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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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  • 2 weeks later...

No.1 son has just christened the shower. Verdict was "The only problem is I'll miss it when I'm not here!"

 

Water splash/spread is an issue about 1 tile passed the to falls zone.

 

We could be talking curtain/screen!

 

Pretty sure though the body dryer will cure some of it as for sure will UFH.

 

No ventilation yet either.

 

2019-06-22_05-56-50

 

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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The ads for the body dryer suggests it eliminates condensation but is that correct? Like an extract fan it draws moist air in but then passes it over an 8KW element. It then pumps the air downward. What's the science behind what happens to the moisture?

 

 

Could this be a viable alternative to an extractor fan?

Edited by Onoff
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2 hours ago, newhome said:

 

At this point I’d be wondering how deep the patio foundations need to be ... 

 

 

 

Tbh I'm blind when it comes to things like decorating, whether she's had her hair done or even coloured it. I've come home before now and she's re wallpapered...I've not noticed. Just doesn't bother me. I like detail.

 

 

Our lounge diner for instance. I'd have gutted it by now. As long as it's clean I'd live with looking up at the ceiling joists and dormer floor joists above that.

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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

As long as it's clean I'd live with looking up at the ceiling joists and dormer floor joists above that.

 

If I could have my way I'd quite happily leave cabling and pipework etc exposed - I hate covering it all up when I've spent so long installing it neatly! Better still, I'd use transparent pipes (soil pipes excepted!). 

Edited by MJNewton
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  • 3 weeks later...

Fitting the extract...or not...

 

I wanted it on the wall, up high, SHE wanted it on the ceiling. Came round to the ceiling as dead central to the tile (aesthetically best) would have put it firmly in Zone 1. Besides, because of the rainfall head being a "fixed shower head", Zone 1 extends to that height.

 

IMG-20190708-WA0007

 

So on the ceiling tight to the mitred wall to miss the joist above. The ideal was mid way between mitred wall and rainfall head like this:

 

IMG-20190708-WA0005

 

Except, as I said there's a joist and the hole would have gone right through it. As aforementioned very conscious of the joist above...

 

It should have missed the joist by a mile...

 

2019-07-09_06-02-14

 

Except that...I forgot the ceiling joists aren't parallel to the room walls from when I squared the room up!

 

The bathroom wall this end is about 3" further into the room.

 

IMG-20190708-WA0009

 

It's going here now though I'll just sister a joist alongside the "scalloped" one. It's a bitch scalloping a 145mm deep joist! Multitool, break off bits, drill, multitool  repeat.

 

?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

SWMBO wants 4 shelves in this cupboard. Towels on one, toiletries on another, cleaning products on one etc.

 

IMG_20190728_145038731

 

Can't decide whether to make a rolling shelf or "airing cupboard" style, slatted shelves. Just playing with ideas really:

 

20191124_103956

 

Not convinced about having clean towels above a (dirty) linen basket  in an enclosed cupboard! I think someone else mentioned the same thing previously.

 

As I'll want access later to the right hand side, to the loo roll holder mechanism etc, maybe I stop the shelves short if I go with battens on the wall and slats?

 

Rolling seems most sensible? Easy to move out to access everything else?

 

20191124_110621.thumb.jpg.48501625379f70b2e0720860926bc9ca.jpg

 

20191124_110609.thumb.jpg.ed99f214c15192ae1ec7d4df0564dc52.jpg

 

SWMBO insistent that the linen bin presents width wise when the door is open:

 

20191124_110804.thumb.jpg.edf3e61f4536c628c51fbc0a0a0b4c02.jpg

 

If I put the water softener in the cupboard that'll have to go width wise...not then easy to access itself:

 

20191124_110909.thumb.jpg.180b1dc4a014d48d4e08feb98f5e8d5e.jpg

 

20191124_110909.thumb.jpg.180b1dc4a014d48d4e08feb98f5e8d5e.jpg

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20 minutes ago, Onoff said:

SWMBO wants 4 shelves in this cupboard. Towels on one, toiletries on another, cleaning products on one etc.

 

IMG_20190728_145038731

 

Can't decide whether to make a rolling shelf or "airing cupboard" style, slatted shelves. Just playing with ideas really:

 

20191124_103956

 

Not convinced about having clean towels above a (dirty) linen basket  in an enclosed cupboard! I think someone else mentioned the same thing previously.

 

As I'll want access later to the right hand side, to the loo roll holder mechanism etc, maybe I stop the shelves short if I go with battens on the wall and slats?

 

Rolling seems most sensible? Easy to move out to access everything else?

 

20191124_110621.thumb.jpg.48501625379f70b2e0720860926bc9ca.jpg

 

20191124_110609.thumb.jpg.ed99f214c15192ae1ec7d4df0564dc52.jpg

 

SWMBO insistent that the linen bin presents width wise when the door is open:

 

20191124_110804.thumb.jpg.edf3e61f4536c628c51fbc0a0a0b4c02.jpg

 

If I put the water softener in the cupboard that'll have to go width wise...not then easy to access itself:

 

20191124_110909.thumb.jpg.180b1dc4a014d48d4e08feb98f5e8d5e.jpg

 

20191124_110909.thumb.jpg.180b1dc4a014d48d4e08feb98f5e8d5e.jpg

Yes ! The threads back alive !

Everything will be ok now , election , brexit - @Onoff saves us all !

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  • 2 months later...

Had an interesting play last night with a FLIR C3 thermography camera. I knew the principle but had never played with one.

 

Very interesting to see the "knock on" effects of my method of lining/levelling the walls even if expected. The vertical studs, sole and header plates show up as obvious "colder" bridges. I say colder as opposed to cold as I was aware of the potential for this just not to what degree and attempted, in my naivety to mitigate this. The studs are packed in between with PIR and all studs sit off the wall by a minimum of 5mm on packers with gun foam behind the studs. It certainly all helped but seeing the thermograpgy pictures it will influence my construction methods for future lining projects. By and large though the rooms heat signature looks like I thought it would.

 

SAM_2641

 

(What helps massively is the vapour barrier stopping draughts).

 

FLIR pics to follow. Clever bit of kit. You can download snapshots then later drag your mouse over the "still" and see the temperatures wherever the pointer is.

 

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34 minutes ago, Cpd said:

Not been keeping up with this thread.... did you buy, rent or borrow the C3 ? Useful bit of kit. What would you do next time to limit the cold bridging ? 

 

Borrowed. £500 out of my budget, I have to hold a wet finger up to gauge temperature etc! 

 

I imagine I'd stick insulated pb direct to the old walls and avoid the studs altogether. This is the plan when I do the knock through on the lounge/diner. Between the two rooms there is no common floor / ceiling level and the walls are not in line either. 

 

Not overly worried about the bathroom as there's a grand plan to go EWI and bring the cold loft above within a new, thermal envelope. Saying that, in the bathroom what I've done was possibly the right thing what with squaring the room up, hiding pipework, making pockets and supporting the wall hung wc.

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9 minutes ago, MJNewton said:

If the studs weren't in direct contact with the wall (ie even just a small air gap) might that help? 

That’s what I have done in my cottage, the only place the framework touches the walls is where I have put in the timber pegs /  nogs / dukes....(not sure correct terminology)  to secure the frame to, normally I have a gap of between a 20-50mm. One day I will have to use a thermal imaging camera to see if it made any significant difference. 

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