length of screw

[Tom]

Right, really stupid question coming up, but for the life of me I just can't make a decision on these. Perhaps it's because everything seems to be going t*ts up with our build and I want to at least get something right! So, we are having wood cladding on part of it - reusing the old boards from the barn. They're approx 150x20mm and will be fixed to standard batten (50x25mm). I want to use screws to fix them on and like the look of these:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p36869

 

but they are 49mm long, which will mean they will pass through the batten completely - by a good 4mm. You won't see it of course, bit I will know...

 

There is a shorter one at 45mm:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-torx-screw/p49111

 

Apart from the length, what is the difference between the two? Other than the shorter one being more expensive? They are both SS but seem to be called different things. At 45mm they will still prbably just poke through too.

 

There is an even shorter one, at 32mm:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p25702

 

but of course that would only leave about 12mm in the batten. Is that enough?

 

I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

 

Can anyone put me out of my misery?

I realise there are bigger things to worry about in life, but hey ho...

 

PS The wife keeps telling me she wants a longer screw, but looks a bit blank when I start talking about cladding 🧐

 

 

[Mr Punter]

What is behind the batten?  If you are lapping the boards you will need a much longer fixing.  If it is timber behind the batten, go 50mm or so.  You may find this quicker with stainless ring nails and maybe a nail gun with a no mar tip.

[jack]

29 minutes ago, Tom said:

Apart from the length, what is the difference between the two? Other than the shorter one being more expensive? They are both SS but seem to be called different things. At 45mm they will still prbably just poke through too.

 

Looking at the manufacturer's code in the tech spec drop-down, I'd be surprised if there's any difference other than length:

 

 

 

Odd that they're described so differently.

[markc]

You probably get a driver bit with the more expensive ones.

tongue tight are great for hidden fixing but easily pull themselves through timber if you are not careful

Edited July 14, 2022 by markc

[Pocster]

Sorry , mis interpreted the title .

[PeterW]

Screws aren’t great for cladding - ring shank nails are the norm. What is behind the batten..? 

[Tom]

14 minutes ago, PeterW said:

What is behind the batten..? 

Counter batten - membrane - Nudura ICF

 

Ring shank nails are just an arse to get out and tend to take half the plank with them, which is why I was thinking screws TBH.

[Tom]

2 hours ago, jack said:

 

Looking at the manufacturer's code in the tech spec drop-down, I'd be surprised if there's any difference other than length:

 

 

 

Odd that they're described so differently.

 

And why would the shorter be more expensive?

[Russell griffiths]

Would depend on the finish you want, as you said you a re using wood I would think your going for a rustic look. 

I have used those screws and they are too pretty to be on show, very shiny and will not suit a rustic look. 

Ring shank nails either hand driven or nail gun, if the nail gun is going in too Dee then you haven’t adjusted it properly. 

Or I would go for a decking screw, but you will struggle to find them that short. 

My neighbour has just done a big barn with galv screws so he can remove a plank if he needs to. 

Really depends on look and timber pattern. 

[Tom]

Thanks Russel - we're not going for too rustic tbh so perhaps they will fit in, and I would definitely like the option of removing a board later on if needed. Guess I'll go for the 45mm one unless you think a 12mm "bite" from the shorter 32mm screw would be sufficient?

[andy]

16 hours ago, PeterW said:

Screws aren’t great for cladding - ring shank nails are the norm. What is behind the batten..? 

 

Having fitted about 4,000 (and counting...) stainless steel Spax screws I'd disagree @PeterW!  No way I'd go with nailing but it may depend on your desired finish/ability to easily remove.

 

I'm using these:

https://www.spax.com/uk/products/stainless-steel/facade/facade-screw-45-x-60-mm-100-pieces-fixing-thread-raised-countersunk-head-t-star-plus-t20-4cut-stainless-steel-a2-25470004506022/pid-2448/

 

 

[Russell griffiths]

17 minutes ago, Tom said:

Thanks Russel - we're not going for too rustic tbh so perhaps they will fit in, and I would definitely like the option of removing a board later on if needed. Guess I'll go for the 45mm one unless you think a 12mm "bite" from the shorter 32mm screw would be sufficient?

32mm defo too short.  needs to be. 45mm. 

[saveasteading]

Had to strip 70m2 once as the timber shrank so much. Wish we had used screws.

Unless the screw point is going to puncture a membrane  then the longer will be better. Quite a few mm at the tip will not contribute to the fixing.

[Roundtuit]

I used those 45mm tongue tite screws for our cladding on to 25mm battens over blockwork.  Anything sticking out of the back of the batten just screws into the blockwork. Screw heads are just below the cladding surface and barely visible at 5 paces.

[Thorfun]

5 hours ago, Tom said:

Thanks Russel - we're not going for too rustic tbh so perhaps they will fit in, and I would definitely like the option of removing a board later on if needed. Guess I'll go for the 45mm one unless you think a 12mm "bite" from the shorter 32mm screw would be sufficient?

If you’re going for the tongue tite screws you can get them online much cheaper than Toolstation. I got mine for our cladding from https://tradefixdirect.com/stainless-steel-screws/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-flooring-screws-35-x-45mm

 

[Tom]

Good spot 👍