Nickfromwales Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 14 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: I've got a 3-way diverter sunk into the wall. Pics later. For your application you just tee the hot and cold outputs from each tap together and send the unified feed to the filler . Are the hot and cold to the bath tank fed at the mo ( no gravity / cold mains conflict ) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Can you get extension leads for the 4 core led cable off the bay? Then you can mount that with the bath gubbings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 13 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Are the hot and cold to the bath tank fed at the mo ( no gravity / cold mains conflict ) ? The currently available feeds are hot from the cylinder sitting at first floor level but the pipes come up from the cylinder then go across the top of the dormer and drop back down. Cold is fed from a 25gal cws tank that sits above the dormer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Both tank fed then No problem there then, and no need for NRV's. Just link out if / when you upgrade to an UVC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 By chance found this, I feel it would maybe SOLVE my problem of future access to replace at least the taps and allow me to put them wall side. Would mean using the standard mixer tap. Waste would be another issue if that craps out. It'd also mean the pump motor would be back being a bit inaccessible maybe: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bath-Mixer-Tap-Easy-Fix-Fast-Fit-Kit-Quick-Release-Fittings-Fixings-Chrome-Brass-/222134448329?hash=item33b83eb0c9:g:BvkAAOSw6btXRxWX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 9 hours ago, Onoff said: By chance found this, I feel it would maybe SOLVE my problem of future access to replace at least the taps and allow me to put them wall side. Would mean using the standard mixer tap. Waste would be another issue if that craps out. It'd also mean the pump motor would be back being a bit inaccessible maybe: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bath-Mixer-Tap-Easy-Fix-Fast-Fit-Kit-Quick-Release-Fittings-Fixings-Chrome-Brass-/222134448329?hash=item33b83eb0c9:g:BvkAAOSw6btXRxWX Much as I hate the use of flexi pipes for a fixed item (e.g their prolific use to connect the feed to wc cisterns) that does seem a very good solution. As long as the other end of the flexi is at an accessible position because I would personally deem a flexi pipe to have a finite life and one day need replacing. Does this explain why some baths come with over sized tap holes? And how waterproof will it be, e.g if you have a shower over the bath, will water drip underneath when someone is showering? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 If I go for these I'll seemingly have to open up the currently 38mm holes in the tub to the 42mm the adapters require. Some careful Starrett work required there then! No plan to have a shower attachment in the bath which tbh I think is maybe a mistake. Saying that it'll be easy to fit one if required later. Just then access to the pump motor to consider. The second picture on this thread shows the access to the motor. In theory it's "just" a case of undoing the two pipe couplings and loosening the M10 support stud. Not easy though maybr doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 In the 7 years I've had a whirlpool bath there hasn't been a single time I've needed to get to the motor - the use they get is negligible as they are never run for more than 15-20 minutes. Mine has probably been run for less than 100 hours in its lifetime ..! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 3 hours ago, PeterW said: In the 7 years I've had a whirlpool bath there hasn't been a single time I've needed to get to the motor - the use they get is negligible as they are never run for more than 15-20 minutes. Mine has probably been run for less than 100 hours in its lifetime ..! Kids (& wife) have to get over the novelty factor of 1) having a bath after so long and 2) the fact it's got jets and lights! That might give it a bashing to start with. Wondering if I should have a "dry run" and try and remove the pump to see how easy it will be if required later through the space available. Wonder if those in/out couplers just screw on with a rubber seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Just now, Onoff said: Wondering if I should have a "dry run" and try and remove the pump to see how easy it will be if required later through the space available. Wonder if those in/out couplers just screw on with a rubber seal? NO !!! Leave it alone as that way it won't leak !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 (edited) Where did October go FFS? Weekend working and uni visits, that's where! As you'll see from the video (stole the liitle 'un's tablet) the bathroom's coming along..... Before I put the bath in and board the walls I've got to run a couple of pipes from under the window, round the wall, out the doorway and ready to go under the floor of the stairs room to a manifold on the wall opposite the bathroom doorway that's under the stairs. What's best, just a couple of the same pipes as I used for the UFH? Not sure on the min bend radius? This is for the radiator / towel rail under the window (she wants a rad but I want a towel rail). At the end of the video I roughly place the demister pad box where the "rad" is going. Any thoughts? I presume I want to insulate the pipes if they go in the wall? Cheers Edited October 31, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Go for a towel rad, as a regular rad will just overheat the room imho. Your missus will be suitably impressed with the UFH, to a point where you can ask "cream or custard for your humble pie, dear?" . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Go for a towel rad, as a regular rad will just overheat the room imho. Your missus will be suitably impressed with the UFH, to a point where you can ask "cream or custard for your humble pie, dear?" . Ta. Her "concerns" are twofold; firstly that a towel rail "gets too hot" (seriously) and then that "they don't dry towels....again SERIOUSLY! I can sort of agree with the first one. In the upstairs an suite we have an old oil filled electric towel rail that came with the place. The surface temperature is beyond hot! We never have it on stemming from safety concerns when the kids were little. A while back it got switched on accidentally and I staggered against it in the dark one night burning my forearm. Upstairs there's probably a 1m wide alcove with the loo in. As you face the loo the oil towel rail is on your left. Sitting down it's on your right. In the wrong place for towels really, very unhygenic for reasons of "splashing" Thus we put the towels on the small rad up there instead. Similar space issues downstairs. Basin in front of you, towel rail to the left, end of the bath to your right. (The whole upstairs ensuite needs a revamp tbh but I don't dare start that!) As for the not drying towels bit....lost for words! What's the normal surface temperature these towel rails run at? I just think a traditional rad in the new bathroom will look dated and an eyesore. If then I treat the towel rail as a separate circuit off the UFH manifold I assume I can set a safe maximum temperature? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Why not just go for an electric towel rad with a runback controller? That way you can control the time on and heat level. Something like: http://www.dealec.co.uk/acatalog/dimplex-cpt-compact-towel-rails.html We had something similar in our last place, UFH kept the rooms nice and warm and so the only function of the towel radiator was to erm.....dry towels which they do just fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Tbh I'm trying to avoid an electric towel rail. I suppose though while I can I might as well run a bit of conduit round there to give me the option. The towel rail will be pretty close to the wet room corner i.e. right on the boundary and as we're going to try it without any form of screen etc..... I really want to do it off the manifold as a seperate"circuit". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 28 minutes ago, Onoff said: I really want to do it off the manifold as a seperate"circuit". Not sure the manifold will be hot enough - towel rail needs to be 48-55c or so to be effective, you'll end up at around 35c blended off the manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 @Onoff What's the temp range of that pump / blender you picked up off eBay? Btw, using a naff old dangerous towel rail as an example of how the new bathroom will be is a bit daft tbh . The downstairs towel rad will be as hot as you design it to be, so you just engineer the solution around the remit and then you'll get the desired result. Simples. As a reality check, get a towel and hang it on a coat hanger. Put that in a heated room and watch it dry all by itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 The TMV (?) says max inlet temp 65degC. Temp range 35-65degC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Bingo. Whack it on the towel rad and select the temp to suit your marital status Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 21 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Bingo. Whack it on the towel rad and select the temp to suit your marital status Didn't I get it though to run the UFH circuit in the bathroom off of the single pipe downstairs CH? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 That's the stop gap iirc, long term you'll be off the manifold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 2, 2016 Author Share Posted November 2, 2016 (edited) So is there a "stop gap" whereby I can run BOTH the UFH and towel rail in there? Short term of course..... Edited November 2, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Short term? ....,......... Just use a redundant UFH manifold port ( obviously you'll have to buy a manifold ) or put the UFH and TR in series for now off the unit you bought . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 2, 2016 Author Share Posted November 2, 2016 (edited) Well that didn't turn out quite how I'd planned.....really didn't think this one out! Just looks dog rough! Decided to see how easy it would be to run a couple of pipes within the dwarf wall to the "towel rail" position. First mistake was drilling the pipe holes (19mm) too far forward. This was to miss the 6x100 screws. Hindsight says I should have flipped the wall over and removed the screws! Of course the basin waste was in the way so I thought the pipe would easily bend round it. Either side of the waste I drilled those holes at an angle. This is btw a random bit of Hepworth PB.....figure what I used for the UFH (Pex-Al-Pex?) will be a bit more malleable. This PB is quite stiff..... And HTF do I get it around this corner WITHOUT putting a push fit elbow on it? I did drill the hole through the stud at an angle here too. Or do I just "lose" the stud there and remember to not drive a plasterboard screw through it? I can feel some nail plates coming on! EDIT: I'm going to fill the holes with some 18mm dowel rod, remove the screw and drill further back. Edited November 2, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 (edited) Onoff's a bit happier..... THOUGHT about it a bit more! Made a jig, redrilled the stud wall further back & got the multi tool out. Set back far enough so plasterboard screws should miss. Whacked in a couple of random lengths of pipe just to get a feel. MUCH straighter, neater: Worked it out so I can insulate the pipes too albeit with some 9mm wall stuff: Still got to figure the bend detail but I reckon with the Pex-Al-Pex it'll be easier. Got as far as taking a wedge out of the stud to aid "cornering". EDIT: Still need to fill the "wrong" holes with the 18mm dowel I bought Edited November 3, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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