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Kitchens are hard work

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Decided I need a professional in to install this .

Everything is spot on so far , and rock solid .

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Edited by Pocster

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  • Views 18.4k
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  • Worktop went in easily .

  • I like a self leveling laser level to cast a line around the top of all the units. You find if you move a standard level around the top of the units it changes. With the Lazer you can average out

  • Remember to turn your level 180 and check again in case the kids have used it a baseball bat.

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  • Author
2 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Well done 👍

Yes @joe90 I AM THAT PROFESSIONAL!

  • Author
29 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

looks pissed to me

You need more 🍷 to make it look straight 

  • Author

I’ve looked at this for the week . Um’d and ah’d . Then on Friday took about 2 hours of work . A productive week !

Remember to turn your level 180 and check again in case the kids have used it a baseball bat.

25 minutes ago, Pocster said:

I’ve looked at this for the week . Um’d and ah’d . Then on Friday took about 2 hours of work . A productive week !

Yes it’s all about the pre, mistakes are made by wading in before adequate thought is made on how it’s to be done. 👍

Edited by joe90

  • Author
3 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Yes it’s all about the pre, mistakes are made by wading in before adequate thought is made on how it’s to be done. 👍

Yes ! I’ve been prepping for 11 yrs now .

  • Author
20 minutes ago, Temp said:

Remember to turn your level 180 and check again in case the kids have used it a baseball bat.

Ahead of you . I’ve got 4 levels - yes ; I check everything with all 4 now 😊

6 hours ago, Pocster said:

Decided I need a professional in to install this .

Everything is spot on so far , and rock solid .

IMG_8808.jpeg

IMG_8809.jpeg

IMG_8810.jpegi

I like a self leveling laser level to cast a line around the top of all the units.

You find if you move a standard level around the top of the units it changes. With the Lazer you can average out the errors in the units, and it's so easy to level front to back at the same time .

  • Author
9 hours ago, Jenki said:

I like a self leveling laser level to cast a line around the top of all the units.

You find if you move a standard level around the top of the units it changes. With the Lazer you can average out the errors in the units, and it's so easy to level front to back at the same time .

Done that also 😊

15 hours ago, Pocster said:

Yes ! I’ve been prepping for 11 yrs now .

 

Amateur.

21 minutes ago, Pocster said:

When in doubt 

That creates further doubt. Needs 3 levels and 2 of them to agree.

 

Btw Are lasers always correct? How are they checked?

 

Certainly site levels can go wrong. I know how to check them though.

  • Author
45 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

That creates further doubt. Needs 3 levels and 2 of them to agree.

 

Btw Are lasers always correct? How are they checked?

 

Certainly site levels can go wrong. I know how to check them though.

Nooooooooo !

I must find more levels !!!

🫤

9 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Nooooooooo !

I must find more levels !!!

🫤

 

Somerset isn't too far from you.

  • Author
3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Somerset isn't too far from you.

 

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  • Author

Some big gaps between units so added noggins . Laminate panel goes right down that side . Assume glue ? ( ct1 ? ) . Will have to add vertical noggins on that white unit as otherwise nothing to bond too .

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5 hours ago, Pocster said:

. Assume glue ? ( ct1 ? ) . Will have to add vertical noggins on that white unit as otherwise nothing to bond too .

 

 

Screws through the back panels for me, then you've an easy removal if ever needed. glue some filler pieces in place to stop the back panel bowing when the screws are sent home, just measure the panel (18mm)+ gap and add 15mm (assuming the back panel is 18mm)  and select the correct screw length.  

  • Author
1 minute ago, Jenki said:

Screws through the back panels for me, then you've an easy removal if ever needed. glue some filler pieces in place to stop the back panel bowing when the screws are sent home, just measure the panel (18mm)+ gap and add 15mm (assuming the back panel is 18mm)  and select the correct screw length.  

Yeah I was worried about screws . The panels are 18mm. Fear makes me worry that :

 

Not enough bite if screw not deep enough 

 

Going through the panel !

On 17/11/2023 at 16:41, Pocster said:

I’ve looked at this for the week . Um’d and ah’d . Then on Friday took about 2 hours of work . A productive week !

Charge yourself double for the extra effort on a Friday.. 

On the white cupboard fit a bottom rail to match the top rail that exists, these then have a 15-18mm gap to the edge of the side panels, glue 15-18mm (whichever it is) timber to the back panel to match the top and bottom ones and you then have up to 36mm to screw into the back panel from the inside of the cupboard through those supports. (I can do you a cad, crayon assisted, drawing if you want 😇)

  • Author
11 minutes ago, joe90 said:

On the white cupboard fit a bottom rail to match the top rail that exists, these then have a 15-18mm gap to the edge of the side panels, glue 15-18mm (whichever it is) timber to the back panel to match the top and bottom ones and you then have up to 36mm to screw into the back panel from the inside of the cupboard through those supports. (I can do you a cad, crayon assisted, drawing if you want 😇)

What screws for into the laminate ? Just standard wood screws ? - pre drill it ?? 

Pre drill a clearance hole in the first piece(that you are fixing through) then twin fast screws, beware to screw slowly if using a power tool as they pull in fast and use the clutch on your driver…Furniture Chipboard / Twinfast Screws, also known as particleboard screws. These self-tapping screws have a coarse thread with twice the thread pitch of standard wood screws, making it easy to drive them into a variety of materials such as chipboard or various densities of fibreboard.

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