Nickfromwales Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Deffo need sharp cutters . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Deffo need sharp cutters . Bought a £16 Rothenberger shear type pipe cutter. Harder work tbh than the slightly dulled (blue) Screwfix own brand one I've already got! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 I'll openly admit I've not had much experience of using this push fit stuff, especially the pipe. Trying to make it all look neat. The 3 valves will be behind a removable tile: Next to drill the stud wall to take the pipes to the sink and bath! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Just a tip, use copper pipe as the links etc so you avoid flexible pipe and inserts wherever possible Only use the pushfit pipe when you have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Just a tip, use copper pipe as the links etc so you avoid flexible pipe and inserts wherever possible Only use the pushfit pipe when you have to. Ta, how many demounting operations will these fittings stand? I've got the proper tool btw. Should I maybe then have used compression fitting valves instead of push fit? Got a bit carried away! Edited August 9, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I'd have used compression tbh, but nowt wrong with what youve got there. Just a tip to avoid inserts etc. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 I F*****G hate plumbing! Hats off to those who do it and do it well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 I know, it's so frustrating when you're a beginner. That said, despite doing very little of it, I found plumbing far more interesting than just about anything else on the build. I fully expected to enjoy to electrical side of things but found it a very dry topic (not like plumbing, which was a wet topic ) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 24 minutes ago, jack said: I know, it's so frustrating when you're a beginner. That said, despite doing very little of it, I found plumbing far more interesting than just about anything else on the build. I fully expected to enjoy to electrical side of things but found it a very dry topic (not like plumbing, which was a wet topic ) Driving me nuts tbh. I guess it's an experience thing but I'm off to find a couple on Neurofen in a minute! Trying to think ahead, minimising joints where inaccessible etc. It's; unwrap the sink, unwrap the pedestal, loosley position to gauge everything. That done put the sink and pedestal back in their boxes. Then realise I'm not sure if the planned removable tile will clash with the pedestal. At the same time thinking maybe the tile above will be better but will that clash with the sink? So, mark the tile positions on the studs; unwrap the sink etc again. Then the waste, do I lengthen the waste or shorten the tails? Every step something new. Dry fitting and taking apart all the time is a pita! Still I want it to look good in the end and be something to be proud of. (Ditched the push fit valves btw and going soldered copper and bends where I can). I'm sure I'll look back and laugh..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 No doubt experience will tell you the answers to all these questions. My best guess is that you'll have enough experience to know just as you finish the house! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 6 minutes ago, jack said: No doubt NICK experience will tell you the answers to all these questions. .....or do I try and put a set in the tails? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Going to the pub! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Pub didn't work. Rethinking access, positions of sink / bath isolation valves etc..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 3 hours ago, Onoff said: Pub didn't work. Maybe try again to be sure? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 On 10 August 2016 at 13:33, Onoff said: .....or do I try and put a set in the tails? Use the force , Luke............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Use the force , Luke............ How about these and have the hot & cold to the sink coming horizontally through the wall in 15mm copper? http://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-push-fit-flexible-monobloc-tap-connectors-15mm-x-m10mm-x-300mm-2-pack/2043f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 That's what I normally do. Can't find a pic though Ok, a suggestion....Can you get into the attic above where the copper pipe work goes up into? If so can you put the isolation a up there? Secondly, is that a full bore ballofix on the CWS fed supply? For the exercise of finishing the bathroom, could you not fit these isolations up high and tile so far, then when all is up and running, drain down, cut them out and reinstate the supply without them thus negating the access panel? The isolations for the basin can go under it eg have the 15mm copper coming out horizontally as you say, then put ballofixes on immediately. Then fit these type of flexis which have female ends which can go directly onto the ballofix valve and pig tail the flexis so you can't see them. In my house I ran the pipe work in the floor and brought them up inside the footprint of the pedestal and zip-tied the flex to the waste so they're gently pulled tight and out of sight. That left the walls clear for tiling with no penetrations. My opinion is that you should ditch the wall access panel and relocate those isolations above. If / when you change to an UVC, it'll be quicker to turn off the mains water supply and drain down the hot and colds than it took me to write this . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 (edited) Loft is a blank canvas pretty much in the hipped roof end above the new bathroom ceiling. You can see the x3 15mm pipes coming up within the bundle of Cat-5: Still a lot of tidying to do up there with respect to existing "plumbing" (and wiring). Have to consider it carefully as we're toying with changing the roof to gable ends. The pipe with the x2 gate valves is the cold feed from the 25 gallon cws tank above the dormer. It comes down the dormer wall and goes left to feed the upstairs wc and upstairs bathroom basin, I capped it off with the push fit where it used to feed to downstairs bathroom I'm currently doing. The hot feed from the cylinder is the low down, horizontal one from the (red) ball valve at the mo that just feeds the upstairs basin sink. EDIT: All the ballofix valves are good quality, full bore ones, Edited August 12, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 No reason to have isolation in the bathroom then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: No reason to have isolation in the bathroom then Just that if the eaves becomes a room any isolation will be bound to be behind/ under something! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 No, it'll be boxed in in the attic with a removable panel which is easier, quicker and imho more desirable than trying to make a tiled access panel in the bathroom wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 HAPPY...ish... No soldered joints just bending and offsetting, one down: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 That's the hammer . Stick with me, kid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 (edited) Is there an issue with having the hot feed 15mm copper to the bathroom basin physically touching the cold (mains) feed? It theoretically shouldn't according to the CAD but with my bending etc. Thinking noise potential and condensation. Option to wrap in Denso where they pass thru the dwarf stud wall or sleeve with something. Cheers, Actually I will have to have a soldered joint somewhere, I've got to tee off of that hot feed for the bath..... Edited August 13, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 (edited) Cold bath feed bent, cranked and in. Tbh wish I'd made it a bit nearer over to the multi-tool! I'll go from here to a bit of that Hep2O PB to the bath filler /taps. Might put an access panel on the end of the bath to get to these connections. Next, the last one, the bath hot to figure off of the sink feed. Will re-position the clips too here and there: EDIT: Debating re-doing the hot feed to the sink so I can more neatly incorporate a tee off for the bath. And again might re-do the cold to the bath so it's further over to the right. I feel like I'm getting somewhere though! Edited August 13, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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