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Posted
13 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Got a picture of the control board connection diagram?

It’s dark, will do it in the morning 👍

Posted
22 minutes ago, Onoff said:

This is mine:

I wish mine was that good, the wiring diagram (chinesium) makes no sense, I am yet to wire the sensors and will have to work out what to do. Also mine has no mention of a manual switch to open close the gates which I want in case the remote fails or family/friends visit when I am not here, (front door bell push behind the gate post is what I did on a previous house) I can mechanically disengage the motor with a key tho. 

Posted
52 minutes ago, joe90 said:

I wish mine was that good, the wiring diagram (chinesium) makes no sense, I am yet to wire the sensors and will have to work out what to do. Also mine has no mention of a manual switch to open close the gates which I want in case the remote fails or family/friends visit when I am not here, (front door bell push behind the gate post is what I did on a previous house) I can mechanically disengage the motor with a key tho. 

 

😂 & I thought my Italian stuff was bad!

 

11, 12 and 13 above go 24vac, negative, +24vdc. Never seen anything like it and it really threw me as it's not clear.

Posted

Depending on where you bought the kit from, have you thought about discussing this with the supplier? I installed some electric gates and bought the motors and controls from The Electric Gate Shop. I called them a few time with questions and they were very helpful. I have no affiliation btw.

Posted

Great my 5 amp Reed switch works on my bench test bed, now to wire it in the actual gate opener etc. the Reed switch does spark a little on closure but the write up on the Reed says “special rhodium contacts are used to avoid corrosion and wear”. 🤞

Posted
29 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Great my 5 amp Reed switch works on my bench test bed, now to wire it in the actual gate opener etc. the Reed switch does spark a little on closure but the write up on the Reed says “special rhodium contacts are used to avoid corrosion and wear”. 🤞

 

Gems US - reed switch protection.pdf

  • Thanks 1
Posted

If it doesn't work I'd follow @Adrian Walker suggestion and use the reed to switch the power to the coil of a 230V relay. 

 

It says the reed should be enclosed so put both in one box.

  • Like 1
Posted
18 minutes ago, Temp said:

If it doesn't work I'd follow @Adrian Walker suggestion and use the reed to switch the power to the coil of a 230V relay. 

 

It says the reed should be enclosed so put both in one box.

Yes that’s my plan B, but the Reed works on the bench and I am going to protect it like @Onoff posted above, the new Reed will be inside the waterproof casing of the motor box. 👍

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Adrian Walker said:

Based on that spec sheet it's not rated at 230V and 5A.

Specifications

Attribute Value
Contact Configuration SPST
Maximum Switching Current 5A
Maximum Switching Power 250W
Maximum Switching Voltage 250V ac/dc
Contact Resistance 100mΩ
Contact Material Rhodium
Maximum Release Time 0.2ms
Operating Time Including Bounce 3.5ms
Length 84mm
Edited by joe90
Posted
12 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Specifications

Attribute Value
Contact Configuration SPST
Maximum Switching Current 5A
Maximum Switching Power 250W
Maximum Switching Voltage 250V ac/dc
Contact Resistance 100mΩ
Contact Material Rhodium
Maximum Release Time 0.2ms
Operating Time Including Bounce 3.5ms
Length 84mm

Apologies, maybe I'm looking at the wrong spec sheet.

Posted
1 hour ago, Adrian Walker said:

Apologies, maybe I'm looking at the wrong spec sheet.

I think that was the previous one that blew/welded.

  • Like 1
Posted

Fir fecks sake !!!, got the resistor and capacitor as per @Onoff,s post above (why does nobody sell them singly?) wired it up on my test bench and!!!!” The LED,s pulse about once a second permanently  🤯 it’s as tho the resistor/capacitor is charging and discharging to activate the LED,s with the magnet activating the Reed the LED,s are on as should be.  Can any guru out there help? (I think I will stick to woodwork).

Posted

the LED driver is slowly charging up until it fires. A suitable resistance in parallel with the driver should stop it, but this is one of the many issues with switch-mode power supplies. A different brand of driver may perform differently too...

Posted
15 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

A suitable resistance in parallel with the driver should stop it,

Any guesses what value, hopefully 100ohm 1/4 watt (as I could only buy 10 at a time for the one I required 🤣)

Posted

No, 100 ohm connected to 240V is (V2/R) is 576 watts,  apart from wasting a great deal of power, your 1/4W resistor would last milliseconds and end in a big flash.

 

100K Ohm would be about 1/4W but without trying it you would not know if it would quench enough.

  • Sad 1
Posted

yep a couple of hundred K would be worth a try, it's what we would fit across a starting capacitor to ensure it discharges.

 

Or an old-fashioned pygmy 15W filament bulb?

  • Like 1

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