Onoff Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) I can't recommend enough doing a semi sunken bath. The pocket in the floor is ideal for sweeping sawdust and other rubbish into whilst building. There is of course the trip hazard / twisted ankle issue to consider (especially when partially covered by an out of place Correx sheet) but all in all it's a winner! Edited November 5, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 (edited) Bottled cutting the soil pipe outside so stayed in and cracked on with getting the VCL on one wall. Had to cut it to fit round the pipes but made a bit of a hash of cutting and taping! Dwarf wall screwed on with 6x150s so don't really want to take that off! What's the score with this air tightness business of it's not 100%? Not really sure what I'm going for tbh! For instance where the copper pipes come out through the VCL is there any particular "tape" I can press around where they exit? What btw is the recommended spacing for plasterboard screws (200mm?). Bought a couple of boxes cheap from Lidl of all places. Edited November 5, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 I've always spaced my plasterboard screws at roughly 300mm. No idea if that's 'standard' but nothing's ever fallen off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 48 minutes ago, Barney12 said: I've always spaced my plasterboard screws at roughly 300mm. No idea if that's 'standard' but nothing's ever fallen off Ta. I work better multiplying by 2 tbh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 There are different rules for screw spacings . If your just skimming then 300mm would be fine, but when your tiling and there is a certain kg/p/m2 loading then you need much more purchase. I'd go no less than 120mm centres. Stud centres for kitchens & bathrooms must be at no less than 400mm, NOT the 600mm permissible for 'other' rooms. Screws are so cheap there really is no excuse not to go for more, even if that's above the 'standard'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) You mean 120mm maximum? Wow! That close? The beer is sitting in what will be the lit recess alongside the bath. This dwarf wall will be tiled up to and atop the narrow shelf that runs the length of the wall. Pre tiling this will all be (moisture resistant) plasterboarded. A faux pas, there's no batten behind where I'm pointing. The nearest is where the green line is to the right. It is well supported behind and can't go back because of the PIR there. Is there anything "in a tube" I could run round the internal corners before pushing the plasterboard in? Above the long shelf it's going to painted probably in a "bold" colour. Going to chance taping & jointing then sanding everything rather than plastering. That's a lot of filling at 120mm centres! (For some reason my Flickr links don't seem to be showing as pictures, just links?) Edited November 6, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) I think you need to use the bbcode from the share link on Flickr. Trying....... Yep that works. Edited November 6, 2016 by Barney12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) Ta. The two pics that wouldn't show, I sneaked a use of the wife's camera. I uploaded them to Flickr in the same way as usual and grabbed the same link type. Weird! Just taken a couple more on my phone. So where the plasterboard edge doesn't have a batten behind I was thinking to use a generic "no nails". Thoughts? I see taking / uploading from the phone works.....just gone back to the post above and put in the links for the wife's camera photos but done it via my phone! Edited November 6, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 If there isn't much flex you could always put some scrim tape into that corner junction. Then once you put tile adhesive over it it will tie the corner in. A bit of no nails can't hurt either I guess. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 Good shout on the scrim in the corners pre tiling! Nice to nearly have a corner of the room again: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundtuit Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Pleased to see levels are spot on. Nothing worse than a false indication of how much beer's left in the bottle! ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 6 minutes ago, Roundtuit said: Pleased to see levels are spot on. Nothing worse than a false indication of how much beer's left in the bottle! ? The Amstel in the picture is more of a prop. It's a full bottle but Amstel gives me a headache.....it never used to in Corfu but back then the bottles were brown! I had a bottle of Ginger Grizzly just now..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 So.....back to the bath surround: Not sure whether to do this strip that comes up from the 3/4" marine ply deck to the recess in plasterboard or 1/2" marine ply? I've got both. It'll be tiled over. I can easily enough add something to screw the bottom of the strip to: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 You 100% deffo need that additional fillet to secure it along the length. Fwiw, I'd do it in ply not PB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 (edited) 8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: You 100% deffo need that additional fillet to secure it along the length. Fwiw, I'd do it in ply not PB. Ta. Is there any difference in recommended method for sticking tiles to ply vs moisture resistant plasterboard? A one product suits all would be good. Thinking about this though didn't you ages ago suggest ordinary silicon to bond tiles to ply? Also at the "joins" between vertical / horizontal boards is it wise to run a bead of something even if there is a batten behind? CT1 seems a bit costly for that job but I don't mind. I'm thinking a cheap silicon might not fit the bill. Going belt & braces! Good old Gripfill I'm wondering as it's waterproof. http://www.screwfix.com/p/gripfill-grab-adhesive-350ml-12-pack/45901 Edited November 7, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 Need to make some permanent "feet" with minimal packing. This was just for levelling Thinking that a lump of "proper" timber as shown might eventually split. Considering a stack of marine ply discs cut out with a Starrett cutter..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 I'd go with ofcuts of ply or OSB. Both have good compression strength and won't split. As for circles, if you've got the time !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Don't use gripfill. Use sikaflex. Gripfill skins over too quickly, and requires lateral movement when using as a grab adhesive to 'break' the two beads into each other ( never just apply it to one surface ). Fwiw I haven't bought a tube of GF for as long as I can remember. Sikaflex is just so much better and doesn't dry 'brittle' like GF does. I personally can't stand the stuff and only use Pink-grip when I need to bond stuff if I ever need zero movement, as above I bond both surfaces and agitate with a spreader / similar seconds before mating the two surfaces. One example of where I used it was that wall hung WC where I framed the stud wall with 100x50mm box steel and I bonded the steel to the wood. After sliding the two against each other, post application of PG, it was claimped and left to cure. I cant see anywhere now where you should be using a solvent product such as GF or PG so please ditch that and switch to Sikaflex ?. Also using SF for the tile fixing onto the ply would be better than silicone, but silicone will suffice. Don't even consider using flexible tile adhesive on the boxing / framing as it will last about a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: please ditch that and switch to Sikaflex Good source at reasonable price then @Nickfromwales ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 Ta. Lots of numbers to choose from with that Sikaflex...EBT..221.....??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 1 hour ago, PeterW said: Good source at reasonable price then @Nickfromwales ..? £5.50 per tube to the door Ebay to the rescue 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Ta. Lots of numbers to choose from with that Sikaflex...EBT..221.....??? EBT for my jobs, the others are more marine / exterior specific hence their prices. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 10 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: £5.50 per tube to the door Ebay to the rescue Have ordered some, thanks mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: ?? Sikaflex ordered from your link. Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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