for the week . Um’d and ah’d . Then on Friday took about 2 hours of work . A productive week !

Yes it’s all about the pre, mistakes are made by wading in before adequate thought is made on how it’s to be done. 👍

Edited by joe90
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6 hours ago, Pocster said:

Decided I need a professional in to install this .

Everything is spot on so far , and rock solid .

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I like a self leveling laser level to cast a line around the top of all the units.

You find if you move a standard level around the top of the units it changes. With the Lazer you can average out the errors in the units, and it's so easy to level front to back at the same time .

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9 hours ago, Jenki said:

I like a self leveling laser level to cast a line around the top of all the units.

You find if you move a standard level around the top of the units it changes. With the Lazer you can average out the errors in the units, and it's so easy to level front to back at the same time .

Done that also 😊

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45 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

That creates further doubt. Needs 3 levels and 2 of them to agree.

 

Btw Are lasers always correct? How are they checked?

 

Certainly site levels can go wrong. I know how to check them though.

Nooooooooo !

I must find more levels !!!

🫤

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5 hours ago, Pocster said:

. Assume glue ? ( ct1 ? ) . Will have to add vertical noggins on that white unit as otherwise nothing to bond too .

 

 

Screws through the back panels for me, then you've an easy removal if ever needed. glue some filler pieces in place to stop the back panel bowing when the screws are sent home, just measure the panel (18mm)+ gap and add 15mm (assuming the back panel is 18mm)  and select the correct screw length.  

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1 minute ago, Jenki said:

Screws through the back panels for me, then you've an easy removal if ever needed. glue some filler pieces in place to stop the back panel bowing when the screws are sent home, just measure the panel (18mm)+ gap and add 15mm (assuming the back panel is 18mm)  and select the correct screw length.  

Yeah I was worried about screws . The panels are 18mm. Fear makes me worry that :

 

Not enough bite if screw not deep enough 

 

Going through the panel !

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On the white cupboard fit a bottom rail to match the top rail that exists, these then have a 15-18mm gap to the edge of the side panels, glue 15-18mm (whichever it is) timber to the back panel to match the top and bottom ones and you then have up to 36mm to screw into the back panel from the inside of the cupboard through those supports. (I can do you a cad, crayon assisted, drawing if you want 😇)

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11 minutes ago, joe90 said:

On the white cupboard fit a bottom rail to match the top rail that exists, these then have a 15-18mm gap to the edge of the side panels, glue 15-18mm (whichever it is) timber to the back panel to match the top and bottom ones and you then have up to 36mm to screw into the back panel from the inside of the cupboard through those supports. (I can do you a cad, crayon assisted, drawing if you want 😇)

What screws for into the laminate ? Just standard wood screws ? - pre drill it ?? 

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Pre drill a clearance hole in the first piece(that you are fixing through) then twin fast screws, beware to screw slowly if using a power tool as they pull in fast and use the clutch on your driver…Furniture Chipboard / Twinfast Screws, also known as particleboard screws. These self-tapping screws have a coarse thread with twice the thread pitch of standard wood screws, making it easy to drive them into a variety of materials such as chipboard or various densities of fibreboard.

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