June 19, 20179 yr Author That sounds about right. The B&Q website says it does 100m2/l which I guessed must be a typo! If not, it would be the best value paint ever
June 19, 20179 yr Author I can get McPhersons contract locally, cheap as chips... and would save me a trip to Inverness. I might have to go for that in the name of speed, unless anybody has any horror stories?
June 19, 20179 yr I like MacPherson's paint. Its better than most, but not as good as the likes of Dulux trade, but half the price!
June 21, 20179 yr On 6/17/2017 at 23:46, Crofter said: I'll have to see what's available locally, but in general are there any brands or types I should be looking for, or avoiding? I like Dulux Endurance as you can wash it without it coming off. Essential on corners and around light switches if you have kids.
June 29, 20179 yr Author So, Armstead contract white is in progress... anybody got anything good or bad to say about Armstead Trade Vinyl Matt as a final finish? Tin says it's suitable for commercial/institutional use, but doesn't mention being washable/scrubbable/wipeable. Unfortunately the next step up that I can get locally seems to be three times the price. I don't think I can get this sort of thing delivered.
June 29, 20179 yr Tried the Valspar on my job alongside the Leyland and its Leyland for me sorry. Just no comparison for obliterating new plaster first coat. The rubbing off issues @jamiehamy mentioned are something that the Leyland suffers from, but this isn't a finish paint, it's more like a filler / base coat that you rub down after obliteration and then finish with a good quality finishing paint. The Leyland is fine for ceilings as the finish as they don't really get any contact after finishing the obliterating but the walls deffo can't be left with this as the final coat. I accept that as I use products accordingly for the purpose they're intended for. . Cheap quick white out with Leyland, super light rub-down and then on with something decent, usually the colour coat so you can't use bulk-buy stuff anyway ( as its usually white or magnolia only ).
June 30, 20179 yr 10 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Tried the Valspar on my job alongside the Leyland and its Leyland for me sorry. Just no comparison for obliterating new plaster first coat. The rubbing off issues @jamiehamy mentioned are something that the Leyland suffers from, but this isn't a finish paint, it's more like a filler / base coat that you rub down after obliteration and then finish with a good quality finishing paint. The Leyland is fine for ceilings as the finish as they don't really get any contact after finishing the obliterating but the walls deffo can't be left with this as the final coat. I accept that as I use products accordingly for the purpose they're intended for. . Cheap quick white out with Leyland, super light rub-down and then on with something decent, usually the colour coat so you can't use bulk-buy stuff anyway ( as its usually white or magnolia only ). I know what you mean, it doesn't slap on like a mist coat, my understanding is that your first coat is just that, a mist and first coat in one. So you have to put it on as if you were "decorating" the wall. I don't know to be honest, as I said the wife used to work for them so swears by it, I'm tempted to give the Leyland slap it on quick method a go - but she's chief painter and I hate decorating so really it's whatever makes her happy ?
June 30, 20179 yr 14 minutes ago, Grosey said: its whatever makes her happy ? You can't put that in a tin !
July 1, 20179 yr Author Another noobie question... How closely matched will one brand of 'pure brilliant white' be to another? I don't really need durable scrubbable paint up on the ceilings, but I also want to avoid masking at the join between vaulted ceiling and wall.
July 1, 20179 yr 12 minutes ago, Crofter said: Another noobie question... How closely matched will one brand of 'pure brilliant white' be to another? I don't really need durable scrubbable paint up on the ceilings, but I also want to avoid masking at the join between vaulted ceiling and wall. You won't tell the difference TBH, plus they'll look darker and lighter than each other even if painted with the same product as they're differing elevations .
July 1, 20179 yr There is definitely a difference between Armstead contract matt emulsion, and their durable matt. The contract stuff has a slight cream tinge to it.
July 1, 20179 yr 54 minutes ago, Crofter said: Another noobie question... How closely matched will one brand of 'pure brilliant white' be to another? I don't really need durable scrubbable paint up on the ceilings, but I also want to avoid masking at the join between vaulted ceiling and wall. If it is between surfaces which are separated by corners, then your lighting may cause bigger differences than paint shades of the same colour. There are also useful games that can be played with bringing ceilings visually lower etc, increasing reflected light etc. For your newly plastered ceilings It may be a good idea to let it dry out for a bit with a contract paint, then redo it with something like eh Wickes flexible ceiling paint or similar which will help cover any hairline cracks as the skim settles. Ferdinand Edited July 1, 20179 yr by Ferdinand
July 1, 20179 yr Author I'm doing a coat of thinned contract matt, then at least one of straight contract matt. A third coat where necessary (bit behind the stove is proving quite stubborn!). It says on the tub that it's ideal for new plaster. Top coat paint won't be here till next week anyway, is that enough time? Will make it about two weeks since plasterer finished.
July 1, 20179 yr Author 1 hour ago, Ferdinand said: If it is between surfaces which are separated by corners, then your lighting may cause bigger differences than paint shades of the same colour. I don't mind the surfaces looking slightly different if that's what the ambient lighting does. But I do want to avoid having to mask up on the ceiling/wall joint. Ideally I'd like to be able to fire on with a big roller on the walls and not worry about the odd bit getting on the ceiling. I'm hoping that a cheaper non-scrubbable PBW will be the same colour as the more durable version from the same manufacturer (most likely leyland).
July 1, 20179 yr Given the relatively small area you have to cover, is it really going to be that big a saving not putting the durable finish on the ceiling? You really have to balance the saving against the time for cutting in / masking AND future decorating. You are after all going to be operating a holiday let which you may well end up refreshing the paintwork every year to keep things tip top for your guests.
July 2, 20179 yr Author 6 hours ago, Stones said: Given the relatively small area you have to cover, is it really going to be that big a saving not putting the durable finish on the ceiling? You really have to balance the saving against the time for cutting in / masking AND future decorating. You are after all going to be operating a holiday let which you may well end up refreshing the paintwork every year to keep things tip top for your guests. Yes that's a fair point. I'm only going to consider using two different paints if they are going to be indistinguishable once dried, i.e. no masking or cutting-in required. The more durable paints cost around 50% more than a standard vinyl, so it's a pretty small saving all told.
July 2, 20179 yr Adding a relevant question. I need a scrubbable paint to use in a kitchen over an emulsion which is coming off when marks are removed. Will the B&Q Valspar be OK for that? F
July 2, 20179 yr 3 hours ago, Ferdinand said: Adding a relevant question. I need a scrubbable paint to use in a kitchen over an emulsion which is coming off when marks are removed. Will the B&Q Valspar be OK for that? F Nope Dulux do a scrubbable Matt called iirc Diamond Matt ( or words to that effect ). Supposed to be the ? bollocks TBH.
July 2, 20179 yr What is Dulux Endurance like? B&Q appear to have them reduced by about 60-80% to clear. http://www.diy.com/search?Ntt=dulux+endurance Add: Suspect this may be a website zombie that does not exist. Had this with B&Q before. Add2: And what about Dulux Easycasre, which is claimed to be 20 times tougher than normal. Currently 3 for 2 at Wickes: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Decorating+Interiors/Paint/Dulux/c/1001114?q=%3AtopSellers%3Abrand%3ADulux%3AType%3ADurable+Emulsion&text=# F (mutter, mutter ... too complicated) Edited July 2, 20179 yr by Ferdinand
July 2, 20179 yr Johnstones make an endurance paint and it's as hard as £&@# and is scrubbable. Do it once and not have to worry about it for 5 years ..??
July 2, 20179 yr 3 hours ago, Ferdinand said: (mutter, mutter ... too complicated) Poor old Ferdinand obviously still suffering from last evening imbibing of 'the' cocktail...
July 2, 20179 yr 7 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said: Poor old Ferdinand obviously still suffering from last evening imbibing of 'the' cocktail... Another one lined up for later after watering the garden. It is actually quite mild after a Fog Cutter. It would be nice doing a Culprit Fey with full units of Cointreau, Creme de Menthe, Gin, Pournot and Cream rather than half-units, mind. Paint situation now resolved, though. Dulux Diamond Eggshell for the kitchen, and a selection of Dulux Easycares for the rooms which will suffer from children. F Edited July 2, 20179 yr by Ferdinand
July 2, 20179 yr Author And one more noob question... possibly one for @Nickfromwales ? Will it do any harm to paint plastered walls which will subsequently be getting tanking and/or tiles on them? Just asking because I haven't planned the details of how high up to tile etc.
July 2, 20179 yr Ideally you would tile directly onto the plasterboard (no skim). Paint means you are sticking tiles to paint, to skim, to plasterboard. Do you know what sort of tiles you are having? If you have chosen something like 20mm natural stone, you might want to think again!
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