Onoff Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 34 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: For the very worst of reasons I have 10 bags (1 tonne rubble bags) of Celotex, all in 250ml blocks going free. Put them through a chipper. I'd like to think they will not become landfill. If only I were closer, I'd have taken a bin bag's worth! I too have probably one jumbo bags worth of the stuff in odd chunks. Sawing it's bad enough, I can't imagine the irritation all round if chipped. I always find it smells too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Exp Foam does nothing for sound deadening. The black sound deadening mat that you get from car ICE merchants may be better on the soil, but I don't think it'll be an issue tbh, plus it's a bit late in the day for the soil pipe? Maybe a sheet of this behind the WC to absorb the brief flush noise? The filling isn't noisy at all if you've some flow suppression inline ( only required if you've got a really nasty cold mains ) but as you have a PRedV it should be OK as is. They're really quite quiet when filling up . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: You wouldn't say that if you were tiling it Yeah, but I'm not, so ARCH IT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 14 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Exp Foam does nothing for sound deadening. The black sound deadening mat that you get from car ICE merchants may be better on the soil, but I don't think it'll be an issue tbh, plus it's a bit late in the day for the soil pipe? Maybe a sheet of this behind the WC to absorb the brief flush noise? The filling isn't noisy at all if you've some flow suppression inline ( only required if you've got a really nasty cold mains ) but as you have a PRedV it should be OK as is. They're really quite quiet when filling up . Hmmm...my PRedV, that packed up a while back. Just reads at max / bends the needle all the time. Pressure does drop when you turn something on but shoots back up. Can't seem to adjust it anymore either. Need to clean it first I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Yup. You know you have to adjust it with at least a little water flowing through it, yea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 11 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Yup. You know you have to adjust it with at least a little water flowing through it, yea? Um....pretty sure I did. I'll check it's not clogged first as it DID work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 So I took the plunge and whacked a 44mm hole throgh the top of the cistern to take a 32mm solvent weld fitting. This for the future take off. All nutted up with CT1 as out of Sika: Next a bit more ply: And another bit: And the Aquapanel: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 You mean you've done FOUR jobs today on the bathroom..??! Not feeling well...?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Looking good. Now don't stop !!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 How did you finish the "celing" of the alcove @Nickfromwales did you leave it as is or tile? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 8 hours ago, bassanclan said: How did you finish the "celing" of the alcove @Nickfromwales did you leave it as is or tile? Pics to follow. . Tiled and holes cut for accent lighting. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 9 hours ago, PeterW said: You mean you've done FOUR jobs today on the bathroom..??! Not feeling well...?? Daughter's got two friends down for the weekend so it's a hiding place! None of it's screwed on of course! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 Rev the 32mm take off I'm routing up into the loft in solvent weld..... The "L" shaped bit I've got my hand on, should I be "siliconing" that on as well as the 6 screws. As in to make it as sealed as possible for extracting the wc "fumes"? Lucky I went into the loft as I found this: Mains into the house used to be from the left and this 15mm run was just to the cloak. I moved the incoming mains bringing it up in the cloak so mains feed is right to left now through this pipe / valve . Nothing backing off and a bit of Jet Blue Plus won't sort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 Pointless siliconing that TBH as the flush plate isn't airtight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 12 hours ago, bassanclan said: How did you finish the "celing" of the alcove @Nickfromwales did you leave it as is or tile? In the words of Paul Daniels....... ......."That's magic!" Grouted shots to follow. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Pointless siliconing that TBH as the flush plate isn't airtight. Ta. It was this thread I was thinking of where there was talk of sealing things up: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 It won't do any harm, so I'll shut my mouth Just there's such a good path down the flush pipe it's not going to pull much through any higher resistance paths imo. All you need now is a 'displacement meter' in the pan to gauge the fan speed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: It won't do any harm, so I'll shut my mouth Just there's such a good path down the flush pipe it's not going to pull much through any higher resistance paths imo. All you need now is a 'displacement meter' in the pan to gauge the fan speed I just figured if I'm drawing in "smell", if that bit is sealed I'll only be drawing in from the empty flush pipe down to the pan and via the flush plate. Otherwise I'd be drawing in from the cavity where the frame sits too. That it's drawing in from the flush plate can't be a bad thing as that's right above where the smell's coming from anyway! Tidying up / adding foam. I'll admit I actually used a bit of CARDBOARD up against the frame on the right so the foam didn't encroach. Should all flush off nice and neat. Measurements in green marker from ceiling and walls to ctr of studs so I'll know what's there when it's all covered up. One annoyance I've noted. There's two M8 coach bolts that affix the frame either side. The bottom left, roughly in line with the bottom of the cistern (red 'X') passes right through one of the M10 stud holes. If I put the nut on the screw won't go in, If I put the screw in the nut won't go on! Tbh the screw isn't biting anyway. Thinking to put the screw in then nut up tight against it. That M8 fixing would then be at least captive and in shear??? And lastly, not done one of these before. What do I need to do in the cistern before boarding? Only two hose connections to make isn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 That's the beauty of the geberit mate, you don't need to do anything before boarding as you can do it all afterwards . Just make the flexible hose off to the isolation tap and the float / fill valve and pressure test them as it's a bit easier to do now. Hold the float up, open the iso, let it equalise, check for leaks and shut it back off. Saves filling the cistern unnecessarily. I'd sort the PRedV first TBH as you don't want to damage any of the components. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 (edited) 17 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: That's the beauty of the geberit mate, you don't need to do anything before boarding as you can do it all afterwards . Just make the flexible hose off to the isolation tap and the float / fill valve and pressure test them as it's a bit easier to do now. Hold the float up, open the iso, let it equalise, check for leaks and shut it back off. Saves filling the cistern unnecessarily. I'd sort the PRedV first TBH as you don't want to damage any of the components. . You mean with real WATER? And what, flush into a bucket? @Nickfromwales, to test & without the wc pan on, could I: Insert the flush pipe then run a "U" shaped piece of say 55mm twin wall duct from that into the poo pipe/soil run? Cheers. Before I do that I need to sort the feed out. Couldn't have got it more wrong drilling up into the loft for that 32mm stench take off: Was going to go up where the blue spray foam is showing behind the cut away Celotex. Re-routing it now. Going to go through where is says "752" and up the other side thru the "1255" marked noggin: Edited July 23, 2017 by Onoff Question added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 (edited) @Nickfromwales, a long. long time ago I think it was you who said if considering a UVC/TS in the future I might want to upgrade the mains through the house from 15 to 22mm? Getting a mains feed to this Geberit now and I reckon I should start upping the 15mm to 22 at least where I am working at the mo. So the 25mm MDPE comes in the corner of the cloak here: The 22/15/15 T atop the PRedV goes to 15mm up tru the coving: In the loft it comes up thru the p'board, has a bit of a kink: Then runs straight, right to left: So this pipe is now mains in whereas before it was just a feed to the cloak. The ball valve, top left above & below, is now pretty much redundant. To the left of that ball valve, in shadow its looks like this: So it used to be mains coming in from the bathroom below, coming into the tee and going off right to the cloak and carrying straight on up (over the dormer, don't ask) to the rest of the house. This is where the mains came up in the corner of the bathroom next to where it's written 2395 on the wall: My plan WAS simply to cut and whack an elbow on that 15mm pipe coming down and take it across to the Geberit. Thinking now though to replace that whole run in 22mm. Tee off in 15 down to the Geberit and reuse that ball valve for local isolation of the wc in the back of the cupboard. Sound like a plan? That way I've got the start of my 22mm in for the future. At the same time I can strip and clean that PRedV. Edited July 29, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Yup. Sounds good. The WC's in particular shouldn't affect the flow to the shower, so getting as much of the cold 'backbone' in 22mm is the way forward. Once you've cleared the bathrooms I'd drop back to 15mm for any runs that then terminate at a single outlet. A flow restrictor(s) on the cloakroom bog and taps may be a big help too, as you want to preserve as much pressure / flow when showering as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 13 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Yup. Sounds good. The WC's in particular shouldn't affect the flow to the shower, so getting as much of the cold 'backbone' in 22mm is the way forward. Once you've cleared the bathrooms I'd drop back to 15mm for any runs that then terminate at a single outlet. A flow restrictor(s) on the cloakroom bog and taps may be a big help too, as you want to preserve as much pressure / flow when showering as possible. Ta. I'd need to put any flow restrictor in the short run (first pic, my last post) that the outside tap feed saddles over. At the mo the shower is pumped from CWS / HWC. I can carry on then and do the restrictor later. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) Well the 9mm packing ply seems to have worked. The soil pipe has pretty much disappeared and the Aquapanel will sail over it: The Geberit wall drain's going to be fun! Some careful adapting of the studwork there I think. Might have to reverse the 50mm waste and bring it out to the right then shift the drain left where there's more depth to get the drain in (old doorway I think) and some nominal insulation behind. Might have to rethink the mitred wall corner. It was all meant for a corner wall drain to start with. The Seven P's! Edited July 30, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 Debating whether to loose fill this "cavity" with EPS packing chips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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