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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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A great philosopher once wrote; "Naught..", Sorry, wrong thread! :)

 

Anyway, he said on the lines that "everything focuses on the bath". So this will mean the inset panel:

 

20170816_140335

 

It's 430mm between faces of mrpb. I marked the centreline, 215mm up:

 

2017-08-16_01-52-21

 

So in trying to plan this I figure a line projected around the room is the way to go.

 

Laser mounted in the wet room corner:

 

20170816_140156

 

And nudged until I hit the marked line (just under):

 

20170816_140232

 

Pretty happy it's the same both sides, says something for my manual methods with a level up until now. I'll nudge until the laser is dead centre on the line before marking the wall:

 

20170816_140255

 

So I'm now going to project this line all round the room as a datum.

 

Which brings me onto tiling!

 

I acquired this bad boy, a picture framing guillotine. As sharp as a sharp thing and really heavy duty:

 

20170816_120857

 

Because of a nick in the blade I had to pack the work piece up a bit but it cuts tile trim nicely:

 

 

20170816_123114

 

I'm happy enough with this fit I think (actually looks worse than it is):

 

20170816_134249

 

But wtf do I start in attaching this trim? The trims are 10mm (actually 11mm o/a height). This for 8mm tiles. I know I need to use mitre bond. But how do you keep the runs of trim straight? Only thing I can think is to set it against a 10mm pack?

 

20170816_133505

 

Oh' and I'm thinking to tank this pocket before I stick any trims on?

 

EDIT: Holy crap! Looks like this is a MORSO guillotine, the price of blades!!!

Edited by Onoff
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I don't fit the trims until I've tiled the wall, leaving the pockets until last. Tiling the vertical wall to the trim is very hard as you don't know exactly how much adhesive you'll have so therefore don't know how far out to set the trim. 

Also, doing it in that order means any offcuts can be used for the pockets ( less wastage ). 

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18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

I don't fit the trims until I've tiled the wall, leaving the pockets until last. Tiling the vertical wall to the trim is very hard as you don't know exactly how much adhesive you'll have so therefore don't know how far out to set the trim. 

Also, doing it in that order means any offcuts can be used for the pockets ( less wastage ). 

 

That's why you get paid the big bucks! :)

 

Makes things easier though. So tiles on first then trims with the "flag pole" into the pocket as shown? Same with window reveals?

 

Will "tanking" (it's a liquid right?) allow tiling straight onto it?

 

Can I tank straight onto ply? (Appreciate if tiling direct it's better to silicon tiles onto ply).

 

In those pockets should I be using a tanking "scrim" to reinforce the corners?

 

Told you they'd come thick and fast!

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Yes to the trim orientation and same for windows. Get all walls done and all pocket trims done, THEN tile the pockets. 

 

For the shower pocket yes to the scrim. I'll see how much spare I've got and post it to you. Beware going nuts with it as it adds 2-3mm as you just can't get it perfectly flat on both axis. ( You probably will as your even more OCD than me :D but I'm trying to make money too don't forget ). For the other pockets, I'd just roller a few ( 3-4 ) coats of tanking solution on and then you can stick all the tiles on with powder adhesive. Anywhere you want to tile and it's plywood just tank it so you don't have to use silicone. Far easier and belt n braces too. 

 

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12 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Yes to the trim orientation and same for windows. Get all walls done and all pocket trims done, THEN tile the pockets. 

 

For the shower pocket yes to the scrim. I'll see how much spare I've got and post it to you. Beware going nuts with it as it adds 2-3mm as you just can't get it perfectly flat on both axis. ( You probably will as your even more OCD than me :D but I'm trying to make money too don't forget ). For the other pockets, I'd just roller a few ( 3-4 ) coats of tanking solution on and then you can stick all the tiles on with powder adhesive. Anywhere you want to tile and it's plywood just tank it so you don't have to use silicone. Far easier and belt n braces too. 

 

 

Ta. Tbh I reckon the shower pockets will get wetter than this long, bath side pocket. As for the pocket above the wc, well if that gets wet someone's aim is really off! :)

 

More questions in a while when I get  this line all round where I can (had to break off for a pc related problem with the boy).

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9 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Ta. Tbh I reckon the shower pockets will get wetter than this long, bath side pocket. As for the pocket above the wc, well if that gets wet someone's aim is really off! :)

 

More questions in a while when I get  this line all round where I can (had to break off for a pc related problem with the boy).

Don't take the first line as gospel. Hold a tile above it / below it and start looking for micro rips ( 50mm or less ) and try shifting the datum up / down to rid you of these. 

Check window heads and cills, last tile against floor and ceiling ( making sure you have a cut tile against each, more so for the floor as you'll need to run down into the shower 'well'. I'll spend a half day sometimes on a line out, but you can see in seconds when it's not been done with enough commitment :/

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7 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Don't take the first line as gospel. Hold a tile above it / below it and start looking for micro rips ( 50mm or less ) and try shifting the datum up / down to rid you of these. 

Check window heads and cills, last tile against floor and ceiling ( making sure you have a cut tile against each, more so for the floor as you'll need to run down into the shower 'well'. I'll spend a half day sometimes on a line out, but you can see in seconds when it's not been done with enough commitment :/

 

Lost me, the bit in red???

 

You mean the first LASER line?

Edited by Onoff
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There is no point setting an arbitrary line round, then starting tiling and finding you need a 50mm sliver to finish at the top/bottom when you could have simply moved the line up/down 50mm at the planning stage.

 

Why mark a line then paint tanking liquid over it, you won't see it!?

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17 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

 

There is no point setting an arbitrary line round, then starting tiling and finding you need a 50mm sliver to finish at the top/bottom when you could have simply moved the line up/down 50mm at the planning stage.

 

 

What he said :) Worse still a 10mm rip. :(  

 

17 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

Why mark a line then paint tanking liquid over it, you won't see it!?

I always do that first so all the scribbles get tanked over. Then with the final datum marked ( on the door frame / other spot not being tanked ) you then re-mark the room with nice clean walls. Eliminates the "bollocks, that's not the line I'm meant to be tiling to" accident.   

Edited by Nickfromwales
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2 hours ago, bassanclan said:

There is no point setting an arbitrary line round, then starting tiling and finding you need a 50mm sliver to finish at the top/bottom when you could have simply moved the line up/down 50mm at the planning stage.

 

Why mark a line then paint tanking liquid over it, you won't see it!?

 

Very far from an arbitrary line. Considered a long tome ago on CAD! The idea was to have a 250 high tile dead centre of the bath pocket:

 

 

side.JPG.4acf63d914b2bffba2d747ba6e5ba8ed.JPG

 

So far it seems to work out pretty much as expected. The oddity here is I have a ceiling height about 2470mm high so I'll have to have a "strip" up at the ceiling. With hindsight, lower ceiling! :) Was half thinking of a border tile either along the top or mid way up the wall:

 

IMG_20170816_172223176

 

And the cut tile along the base means I have no issue tile height wise when it falls to the shower corner:

 

IMG_20170816_172231315

 

EDIT: "Accuracy".....I've gone over the laser line with a fine black Sharpie for the datum line. Would I be better this line being in (a sharp) pencil or Biro?

 

Do I go around marking  horizontal tile lines on all the walls up/down from the datum as a guide?

 

Cheers

 

And where do I start tiling from? 

Edited by Onoff
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3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Buying online after drinking is never a good idea. Last year a mate of mine bought 10 (yes ten) 6ft talking Christmas trees after a pre Christmas trip to the pub. He had no recollection of buying them until DPD turned up :) Only when checking his emails did he accept they were for him!! 

 

However, that kit seems to look OK. Hard to tell the quality from a few pictures though. 

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6 minutes ago, Barney12 said:

 

Buying online after drinking is never a good idea. Last year a mate of mine bought 10 (yes ten) 6ft talking Christmas trees after a pre Christmas trip to the pub. He had no recollection of buying them until DPD turned up :) Only when checking his emails did he accept they were for him!! 

 

However, that kit seems to look OK. Hard to tell the quality from a few pictures though. 

 

Read some good reviews ref the Everbuild over the Mapei kit mainly that it seems to do the same thing but cheaper. Not the cheapest for the 7.5m kit but better feedback. 

 

Think they have a 6 month shelf life is the only thing and you need to check that.

 

6 months.....pushing it! :)

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2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Read some good reviews ref the Everbuild over the Mapei kit mainly that it seems to do the same thing but cheaper. Not the cheapest for the 7.5m kit but better feedback. 

 

Think they have a 6 month shelf life is the only thing and you need to check that.

 

6 months.....pushing it! :)

 

It was all going so well until you mentioned the 6 month bit!! :) 

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Thought I'd see what it would look like NOT putting a horizontal tile on the centre line of the bath pocket: Plotted tiles on another vertical line by the door way. Better at the top in terms on no tiny rip but at the bottom nom 265mm to the slab. Would work here and most areas by the time the floor gets tiled but maybe NOT in the wet room corner where I need 13 to 26mm lower than FFL to get my falls for the wall drain: 

 

2017-08-16_09-21-12

 

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If you use the right hand layout of tiles, how they work out in the pocket shelf? There might be some fussy slivers there, but otherwise it looks good.

 

A border tile or listello trim all round thing might help you to get rid of that tiny sliver if you prefer the left hand layout

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7 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

I found this old photo showing how you can use metal tile trim to run a line around the whole room, breaking up the tiles and giving you an extra few mm

WP_20151214_20_50_48_Pro.jpg

 

SWMBO is very anti "metal" tile trim. Wants white PVC so she can bleach it! :(

 

Wouldn't let me have the bath taps I wanted either!

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Used them a good few times ?  Good kit and no complaints, cheap enough too. 

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Tbh I'm likely to want to be "standing" on the bath area so will knock up something heavy duty...that takes 3 people to lift! :)

 

Glad though I can lift the bath up a bit thanks to the flexible pipes and waste. Will make it much easier to pack under the feet & tile under the bath lip

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43 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Beware standing on the corners. A mate came to cove a bathroom for me 'to speed things along'. Cost me £760 and 6 weeks delay when he stepped on the corner and took the f****r clean off. 

 

The sort of help you DON'T need! :) How you laughed about it later I bet!

 

Wishing I hadn't drawn on the walls now in permanent marker here planning these tiles! 

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